New member! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
New Member Introductions First Post?
Make your big introduction here.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
iTrader: (0)
 
New member!

I just got an 03 vn750. It had 13,950 miles when I got it for $1500. The most embarrassing thing that has happened since is, I took the time and effort to load it up into my truck, strap it down, drive it across town, take off the straps, and unload it to take it to the shop because even though it would start and run wonderfully, the second I shifted from neutral to first the bike would die immediately. I can guarantee that those of you who've owned vn's before know what I was doing wrong, but I'll tell everyone else in case they don't know. On any bike I rode before my 18 year bikeless stretch I'd start the bike in the same manner. Choke, key, run button, start button, clutch, shift to first, then the kickstand and take off. The only thing about that is, Kawasaki has a "safety feature" that will not allow you to shift to first when the kickstand is down. I also had no idea about the 3 ball neutral finder deal that makes it a huge pita to downshift from second to neutral to get to first if you're standing still. I have a couple of questions about the bike, riding the newer models, and properly shifting. I ride for enjoyment. I work in my car so that makes it harder to get away from work, when you have to take work to get away from work, if that makes sense to anyone. So basically I just hop on the 750 and go cruise for a couple hours. Since I'm riding for fun over transportation, what is the best rpms to shift at? The other thing is that when I want to ride at highway speeds (65-75 in Oklahoma where I live) the rpms are revving at over 4500. Is that safe for the bike, and since the vn doesn't use the chain and sprocket system and you can't just get a smaller/larger sprocket as you need, is there a way to increase overall speed and lower rpms?
drwilli78 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 02:27 PM
Retired USAF (IYAAYAS)
 
Chris and Shim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fredrickson Wa
Posts: 599
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
The "best" rpm to shift at depends how you feel like riding. I rarely look at the tach. I tend to do it by feel and sound so if it "seems" ok to shift then do so. The bike is forgiving. For simple, around town just going from point A to point B riding I tend to shift at lower rpm's. For raped-ape acceleration then go higher.

Don't worry about rpm's at freeway speed being too much. (As long as you are certain you've got it in top gear, that is.) This thing is built to rev and its as happy as a dead pig in the sunshine at higher rpm's. It can stay that way for as long as its got fuel and not have a care in the world. As long as you maintain it properly it's pretty bullet proof.

You'll soon become aware that the higher rpm's you keep it at, the lower your MPG will be. But that's the same with any engine. If you're doing some good, fun back-roads riding in the 45 mph to low 50s mph then your MPG can be in the mid 50s. If you do a lot of 70+ freeway riding don't be surprised if that drops to mid 30s or low 40s. You'll figure it out.

To answer your question about increasing overall speed while lowering rpm's the general answer is "no". About the only leeway you have to do so is to change rear tire height and it won't be enough of a difference to make a difference. It is what it is.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
Chris and Shim is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it. Fortunately even though I took the bike to the shop to fix something that wasn't broken they found a couple of important things that needed repairs. The overheating was due to the fan assembly and the other was the fuse panel box, so even though I put the maintenance free battery in it before I rode it after I bought it, I was still hit with the vn electrical issues. But replacing both of those, doing a tune up and oil change, having the clutch slave rebuilt, and checking all other fluids and problem areas only cost me $400. Even adding that to the $1500 I spent on the bike I'm still sitting on a really good deal I think.
drwilli78 is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 08:03 AM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,444
iTrader: (5)
   
You can shift into 1st with the kickstand down, you just can't let the clutch out. The neutral finder doesn't prevent getting to 1st gear, only 2nd and above.

The VN750 has no hydraulic clutch, so I don't know what slave cylinder they rebuilt.

Edit: 2300 rpm is a good shift point, if you aren't trying for a land speed record. 1st gear, just for rolling out to 10-15mph, then get 2nd. Drag race launch in 1st gets you nowhere fast.

This engine can run 6000 rpm all day long without breaking a sweat.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 05-05-2019 at 08:13 AM.
Spockster is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 12:39 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 978
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
2300 rpm is a good shift point, if you aren't trying for a land speed record.
That's my "time to downshift" RPM! I feel like my engine doesn't really like to be below 2000 rpm, and has good cruising behavior between 2.5k and 3.5k. I upshift between 4.5 and 5k when climbing to full highway speed from a stop. When in 5th I know I'll never be near the bike's red line without embedding myself in someone's rear fender.

1992 US-nonCA * tuxedo mod * r/r relocated

Vulcan slang for newcomers
Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
Thorn is online now  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 01:34 AM
Retired USAF (IYAAYAS)
 
Chris and Shim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fredrickson Wa
Posts: 599
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
LOL. If someone is running at redline then its "scary" time! I've had mine up to 9K one brief time. Admittedly, I was being stupid at the time. It was screaming like the proverbial banshee. A good screaming but one that I won't take it to again. The bike might have the balls to do it but I don't.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
Chris and Shim is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 04:29 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 2,833
iTrader: (0)
 
Welcome. The Vulcan 750 has 2 "nanny switches" one is on the sidestand, the other is on the clutch lever, to prevent you from starting it in gear with the clutch out. I have always removed those things form every bike I've ever owned that had them. They are failure prone and can leave you stranded even when you know about them. I also feel insulted by them. If you can't ride, then you need to learn to ride first before actually doing it, and that includes making sure the kickstand is up and it is either in neutral, or the clutch is pulled in. I actually used the starter motor to move a Goldwing almost a block once. I disabled the ignition first.

The "positive neutral finder' is Kawasaki's answer to a question nobody asked. Makes it almost impossible to get the bike into second if you need to bump start it, and of course they did not include a kickstarter.

I shift at different speeds depending on the situation. In town I short shift as long as it is not lugging the engine. On a freeway on ramp I shift at full throttle about 6000 rpm (from second on up. 6000 rpm is a bit much for first) I usually shift into second almost instantly after I start moving unless I am going really slow. I've never been able to quite get mine to 9000 rpm (which is just short of the 9500 redline) a good downhill and tailwind would probably do it. But remember it is a cruiser, not a crotch rocket. It really doesn't have the handling for super high speeds. I noticed a definite shake in the front end at near 100 mph.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
VN750Rider/Jerry is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 04:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Jason Pittenger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Northern Illinois (Not Chicago)
Posts: 231
iTrader: (0)
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
I shift at different speeds depending on the situation. In town I short shift as long as it is not lugging the engine. On a freeway on ramp I shift at full throttle about 6000 rpm (from second on up. 6000 rpm is a bit much for first) I usually shift into second almost instantly after I start moving unless I am going really slow. I've never been able to quite get mine to 9000 rpm (which is just short of the 9500 redline) a good downhill and tailwind would probably do it. But remember it is a cruiser, not a crotch rocket. It really doesn't have the handling for super high speeds. I noticed a definite shake in the front end at near 100 mph.
Mine has an 8500 redline. Are there differences over the years? I've seen elsewhere on this forum of people shifting/running out to 9500 RPM, but I never felt comfortable going 1000 over redline. (I did accidentally run it out to 11,000 when I hit neutral instead of 2nd gear).

I try to keep the RPMs above 2500, occasionally dipping to 2200 when a 30 mph zone goes to 20 mph and back to 30 mph. Lazy Sunday driving, I shift by 3k. Normal traffic driving I shift between 3 and 4k. Sprited driving 4-5k. Get-The-Heck-Out-Of-Dodge driving, 8500 (my redline) until I reach my desired speed.

Welcome!


'89 Vulcan 750 Bought 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800
Purchased stock. Wrecked once
22490.0+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB
110/90 Front Tire
Pick-up coil re-gapped to .020"
Compufire 55402 r/r series regulator
USB Outlet + Voltmeter
Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages
Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG
MCCT conversion

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals
Windshield
Highway Pegs
(Possible) ignition advance
Jason Pittenger is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 5
iTrader: (0)
 
Apologies, it wasn't the clutch slave, but the front master cylinder that was rebuilt. I don't know where clutch slave came from, but that's not what was fixed. So either tomorrow or the day after, I'll get it back from the shop. I've been cruising around the forum for the last few days, because I'm going nuts waiting for the shop. I figured that if I couldn't be out getting in real road experience with my "new" bike, I'd try to familiarize myself with it in other ways. The forum has been excellent for answering questions for me and I really dig that this resource is here. I just feel bad for a lot of people who live in the northern climates because they are just starting to get ready for the year and I've been riding since February. And even that was due to just buying the bike then. Here in Oklahoma it's very possible to be able to ride all year round, even if it's only a day or two break in the cold. At the very least I can ride enough every month to prevent the bike sitting without running for not usually longer than 10 days or 2 weeks max. I am pretty lucky really, because the weather cooperates for riding here so well. Now all that I need is for my 41 year old muscle memory to remember everything they knew at 18.
drwilli78 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome