ACCT removal - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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ACCT removal

I want to rebuild or replace my ACCT's with new ones, or replace them with manual ones, heres the problem. The manual states I need to remove the oil pipe on the front cylinder head in order to remove the ACCT. In order to do this I need to remove the engine from the bike. Are you serious? There has to be an easier way to do this and not have to cut the mounting tab on the oil pipe..any suggestions? I am going to first try the Grambo trick to see if this will help and go from there...thanks for the support!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 11:56 AM
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First, yes they are serious. You have to remove the engine to do a lot of things to the Vulcan 750 engine. It's a very poor design, most people think the engine was originally designed for a different frame. The good news here is that it's ok to cut the mounting tab off the oil line. I did, and the line is still very well supported. I have no concerns about it. It is not easy, I used a Dremel with a flexible extension and a reinforced cutoff wheel, and was VERY careful. One slip, and you will cut right through the oil line, then you will have no choice but to replace it. Once I got the tensioner off, I has room to smooth the cut with a hand file. Now I can remove and replace the tensioner any time I want. I was going to put a removable clamp around the line, but decided it didn't need one.


Most people suggest bending the line, but I don't recommend that, for a couple of reasons. First, the line is very rigid, and would be very easy to kink or break if you try to bend it. Bending it only once will stretch the metal and weaken it. That means that even if you do successfully bend it, it's probably a one time thing. If you want to remove the tensioner again, it would most likely break if you tried to bend it again.

I replaced my tensioners with the manual ones, after years and 40,000 miles of problems with 2 sets of stock ones. So far, no more problems. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 12:22 PM
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Is it an older model? I had no trouble replacing them on an '06
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
Most people suggest bending the line, but I don't recommend that, for a couple of reasons. First, the line is very rigid, and would be very easy to kink or break if you try to bend it. Bending it only once will stretch the metal and weaken it. That means that even if you do successfully bend it, it's probably a one time thing. If you want to remove the tensioner again, it would most likely break if you tried to bend it again.
I just bent the tab, not the entire oil line. No problems what so ever doing that and there's NO chance of knicking the oil line with anything used to cut the tab.
Pretty much 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other. Just get it outta the way, somehow, and don't worry about it.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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ACCT removal

The bike is a 1995 VN750A11 model. It has a tab from the oil line over the inside bolt that holds the front ACCT. I am researching and considering replacing the ACCT's with manual ones from TOC manufacturing. The Bike has the classic symptom of noise when cold that goes away when warmed up. I tried the Grambo trick yesterday and it didnt seem to improve it. I redid it this morning but havnt had a chance to warm it up or ride it as its now snowing where I am!

Ill repost when I try it...
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 02:15 PM
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Welcome to the Vulcan madness RH.
I`m sure the oil line is the same on all model years. X2 to Hypers suggestion to just bend the tab out of the way, and leave it that way. The line has plenty of support without that one bracket.

If using the Grambo trick did not make any difference to the noise you are hearing, and the noise goes away when the engine warms up, I think the noise is coming from somewhere other than the ACCT. Other posts have referred to noisy ACCTs after riding for some time.

I am not sure from your description, if the noise you hear is when you start the engine and it is warming up before you move off, or as you are moving off. There is another sound sometimes called the "coffee grinder noise", which comes from the clutch on the first ride of the day when moving off, with the oil still cold and thick. Perhaps this is the noise you hear.

Read this link to the Vulcan verses about the coffee grinder noise and see if that sounds like the noise you hear.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1091

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 02:51 PM
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I agree that the tab is not necessary, but it is welded to the oil line, and I still feel that bending it might damage the oil line. If you do bend it when you remove the tensioner, I would then go ahead and cut off the tab, as you now have plenty of room to do it. It will be a lot neater and cleaner (yes, I'm very picky about such things).

If the "Grambo trick" made no difference at all, that makes me wonder if it is the cam chain tensioners. I did that trick several times, I also turned the screw counterclockwise just a bit, both stopped the noise temporarily, but it came right back. In order to work properly, the tensioners have to be designed so that once they advance, they cannot back out. But apparently they do, and fairly quickly. The "coffee grinder noise" only happens when the bike is in gear, as you are releasing the clutch. It will not happen with the bike in neutral, idling on the centerstand. I have noticed that mine only makes that noise when the engine is cold, after it warms up, it goes away. So since I always warm up my engine until the needle on the temp gauge reaches the second mark from the left before riding it, I almost never have a problem with that issue. The coffee grinder thing is almost always accompanied by a jerking and lurching as you release the clutch.

If your bike is making a rattling noise while on the centerstand, right after start up, while idling in neutral, and the noise goes away, or almost goes away after the engine warms up, I can't think of anything else it might be but the cam chain tensioners. If the noise changes or goes away after the engine gets warm, it is definitely an abnormal noise, there is nothing in the Vulcan engine that should do that. It should sound the same, whether warm or cold. Oh, there is one exception, but I doubt that is it. The VN750 engine uses hydraulic lifters, and if you let it set for a few days, it can make a slight rattle as the lifters fill up with oil, but that goes away after about 2-3 seconds. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 04:32 PM
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I have built and repaired several of these engines and never had to cut the oil line tab on the front ACCT.

To remove the ACCT just remove the inner nut and bend the tab out of the way. You will cause no damage by bending the tab and I do not reccomend cutting the tab off. Install in reverse.

I do not reccomend the use of TOC ACCT spring replacement, it simply is not reliable. 6 out of 7 spring replacements I have done has ended up going to the TOC MCCT. Save yourself some heartache and get the MCCT's, I no longer bother messing with the ACCT springs.


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Last edited by lance328; 01-25-2010 at 04:35 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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ACCT removal

OlHoss,

I just visted forum member Fergy's website which has a sound bite of the cam chain noise and its identical to what mine is doing!

Jerry,

Your last paragraph is dead on, Bike is in nuetral, on center stand and the noise does almost go away after the bike is warmed up. If I wasnt listening for it I'd swear it was gone.

Lance,

I am going to get TOC MCCT if the consensus is its the ACCT's doing this...

FYI, I have just rebuilt the clutch using the EBC Kevlar kit from Ebay and installed the stronger springs as well. On my test ride sunday the clutch performed flawlessly. If it helps I am also now using Mobil1 synthetic 10W40 motorcycle oil. I also contacted the former owner (also a forum member), and he told me he rebuilt the ACCT's and the noise went away for a while but came back, but that was 4 years ago.

Thanks to all for the rapid responses!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 05:38 PM
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Then it does sound like it is the cam chains/tensioners making the noise. I also recommend the manual tensioners, they are what I finally wound up with. Unlike the stock ones, even with a stronger spring, there is no way the manual tensioners can back out, they are locked down tight.

I'm not sure whether the noise is made by the cam chain itself, or the tensioners. I had the cap off the front tensioner with the engine running, it was making the noise, I stuck my little screwdriver in there, and the screw was vibrating so bad it knocked the screwdriver right out of my hand. I put it back in there, and pushed real hard on it, and the noise quieted down some. But, while holding the screwdriver against it, my whole hand was shaking. There is definitely a lot of movement going on in those tensioners when the engine is running.


As for the tab thing, if lance328 says it's ok to bend it, then I guess it is ok to bend it. As for cutting it off, I just like to do a neat clean job, and to me, the bent tab sticking out there wouldn't look good. When I installed the Kawasaki Fire and Steel saddlebag mount brackets, they required the helmet locks to be removed from the side rails. This left the ugly mounting tabs still on the rails. I removed the rails, cut the tabs off, and then ground everything down smooth. A small thing maybe, but I have this thing for details. As for the helmet locks, I threw them away. I have never used helmet locks. If the bike is in a safe place, I put the helmet on the mirror or backrest, if it isn't, I take it with me. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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