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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hi everyone. I just recently purchased a 95 vulcan 750 from my cousin do to a charging system problem. Found the problem to be a bad stator. It was not an easy repair but got it taken care of. I wasn't planning on having to take the motor out. I'll be honest this wasn't my first pic on a bike but the price was right. Its kinda starting to grow on me. I 've been doing some mods to it to kinda update it a bit. As soon as i get some pics I will post them. I would really appreciate some feedback as to my changes. I heard these are very reliable bikes and hope to enjoy it in the spring. Also any links to used parts appreciated. i am looking for the caps that go on the sides of the frame for the swing arm bolts. missing not sure why.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 08:37 PM
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welcome to the forum... glad to hear you got her reserected... as for the caps... they always fall off... just silicone the new ones into place
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 09:13 PM
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Welcome to the forum. You can try locating parts here in the Sell or Swap section, and ebay usually has a pretty good selection.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 01:23 AM
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Or you can get new ones from bikebandit.com. Sometimes new ones don't fit quite right, due to being slightly too big. I had to sand one of mine down just a little, it kept popping out when I pushed it in. Once they fit properly, I glued them in place with Permatex #2. Will probably have to break them if I ever need to get them off. They are one of the Vulcans minor problems, along with the toolbox door behind the seat that breaks off if you actually use it.


Since you've already done the stator, and got the engine put back, it's to late now, but if I ever have to replace my stator, I will also replace the rubber dampers on the counterbalancer, which have a tendency to deteriorate over time, and your bike is 15 years old. Two other things to pay attention to, is the cam chain tensioners, they tend to fail, causing excessive engine noise (a loud rattle) especially on a cold engine at idle. I replaced mine with manual ones.

And since you just got done doing some major work, it's time for some more. The first thing I would do is take the shaft drive apart and lube the splines. Seems like Kawasaki didn't lube the splines at the factory on most of the Vulcan 750s they built, and too many people find out the hard way, after the splines have completely destroyed themselves. aside from that, the Vulcan 750 is a great bike, and very reliable.

But as much as I love it (I'm on my second one, both bought new), when it wears out, or becomes too expensive to fix to be worth it, my next bike will be something a lot simpler. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:20 AM
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To find the cap you need, follow this path:
1.) Go to http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...50-a19/o/m4524

2.) In the menu list next to the schematics list, click on Frame & Footrest

3.) Select Frame & Fittings schematic

4.) On the schematic, scroll down and look for part 11012.

I need to get one too.


VROC Number: 31246
2003 Kawasaki VN750 SOLD
2006 Honda VTX1800C
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 01:49 PM
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Welcome to the Vulcan madness striff. X2 to checking and lubing the rear splines. Too bad you didn`t find us before pulling the engine for the stator replacement. Jerry mentioned the dampers on the balancers, and there are a few other things that could probably have been more easily checked too. See the link at the bottom of my sig for some suggestions of things you can do to spend some quality time with your bike while waiting for riding season to arrive.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback. I did notice some noise at idle. I wish I new about the tensioners prior to replacing the stator . Do they fail as far as internal damage or are they just noisy I relocated the regulator to the side of the bike and updated the battery. what do you do to lubricate the shafts just remove the boots and spray them with something or actually remove it and use a heavy grease. Looks like a lot of work to remove the shaft. had it apart when i had the motor out. Again I wish I would have known. Guess the motor needs to come out AGAIN! If someone could let me know with a full parts list what I should replace as far as the timing chain set up it would be appreciated. I got my gaskets from bikebandit for the stator repair so i am familiar with them. Thanks again.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 08:32 PM
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The good news is you don`t have to pull the engine for a spline lube or to fix the Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners (ACCT).

Do the "Grambo trick" to determine if your tensioner spring is weak first. It is quick, easy and no cost.
Link here: https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1076

TOC makes a heavy duty replacement spring for the ACCT, but many owners here will advise you replace it with a TOC manual tensioner, ((MCCT).

This TOC link shows you what it looks like and how to replace the spring in an ACCT. Look around for info on the MCCT too.
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/ACCT...structions.htm

The front ACCT is on the left side, back of cylinder, down in the "V", pointing upwards at ~30* angle. The rear cylinder ACCT is on the right side, pointing downward a few degrees towards the coolant overflow tank.

This is a free downloadable Kawi service manual for the vn 700/750 from toc too. It is big, 2395 pages, so save it for the next time you may need it:
http://www.tocmanufacturing.com/File...nd%20Parts.pdf

Here is a link to fergys home page. He has a link with directions for a spline lube and or rear drive replacement there.
http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/vulcan.html

Also down at the bottom he has a sound clip of a noisy CCT, and one that is properly adjusted. Compare his sounds with what noise you are getting on your bike.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 01-14-2010 at 08:36 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:46 PM
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I would not remove the motor again, unless you really need to. On the balancer damper, listen for noise coming from the left front of the engine, just forward of the footpegs. When the rubber dampers start to come apart, they allow the metal balancer to wobble, and there is very little room between the balancer and the case, so the steel gear teeth on the balancer will start to dig into the aluminum case. Aside from noise, another way to check for deterioration of the rubber damper is to check the screen behind the oil drain plug on the bottom left side of the engine. This is where the oil should be drained, not the plug on the bottom of the engine. Look for small particles of rubber or aluminum in the oil screen.



If you have any doubts about the cam chain tensioners, or if you do the "grambo trick", and it quiets the noise down, but it comes back fairly soon, I recommend replacing the automatic tensioners with the manual ones. I messed up the first time, and replaced them with new Kawasaki parts, which failed again after about 10,000 miles, next time I went with the manual ones from TOC, no noise since. Everybody seems to have a different way of replacing/adjusting the manual tensioners, I posted my method here somewhere, I'll dig it up if you decide to go with manual tensioners.


As for the splines, it's not really that hard. You do not have to remove the front bevel gear assembly, and you do not have to remove the swing arm, which is quite a job in itself. While the manual calls for lubing the swing arm bearings, I don't recommend it. The amount of work it takes to do it just isn't worth it. You can check for excessive play in the swing arm bearings when you do the spline lube, and if you do find a problem, you can remove the swing arm, and replace the bearings with new ones. Unlike the splines, worn swing arm bearings won't really do any damage. I have 43,000 miles on my '02, and the swing arm has never been off. The bearings are still fine.

To do the spline lube, you do need to remove the rear wheel, both shocks, and the final drive gear case. When you get the gear case off, the rear splines are right there. The male part is sticking out of the gear case, the female part is inside the end of the driveshaft. I just coat the splines on the gearcase with grease, then fill the end of the driveshaft with grease, and push them back together. That will squeeze most of the grease out of the driveshaft, and make sure everything is well packed with grease.


As for the front, I do that first, before the rear. With the swingarm down as far as it will go, I pull on the rear end of the drive shaft, which will disengage it from the front bevel gear assembly (you have to pull back the rubber boot to get to it) Then I use something small, like a popsicle stick, to pack the front end of the driveshaft with grease, and coat the splines on the front bevel gear. The trick is getting the driveshaft to engage the splines on the front bevel gear, because the U joint will try to drop down. I've been able to do it fairly easily by using a long skinny straight screwdriver in my left hand at the front coupler to help hold the U jount up, and wiggling the other end of the driveshaft around with my right hand. When it lines up right, it will slip right into place. A lot of people just pull back the boot, and use spray grease on the front spline. I'm just really picky, and want to make sure both ends are well packed in grease. Oh, and don't forget to put some grease on the splines where the rear wheel engages the final drive gear case. Sorry about the long post, I type really fast. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-15-2010, 11:35 PM
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honda moly 60 for your spline lube, it should take you less than an hour. and welcome to the forum! if you already tackled your stator, you've done the monster on our bikes the rest should be cake! acct's are quick and painless too!

1986 vn 750 aka "Huck Farley"
42,000 miles
Rick's stator and rr
Tuxedo stator cover mod
pickup coil mod
dampers replaced
agm m/f battery
Harley sportster exhaust, degoated
Hid conversion
splines lubed
custom "vn750.com" grill cover
NGK Iridium spark plugs


acct to mcct mod https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

rekeying locks, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7309

stator replacement walkthrough, https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11369
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