Intro—So i recently purchased a 2004 Vulcan 750 with 1470miles on it and it’s been sitting sense 2005, I started to somewhat get the bike back on the road by: clearing the gas tank of rust, cleaning the carbs, getting tires, changing all the fluids, simply cleaning the bike, and a battery. I joined the forum with the hope of getting help with some issues and possibly provide good feedback to what I encounter to help others.
Problem—The engine will run but there’s oil getting into the combustion chamber and leaking out through the exhaust pipe. I’m guessing a seal, however I was wondering if there’s anything I can try to help without breaking down the engine.
Welcome. There are 3 ways oil can get into the combustion chamber. Through the carbs (from the crankcase vent) valve guide seals, or past worn rings. If there was enough oil to actually leak out the exhaust, it should be smoking like crazy with the engine running, and the plugs should be badly fouled. Other than from the combustion chamber, there really is no other way oil could get into the exhaust.
I use full strength Seafoam to fill carbs with if the bike is going to sit for a while. I have used it in oil on used bikes, but you still have to change to oil about 10 times before it will stay reasonably clean. I would first do a compression check and see what you get. If the compression is low, nothing but an engine rebuild will fix that. If it's the valve guide seals, that's a bit easier, but still a whopper of a job. Being a 2004 with under 1500 miles on it, it may have a lot of problems caused by deterioration over the years. That's why I always start and warm up stored bikes at least every 2 weeks, to prevent internal rust and corrosion and rubber seals from drying out and leaking. That bike may have sat there for 15 years without being touched.
That is certainly possible, but I would think that unless they did it recently, that oil would have seeped past the rings and out of the cylinders a long time ago. You also mentioned a rusty tank and having to clean the carbs. Now, I'm OCD about such things, but I could store a bike for 15 years with virtually no deterioration at all. It would require some attention. I have a couple of bikes stored right now, and they have been for the past 3+ years. But they have non ethanol storage fuel (the stuff is $20 a gallon, but lasts for 2 years) in them, they are connected to battery tenders, and they are started and warmed up at least every couple of weeks and thoroughly warmed up. I sometimes even ride them around the back yard so that everything that is supposed to be moved gets moved. If I were forced to let a bike sit for an extended period of time I would have removed the tank, drained it, and coated the inside with oil. I would have filled the carbs with oil. I would have propped it up to keep the tires off the ground/'floor. And yes, I would have filled the cylinders with oil, and sprayed fogging oil through the carbs to help protect the valves and valve seals. I would also have sealed off the intake, exhaust and crankcase vent to keep moisture out.
I still recommend a compression or leakdown test to see what you are dealing with. It is possible that the rings rusted in the bore, and the seller got them unstuck before selling the bike. But there would likely still be extensive damage to both the rings and cylinder walls.
I'm skeptical of oil making that trip without turning to smoke first. Could it be fuel and just washing black soot out of the exhaust? That could be a stuck float in a carb causing that, very common with one that has been parked a long time.
Are both cylinders getting hot after running? One cold cylinder, and strong gas smell, could be a sign of a stuck float.
I would suspect oil rings stuck with carbon, but you just don't have the miles for that.
It's possible the previous owner poured oil into the the cylinders knowing it was going to sit for awhile.
Now a couple things about the bike:
-I did a compression test and all 4 came out to approximately 165psi (cold)
-the bike was not properly stored, however all seals I have come in contact with have been in great shape. (It was garaged the whole time)
-the carbs and the fuel tank were cleaned out 100%
-oil and coolant have been replaced- still waiting to change brake fluid
-Tires were replaced
-I filled the fuel take with 91oct and a small amount of Seafoam.
-For it to start I have to give it throttle, it won’t start without the throttle. (Maybe not enough fuel getting to the engine).
-when the bike is running it is still smoking a lot (maybe some smoke is coming from the seafoam, I’m pretty sure it’s not just that.)
Hi drop your oil get both piston to the bottom of there bores and fill the bores with diesel it will work its way past the ring and drain out the sump keep topping the bores up with diesel for a couple of days this should free up any gummed rings I have used this method on my cx650 custom that was burning oil and it worked great saves rebuilding a engine just to free the rings its a cheap fix if it works
I agree, at 165, you have plenty of compression. BTW, you only need to check it in two places. There are only 2 cylinders, so you will get the same reading no matter which side you check them on. Now I would suspect valve guide seals. What weight oil are you using? I recommend 20w50. The thinner the oil, the easier it is for it to leak past seals. If you can afford it, you could even try 60w racing oil. I wouldn't leave it in there too long, just see if it smokes less with it. If you can drain it out without contaminating it, you can put it back in the jug, and mix some with regular oil at every oil change.
I have a 1964 Ford with leaking valve guide seals. It has plenty of compression, but it still smokes, especially on startup, and burns oil. I decided not to do anything with it, because the oil leaking past the valves actually helps lubricate them, and help prevent damage from ethanol gas.
I would just go ahead and ride it a while, and see if the smoking stops. About the worst it can do is foul plugs.
The top rings are for compression the oil control ring is the one that gets gummed up even if you have good compression the oil control ring if gummed up it will burn oil ie blue smoke when running
Okay so all is good, bike is running and I was able to ride it for a little before the battery died on me. (New one on its way.)
-I sprayed a little Seafoam into the spark plug holes and let it sit for a couple of days.
-I took the carbs off a second time and flushed them again.
-I played with the fuel and air ratio.
-After riding the bike, I tried to jump it so I could ride it home and I’m not sure if I fried something. ALL LIGHTS ARE WORKING EXCEPT FOR THE HEADLIGHT AND THE STARTER ISN'T TURNING. ( I keep seeing this 2 wire bypass, but I’m not sure if that’s going to fix the issue.)
Check your fuses, and double-check that none of your lockout switches are stuck (clutch, neutral, kickstand).
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Kawasaki VN750 Forum
411.9K posts
42.1K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Vulcan 750 motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, reviews, and more!