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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 05:00 AM Thread Starter
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Ok,. Y'all ,
I'm, a new very happy to be a member of this forums very informative and constructive group of members,. Ok I am from New Orleans, and currently living in Shreveport, Louisiana. I have about 2.5 yrs exp on bikes had a Yamaha r6
7 yrs ago for 1st bike now after some time finally got me a cruiser.
Bought the 95 vn750 about a month ago 14,000 miles on odometer I really didn't care what it stated being that I don't know but seems it be easy to manipulate miles on a motorcycle odm,. It started on cold start and was calling me. It picked me not the other way around ya know..

Anyways I love it,,..!!! And thanks to you guys and this site I have had tremendous help in all categories.. Figured I'd stop evesdroppin and sign in and let y'all know thank you for the pass month of help you all unknowingly supported in.. lol

I'm an electrician and going back to school now for Industrial Automation and Controls, so of course I have done the 2 wire mods bypass starter safety features, and turning lights on with key. And checking connections, want to get the coil onedone next Bob it out a little etc...
The bike had some spark plug issues at 1st so replace a set them it fouled 1 out and was running on one cylinder and there's a thread in here. Cleaned and recut the spark plug wires one was super bad in weathering, So I did the seafoam in the tank as directed and the spray in on both carbs. Ran it on the interstate and its been fine ever since.

I had a throttle cable about to pop and couldn't find a place near me or anywhere that I could get the inner wire cable. So pulled new steel braided wire from Home Depot through the original throttle push-pull cables "it's the smallest wire on the pull-it-yourself-&-cut isle and its actually a little thicker than the OEM wire" 1ft=$0.32
Pushed it rite through both after trying for a hot minute to rig it to pull it through with original broke wire. Lubed it up and it's running smooth..
I should have gotten on here way earlier but I am very hard headed and very much against buying a set of you only need a piece of it.. anyways
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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O do y'all have the idle rev up pretty high after about 15 or so minutes riding and have to lower it a hair or 2 and then after it cools and you start it up u have to raise it up again when you start it up next time? Just wondering
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 10:14 AM
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O do y'all have the idle rev up pretty high after about 15 or so minutes riding and have to lower it a hair or 2 and then after it cools and you start it up u have to raise it up again when you start it up next time? Just wondering
Welcome, glad to have you.

About the idle, though, no I usually don't have to fiddle with my idle setting except for a couple times a year when the weather changes. Otherwise typically I choke the bike fully on a dead cold start, slowly lower it down over the next few minutes as it warms up, and turn it all the way off after the first few stopsigns. After that the idle may be a bit low until the bike gets fully hot, but I expect that with the choke.

Idle should rest right around 1000-1100 rpm when the bike is warm with no choke.

I used to have to fiddle with the idle a lot before I pulled the carbs and deep cleaned them. All the seafoam in the world wasn't gonna fully unclog my dirty carbs. You can keep running seafoam to see if it continues to help you, but if you have to mess with the idle frequently or get a lot of popping from the exhaust on deceleration you may have to do a deeper carb clean down the road.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 03:14 PM
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Welcome aboard, Nola.
I second ubertalldude's comments about the choke and idle settings. I don't touch the idle knob on the left side except maybe once a year.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-22-2020, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
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Ok guys thanks I appreciate it that that's what I thought .. and thanks for the outline on your starting up process. I believe I'm definitely start running it way early before she warm...
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020, 05:38 AM
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I would definitely use oem throttle cables. You have to get the entire cable assembly, including the housing. I eliminated the "push" cable on mine, I consider it to be dangerous, as well as unnecessary complexity. It can bind, and cause the throttle to stick. My throttle feels a lot better with just the "pull" cable on it. It snaps back a lot easier when released than with 2 cables. I keep my cables well lubricated with PJ1 cable lube.

https://www.chapmoto.com/pj1-cable-l...C0-50%7CC%3A50

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2020, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
I would definitely use oem throttle cables. You have to get the entire cable assembly, including the housing. I eliminated the "push" cable on mine, I consider it to be dangerous, as well as unnecessary complexity. It can bind, and cause the throttle to stick. My throttle feels a lot better with just the "pull" cable on it. It snaps back a lot easier when released than with 2 cables. I keep my cables well lubricated with PJ1 cable lube.



https://www.chapmoto.com/pj1-cable-l...C0-50%7CC%3A50
Keep your throttle cable lubricated, LIKE YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO, and it won't bind. With a push/pull system, you aren't supposed to just let go of the throttle, you push it back...

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