metal flakes on filter screen - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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metal flakes on filter screen

hi again everyone. drained oil lastnight and when i took out filter screen there was metal flakes all over it.needless to say i have to start to take the engine apart ! where is a good place to get engine gaskets and is complete kit avalible parts suppliers here are hopeless
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 08:55 PM
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Just curious, what year is your bike? I'm guessing somewhere in the 85-95 range? If so then it could well be the balancer dampeners are going. Good thing you caught it now.
As far as a gasket kit, no, there isn't one. Offhand I know you will need the stator gasket and bevel gear. Pretty much what you would need for a stator change. Other then that, hopefully someone that has gone into the balancer can step up and provide a parts list.

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 09:44 PM
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I copied this from seebeeare. The cheapest parts are from cheapcycleparts.com


11004-1135 - GASKET-HEAD Kawasaki 2 $20.12 $40.24
11060-1361 - GASKET,CYLINDER BASE Kawasaki 2 $4.95 $9.90
13008-1077 - RING-SET-PISTON,STD Kawasaki 2 $26.29 $52.58
11060-1088 - GASKET,CLUTCH OUTSIDE Kawasaki 1 $5.55 $5.55
11060-1089 - GASKET,GENERATOR COVE Kawasaki 1 $10.64 $10.64
11060-1090 - GASKET,CLUTCH COVER Kawasaki 1 $12.36 $12.36
11060-1091 - GASKET,TRANSMISSION C Kawasaki 1 $3.81 $3.81
670b2014 - Kawasaki 4 $0.51 $2.04
670d1509 - O RING Kawasaki 1 $1.63 $1.63
11060-1086 - GASKET,GEAR CASE Kawasaki 1 $7.12 $7.12
11060-1092 - GASKET,OIL FILTER Kawasaki 1 $3.27 $3.27
92055-1021 - Kawasaki 1 $2.31 $2.31
670d2020 - O RING Kawasaki 1 $2.19 $2.19
49063-1057 - SEAL-MECHANICAL Kawasaki 1 $17.97 $17.97
92075-1747 - DAMPER Kawasaki 4 $5.11 $20.44
92075-1748 - DAMPER Kawasaki 2 $6.12 $12.24
11060-1083 - GASKET,SEPARATER COVE Kawasaki 2 $2.31 $4.62
14043-1056 - FILTER,OIL Kawasaki 2 $3.77 $7.54
92055-049 - Kawasaki 2 $1.48 $2.96
92055-1272 - RING-O,27.7MM Kawasaki 2 $1.92 $3.84
11060-1119 - GASKET,EXHAUST PIPE Kawasaki 2 $3.71 $7.42
92051-005 - OIL SEAL,TB13225.5 Kawasaki 1 $3.07 $3.07

also need a clutch hub holder and a roter puller 18x1.5mm bolt yammabond case sealer if you split the cases

this list includes new rings , gaskets and orings the only missing orings are the acct's

And here is a post from lance:

With the miles you have (13,500) there is no need for a rebuild, but since you have an 86' I would tear down completely and split the cases. Depending on your model year, you too may need to replace this part.

If you are wondering why split the cases, I'll tell you. Inside your engine is a $5.00 part that will fail due to it's design, it's the "tie rod". It's a part of the internal shift linkage and over time it will bend and break. Once you remove the cylinder and pistons you should be able to see the tie rod. If the rod is the same diameter as the threads it's the old design, the new rod is a lot larger than the threads. The redesigned tie rod is twice the diameter to eliminate a failure.

I also recommend using Viton valve stem seals instead of Kawasaki. I also recommend using Permatex High Tack Spray Gasket Sealer on ALL paper gaskets and Permatex Ultra Copper Spray Gasket Sealer on the head gaskets.

Make sure you use Blue Loctite on the left balancer bolt, lower chain giude bolts and final drive bolts.

Unless you plan on doing an earshave and adding a performance exhaust there is no reason do anything to the heads except grinding the valves and seats. Doing a port and polish will be pointless with a restricted intake and exhaust system and milling the head will change the valve timing.


https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...Journey+Begins

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10664

Lance:
Here is the list I have on hand, it has everything for an overhaul AND not A COMPLETE REBUILD!!

QTY SKU DESCRIPTION


1 11060-1088 GASKET, CLUTCH OUTSIDE COVER
1 11060-1089 GASKET, GENERATOR COVER
1 11060-1090 GASKET, CLUTCH INNER COVER
1 11060-1091 GASKET, TRANSMISSION COVER
1 11060-1086 GASKET, BEVEL GEAR
2 11060-1082 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD
2 11060-1119 GASKET, EXHAUST DOWN PIPE
2 11060-1361 GASKET, CYLINDER BASE
2 11060-1083 GASKET, SEPERATOR COVER (CAM CAP RESERVIOR)
2 11004-1135 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
1 92055-1319 O-RING, GENERATOR OUTSIDE COVER
3 92055-049 O-RING, OIL FILL CAP AND SPARK PLUG TUBES
3 92055-109 O-RING, OUTSIDE GENERATOR COVER SCREWS
1 670D1509 O-RING, IMPELLER SHAFT (WATER PUMP)
1 49063-1057 MECHANICAL SEAL (WATER PUMP)
1 92055-112 O-RING, THERMOSTAT HOUSING
1 671B2525 O-RING, WATER PIPE TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING
4 92055-1308 O-RING, COOLANT PIPE (FROM CLUTCH COVER TO ENGINE CASE) "TWO ON EACH END"
2 670B2014 O-RING, CYLINDER HEAD COOLANT PIPE
2 92055-1272 O-RING, SPARK PLUG TUBE
1 92055-1358 O-RING, SIDE OIL DRAIN PLUG (17MM)
2 670D2021 O-RING, ACCT (AUTOMATIC CAM CHAIN TENSIONER)
2 670B2018 O-RING, TENSIONER PLUG ABOVE THE "ACCT"
8 92049-1062 OIL SEAL, VALVE STEM (I PREFER THE "VITON" SEALS ON EBAY)
2 14043-1056 OIL FILTER (IN HEAD BETWEEN CAM CAP AND HEAD)
1 16097-1058 OIL FILTER ASSY. (FILTER SCREEN BEHIND SIDE OIL PLUG)
1 92055-1276 O-RING, STARTER MOTOR TO ENGINE
1 92051-005 OIL SEAL, SHIFT SHAFT (GENERATOR COVER)
4 11009-1344 OIL PIPE GASKET (EXTERNAL OIL PIPE TO HEADS)
2 11009-1105 OIL PIPE GASKET (OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT)
4 92075-1747 BALANCER DAMPER !!!!!!!!! MUST REPLACE !!!!!!!!
2 92075-1748 BALANCER DAMPER !!!!!!!!! MUST REPLACE !!!!!!!!

PARTS YOU MAY OR MAY NOT NEED

2 13008-1077 PISTON RING SET, STANDARD
1 59256-1058 IMPELLER (WATER PUMP)


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE LIST ABOVE IS EVERYTHING TO "REFRESH" THE ENGINE!!!!!!!!!!

IT DOES NOT INCLUDE ANY BEARINGS OR ANY PARTS YOU MAY NEED IF YOU HAVE TO SPLIT THE CASES OR ANY PARTS DUE TO AN MECHANICAL FAILURE.

VITON VALVE STEM SEALS

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWAS...item45eee53c4a

CONTACT THIS PERSON FOR THE SEALS, HIS AUCTIONS JUST ENDED FOR THE VN750. HE HAS PLENTY IN STOCK AND WILL RELIST SOON.

If you do not need to split the case halves you will NOT need any special tools.

If you re-ring you WILL have to de-glaze the cylinder walls. If you don't the ring will NOT seat properly.

DO NOT use any RTV Silicone sealant, use Permatex High Tack Spray Gasket sealant on the paper gaskets and Permatex Ultra Copper Spray Gasket sealant on the head gasket.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 09:14 AM
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Symptoms of the balancers going usually include excessive vibration, if I'm not mistaken. There's a guy named Beavis (google Beavis and vn750) who has pictures of how a balancer can chew through a crankcase.

I think flakes can be caused by other kinds of internal wear/failure as well. How long have you been running the bike? Have you noticed any new/odd behavior or engine sounds? Is this the first time you've looked at the screen? How many miles does the bike have?

**

If you are taking the engine completely apart, go with the above.

If you are "just" going after the balancers, it's basically the same procedure as a stator change but with one extra step. The balancer gear sits below and in front of the rotor. To get at it you have to pull/tilt the engine, do everything you'd do for a stator change, and additionally, just pull the rotor. Once the rotor is off, the balancer gear will then come off in your hand and you can replace the dampers inside it. (Make sure you align the balancer gear notch and rotor notch when you put the rotor back on!) You can probably do the entire thing in a very full weekend, even if you take the time to clean, paint, silicone the rubber engine mounts, etc.

Do a few searches on the site for engine tilt/pull, J.R., and rotor puller.

The parts needed for a stator change are fewer. Without removing the bevel gear, all you really need is the one gasket for the stator case, and time/patience in pulling/tilting the engine.

One way or another, if you're stator output isn't optimal, I'd buy a new/replacement stator from Tim Parrott Enterprises (search the site) and put it in there while you've got that part of the bike apart. Stator replacement is time consuming, so you may as well kill two birds with one stone.

I just put my Tim Parrott rewound stator in and it's POURING out voltage. I'm getting 13.7-14.1 at idle and an optimal 14.5 when revving. ('Course I also did away with the bullet connectors and used slightly heavier gauge wires to run from the stator to the RR.)

**

If you're doing the full engine take-apart, there are tons of experienced posters who can help you. (I am not one of them.) Either way - Good Luck!

Scheherazade
'86 VN750
MF Battery, Iridium Plugs, RR relocated, Voltmeter, 170/80/15 Kenda Kruz rear tire, DIY Samsonite hard bags, DIY shaved seat with Beaded seat pad ('cause that's how I roll) and the dreaded STATOR CHANGE.

Shining Black Bess '86 VN750, retired for parts after a fried stator and being knocked (kee-runch) in her parking spot.

Last edited by skalding; 02-14-2010 at 09:18 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 10:47 AM
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Wow!! If it were me, I would just pull the engine, remove the left cover, check the case for damage, hopefully if there is any, it won't be bad enough to weaken the case. I would replace the rubber dampers and put it back together with new gaskets. Again, if it were me, I would just locate another engine rather than splitting the cases, and having to deal with all those cam chains, but if you want to do it and feel that you can, go for it.


If you do tear the engine completely down, it would be nice if you took a lot of pictures along the way, so others can see what is involved. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 11:40 AM
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Replacing the balancer dampeners does NOT involve splitting the case, as skalding pointed out, it's just one extra step from a stator change,
While you do have the engine out check the stator for any burned areas If you have a couple of spots that look blackened then it's a good time to go ahead and replace the stator too.

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 11:44 AM
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Wondering what year the bike is? How many miles, etc. A picture of the metal flakes would be nice to see. Shavings, chunks etc...??? Thank God for the metal screen, huh? It will be interesting to see what you find in the internals.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna View Post
Replacing the balancer dampeners does NOT involve splitting the case, as skalding pointed out, it's just one extra step from a stator change,
While you do have the engine out check the stator for any burned areas If you have a couple of spots that look blackened then it's a good time to go ahead and replace the stator too.

Thanks. I didn't think it did. I can't imagine anyone wanting to split the cases on a VN750 unless they were a pretty decent mechanic, AND had a whole lot of time on their hands. I'm an auto mechanic, and I'm fairly certain I could rebuild a small block Chevy from the ground up faster and with a lot less frustration than a VN750 engine. And unless I were building it for a specific reason, I wouldn't even take the time to rebuild a Chevy engine, I would just get a rebuilt long block. Plenty good for daily use, a lot less work, and actually cheaper in the end.


I really hate to bring up Harley here, but they have a program where they will ship your EVO engine back to the factory, rebuild it to like new condition, and ship it back to you, for a fairly reasonable price. I don't know of any other motorcycle company that will do anything like that. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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