Blue wire mod issue - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:28 AM
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I was getting around a 12.5 reading on the battery just sitting there. Started up. Kept testing it. Drops a bit lower after it starts the. Revving it will get it to 12.6 12.7 but never saw 13... Turned it off and the battery went down to 12.25. Rode it it again turned it off battery was at 12.35.

It's not charging at all.

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Is there anything wrong with getting an $80 jumper charger so I donít get stranded and can stop having this mess up my summer any longer? I know itís putting a bandaid on the problem but it would save me a lot of time and stress right?
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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What do I need if itís not charging at all?
Thanks
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 02:56 PM
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Is there anything wrong with getting an $80 jumper charger so I donít get stranded and can stop having this mess up my summer any longer? I know itís putting a bandaid on the problem but it would save me a lot of time and stress right?

Doing that will just cost you more time and stress. The bike is going to die at the worst times, and by the time you get it started and the jumper put away, it will be ready to die again.

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What do I need if itís not charging at all?
Thanks
Test the stator, r/r, and check out the wiring/connections.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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It never dies after it starts
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:00 PM
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It never dies after it starts
After the battery voltage gets low enough, it will die. If the stator isn't putting anything back into the battery, it can't keep going.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 09:25 AM
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Best short term patch would be to run a jumper from the positive battery terminal to a 10amp fuse to a switch to the input of the RLU.
I recommend a jump pack to everyone, but like Spockster said, if your bike drains down low enough that it won't spark, jumping it might get you another 2 miles down the road, but it'll be dead again almost immediately.

I left my lights on like an idiot, and drained the battery to zero. Managed to get it jumped with a jump pack, and rode for about 7 miles with no problem, keeping the RPMs high to put charge on the battery. Ended up hitting some traffic and thought I had enough juice built up by then to let the engine idle at a stop light. I was wrong. Bike used up what little charge it had (wasn't charging at idle RPMs), and died just as the light turned green. Waddled across several lanes of angry traffic and tried to push start it on the sidewalk. No dice. Jump pack that I was going to recharge at work was totally drained and couldn't help any more.

That'd be the razor edge you would walk every day until you get your stator fixed. Could die at any time, and once it dies, it's going to keep dying.

Killing the headlight might reduce the current consumption enough that you could make it home with what would normally be too little stator output.

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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:38 AM
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When my stator finally gave in I was about 15 or so miles from home. I too died in traffic, I tried my jump starter but it wouldn’t work with an already severely drained battery. I ended up getting a jump from a guy in a truck which gave me enough juice to get close to home, it was highway riding until the last two miles and as soon as the rpms came down the bike sputtered out. Another guy pulled over jumped it one more time and I got home. This isn’t something you want to deal with. Everyone should have a jump starter but for emergencies, not daily riding. Every time the battery drains way low it’ll be a little weaker when recharged. Run the tests on the charging system and hope it’s the R/R instead of the stator. It’s an easier fix
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics I took of the wiring going into the boxes. My friend who has a shop is just really backed up so I went to this shop thats actually 2 doors down from me but they have a lot of harley stuff going on... anyways, I talked to the guy today and he basically said he will put on a new stator and R/R for $450. And have it done in a day! I'm thinking that's my best bet at this point. What do you guys think? I really appreciate all the help from you guys on here. Please let me know how that wiring seems to add up. Thank you
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 07:49 PM
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I’m thinking he may not realize the engine needs to come out or be tilted to get to the stator. The OEM stator is + gasket cost me about $440 alone. Plus the cost of 7 hrs of labor. And that was a Kawasaki dealership with so called “trained” mechanics.
Or, maybe your guy is just really good
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