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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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arkansas newbie

I just purchased a 2001 and have a question.. I had it out on my first drive of any distance and it died on me. We were able to jump it off and I got back to the house. I put it on a trickle charger and its been fine since. I bought it this past Wednesday and its been on the road once every day since but not on the charger until this incident. After it charged up, my voltmeter showed all to be ok. I dont know how long it sat without being on a charger at the previous owner. I didnt think it would go completely dead while riding as it did. Could there be a problem elsewhere??

Also.. where is a good outlet for floorboards and/or luggage racks

Thanks in advance

PD
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 01:47 AM
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Welcome. How does the bike run? If it runs and idles good, I wouldn't worry about it, it could be a bad battery unless you just replaced it. If it is a new battery or known good battery and went dead, I'd check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at about 3000 rpm. You should get close to 14V. If it is much less, you have charging system problems. Hopefully not the stator. If the bike runs rough, it probably has dirty carbs from sitting too long. Since it does run, I'd try a strong dose of Seafoam before taking the carbs off to clean them, it is not a fun job.

As for floorboards and a luggage rack, the only ones I know about are the genuine Kawasaki accessories, which aren't made anymore, but can usually be found used on ebay.

Noticed you are from Arkansas. I lived in Arkansas for 4 years, 2 up north in Marshall, and 2 down south in Star City. I'm pretty familiar with the whole state. Some very nice places to ride.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Jerry.. Im in Jacksonville and ready to ride all over.. As for the bike.. its running fine. After i had it on the charger, the VM read right around 14v and it did go up with some revving. It only dropped to about 10.5 when started. the guy i bought it from seemed to know his stuff and this thing was near mint in all respects. It just shocked me to see it die while driving, where a car battery will usually let you get somewhere and then not restart. I ran around town for a bit later and all seemed fine. How often should i put it on the charger
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 05:53 AM
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If the charging is ok and you are using it regularly and you have a good MF battery unless their is a drain on the battery you shouldn't need to keep charging it up so I would check all the electrics for a drain/bad battery or charging fault 10.5 seems a bit low to me on tick over, you could buy a battery maintainer/charger and plug that in if you are leaving the bike for any length between rides
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 11:00 AM
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Hey PittDave and welcome, I am a newb around here as well, I bought a 86 Vulcan 750 last week and love everything about it. It needs a little chrome work but all and all, my wife and I have never been happier with a bike. This is our 3rd bike and it also did the same thing yours did. I charged the battery and have not had a problem since. I will be putting in a (MF) battery as soon as possible, as mine has the original 86 battery that came in the bike. You are in the right hands here. Welcome aboard.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the welcomes and advice. I believe my batt is already an MF. there are no cells to add water. It was on the charger overnight and ran around all day today. I just dont know how old that batt may be. I'll just get a new one soon to be safe. The guy I bought this one from said he had it on a charger once a week. I'm going to look at it again on the voltmeter tomorrow
Nice 50-mile ride today..fun but windy
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 10:36 PM
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One of the issues is that bikes have headlights which quickly drain the battery at idle. A motorcycle engine has to be running at around 3000 rpm before it is making enough current to run the ignition and all the lights without draining the battery. A car has a much larger battery, which will last a long time if you don't have the lights on. I have driven hundreds of miles with a broken alternator belt, and it still started fine. Plus, cars have a WHOPPER of a charging system compared to a motorcycle. I have a Geo Metro alternator on my Goldwing, it puts out 55 amps at idle, which is around 650 watts at 12 volts. I don't know what a Vulcan 750 stator puts out, but it is only a tiny fraction of that, and then only at or above 3000 rpm.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-06-2012, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittdave View Post
thanks Jerry.. Im in Jacksonville and ready to ride all over.. As for the bike.. its running fine. After i had it on the charger, the VM read right around 14v and it did go up with some revving. It only dropped to about 10.5 when started. the guy i bought it from seemed to know his stuff and this thing was near mint in all respects. It just shocked me to see it die while driving, where a car battery will usually let you get somewhere and then not restart. I ran around town for a bit later and all seemed fine. How often should i put it on the charger

Ok, I've been through there, there is/was a member here form Conway, but I haven't seen her post here in a long time.

As for the charger, I use a Deltran Battery Tender Jr., and keep it connected anytime I'm not riding the bike. It has a pigtail that connects to the battery terminals, and you can run the plug end out from behind one of the sidecovers, making it very easy to plug and unplug.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-06-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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thanks jerry
i have the pigtail for my charger and its been off for a few days, i think i'll put it back on tomorrow

I'm still lost on the grambo trick with the cam tensioners. Im just not good at exploded views and topology.
There are two tensioners that i need to work with.. correct... one for each cylinder?? I think i see the left one, but cant seem to find the right one
I need a good pic that shows right where I need to go... I am SOOO mechanically uninclined

Im also lost on the air/fuel mix screws

sorry to be such a newb, but its been a while for me
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 05:20 AM
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If you found the left one, which is on the front cylinder, the left one is on the rear cylinder, in the same spot, on the right side, right above and forward of the coolant reservoir. Screwed into the end of each one is a chrome 10mm bolt. with the engine off, remove both those bolts (they're actually just plugs) and take a VERY small straight screwdriver, stick it in where you removed the plugs for, and wiggle it around until it goes into the slot on the screw inside the tensioner body. Turn it to the right as far as it will go (you will be turning it against spring tension), then release it. You should hear it snap back. You can also turn them counterclockwise with the engine running, but oil tends to leak out of the rear one, because it is pointing down. Replace the plugs. That should stop the noise for a while, but it will come back. Once the tensioners are worn, there is no way to save them.

The carb mixture screws are right on the sides of the carbs, facing out. they are close to where the vacuum lines attach to the carbs. If they have never been adjusted before, the caps may still be on them. I took a drywall screw and a hammer, put the point of the screw dead center on the cap, tapped it with the hammer very carefully, until I was able to screw it into the soft metal slightly, then used the screw to pull out the cap. Kind of like a corkscrew. Don't screw it in to far, or you will mess up the mixture screws and possibly the internal threads on the carb body.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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