Best short term patch would be to run a jumper from the positive battery terminal to a 10amp fuse to a switch to the input of the RLU.
I recommend a jump pack to everyone, but like Spockster said, if your bike drains down low enough that it won't spark, jumping it might get you another 2 miles down the road, but it'll be dead again almost immediately.
I left my lights on like an idiot, and drained the battery to zero. Managed to get it jumped with a jump pack, and rode for about 7 miles with no problem, keeping the RPMs high to put charge on the battery. Ended up hitting some traffic and thought I had enough juice built up by then to let the engine idle at a stop light. I was wrong. Bike used up what little charge it had (wasn't charging at idle RPMs), and died just as the light turned green. Waddled across several lanes of angry traffic and tried to push start it on the sidewalk. No dice. Jump pack that I was going to recharge at work was totally drained and couldn't help any more.
That'd be the razor edge you would walk every day until you get your stator fixed. Could die at any time, and once it dies, it's going to keep dying.
Killing the headlight might reduce the current consumption enough that you could make it home with what would normally be too little stator output.