Forgot to mention: Removing the positive lead from the battery when the engine's warmed up and running will cause it to sputter and die.
I learned from these folks last year (after my regulator went in Gettysburg and some helpful soul was trying to diagnose the problem) that removing the pos lead isn't a diagnostic tool
on these bikes. Didn't cause any additional problems with mine, but just a caution.
At idle (around 1100 rpm), your battery will not be getting recharged - the charging system doesn't kick in until around 2500+ rpm. So you can idle for a long period of time, and just watch the voltage slip away. If you can twist the throttle and gets the revs up to 4-5K, your voltmeter should show an increase to about 13.5 or thereabouts. If it's not, first check your regulator (especially since it's been relocated) - I have a heckuva time getting the measures that the Clymer's calls for, but if the battery's not recharging properly, that's your first (and most likely) culprit. Also, and maybe you posted this and I missed it, how old is the battery?