Blue wire mod issue - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 09:02 PM
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Time out. Your battery doesn't drain when you remove the *10* pin connector? The blue mod should have been done exclusively on the 8 pin connector. If you meant '8 pin connector', then I'll dig deeper into that portion of the wiring to see what could be wrong (it looks bulletproof with a cursory glance).

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Yes my mistake I mean the 8 pin connector. The top one.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 05:11 PM
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Weird. There's nothing in the circuit that would cause a vampiric draw triggered by moving that wire. The voltage for the headlight is cut completely off by the ignition switch.

Your headlight is now protected by the "tail light fuse" instead of the "headlight fuse". I'd pull the tail fuse and use a multimeter to check for voltage to the battery on both terminals in the fuse block with the ignition 'off'. There shouldn't be any. Alternately you could check the amperage draw between the terminals with the ignition 'off' again, there shouldn't be any.

Just to be safe, do the same check on the headlight fuse. There shouldn't be any voltage or current there either with the ignition off. That fuse can be completely removed after the blue wire mod, so if you get any readings there, yank the fuse and your problem will be solved.

The only other thing I can see that could possibly be drawing power with the ignition off that would be affected by unplugging the 8-pin connector would be the R/R. If all else fails, try leaving the 8-pin junction box plugged in and unplugging the rectifier between rides to see if that solves the drain or not. That would be an odd failure, but I don't see any other alternatives.

Very curious to hear the outcome of this.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is online now  
 
post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the detailed response. I really appreciate it. Iím out of town and will be tackling your suggestions sometime next week.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE. I was getting around a 12.5 reading on the battery just sitting there. Started up. Kept testing it. Drops a bit lower after it starts the. Revving it will get it to 12.6 12.7 but never saw 13... Turned it off and the battery went down to 12.25. Rode it it again turned it off battery was at 12.35. Then I tested the battery with it off and it was around 12.3 to 12.45 and this time it wouldnít start at all. Acted like the battery was completely dead. A lifeless attempt then basically nothing but clicking. One thing to note is this is all with the blue wire mod intact and the headlight on. Another thing I tested is you said I could remove the headlight fuse since post mod the light is on via the tail light fuse. That wasnít the case. With the headlight fuse pulled I had no headlight. The blue wire mod was done the way explained because it does go on now with the key turned to ON. Even though the battery shows it at about 12.4 now it wonít start but I know it will start once I charge it up. And it started multiple times with a 12.25-12.3 reading. What gives?! THANKS
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 06:33 PM
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When you say “revving it” how fast are you revving? My bike will jump over 13v with just a little choke, only at warmed up idle (about 1k rpm) will it not charge. My key off voltage is 12.8, so besides the mod, have you tested your charging system? That’ll surely lead to the bike not starting. You shouldn’t have to charge it all the time just to start it up. Not sure what type of battery you have but fir an AGM, 12.5 is about 70% of full capacity give or take.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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I was revving it at high rpms and low and it never got to 13. So yeah it must be the charging system. It just seems odd that I never had this issue until fixing the light by doing the blue wire mod. Whatís the best way to check the charging system? Do you think Iím gonna need a new stator or rectifier or? Thanks
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 04:03 AM
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"With the headlight fuse pulled I had no headlight."

Whaaaat? *laugh* I literally today had to pull my tail light fuse in order to shut off my headlight! There's something totally screwy with your wiring. Could you post a picture or five of the wires going into your junction box connectors? Probably just easier for you to use the wiring diagram to verify that all the wires are the expected ones. I wonder if a previous owner did some splicing that worked fine until the blue wire mod was done.

Did you check for voltage/current when the ignition was 'off'?

And here's a crazy question since the headlight fuse is still in series with the headlight after the blue wire mod: Does the headlight go off with the headlight fuse in but the tail light fuse pulled? Wondering if somehow everything got daisy chained together.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is online now  
post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigconey View Post
I was revving it at high rpms and low and it never got to 13. So yeah it must be the charging system. It just seems odd that I never had this issue until fixing the light by doing the blue wire mod. What’s the best way to check the charging system? Do you think I’m gonna need a new stator or rectifier or? Thanks
I would review the wiring connections like Thorn stated above but to verify the stator and R/R, on the left side of the motor you’ll see the black wire covers coming out, they are fished under the bevel gear and go towards the battery case under the seat, there’s 3 yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them, you can disconnect them there (doesn’t matter which way you reconnect them because they’re all the same), take a voltmeter and test for infinite resistance between each of the leads and the bike, one lead on the yellow wire, and the other either on the negative battery terminal or a bolt on the engine block. Point being is you should not have continuity, if you do the stator is shorted, if that tests good then test the resistance reading between any two of the yellow leads, I believe it should be .6ohms, the measurements are in the manual. If that all checks out good there are similar tests for the R/R
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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It does not go off with the tail light fuse pulled and the headlight fuse in. Just when the headlight fuse is pulled. The wiring diagram shows 17 wires going into the junction box so I guess thatís including other boxes? Iíll send some pics ASAP.
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