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earshave problem

3K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  Foxhound 
#1 ·
As of my last post i had a spun rod bearing. Got parts motor tore down and back it runs great and decided while it was tore down to do an ear shave. Like i said motor runs great but now when cruising say 55 mile an hour motor is stumbling if i turn the throttle picks up and pulls hard like it should shuts down good. All seems well except for that stumble while crusing. So i was curious about what others with an earshave are running for pilot jets and main jet. Seems to be leaning out and i cant seem to make up the difference with mixture screws. I am running staight out exhaust independent no goat belly or H-pipe. A 145 main jet a 40 pilot jet and #4 position on adjustable needle which is equivilent to stock needle with 2 shims and i beleive i am at 3 1/2 out on mixture screws any help would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
The stumble at cruising is not related to the main jet. Remember, it's throttle position that determines where the gas flows from, not rpms.

So if you are crusing at 55 mph, take note of your throttle position, is it 1/8 full, 1/4 full, etc. Then you can take action at the right place.

As a guess, I would think you've got too much needle in it. I tossed my adjustable needles and am running stock needles with one shim. The adjustable needles may not be tapered the same as the factory ones.

I am also only 2.25 - 2.5 turns out on the screws.

Lets us know.

Jon
 
#3 ·
yea i didnt want to use the aftermarket needle in the begining started with stock needle with 1 shim then 2 did the same thing only went with 2 because it seems to be leaning out. What size pilot jet are you using.
 
#4 ·
40 pilot, stock needle with 1 shim (may add another), stock main, about 2.5 out on the screws.

Are you sure it's leaning out? Try adding a little choke, if it improves then you were lean, if it gets worse, you're too rich.

Jon
 
#5 ·
I had the same problem. Check the boots that contect the carbs to the cylinders. They go in a certain way. There are little tabs on the boots that line up with nubs on the cylinder. I spent a lot of money on stuff I did not need to try and fix it, and that's all it was.
 
#6 ·
Thanks gang. I changed back to the stock needle with shims and corrected boot position she is running great!!!!
 
#8 ·
Can either of you tell me where the projection is on the rear boot as mine must have worn off during the numerous on/off cycles.

Perhaps reference where the part number is stamped into the end, or in relation to the seam.

I don't want to do this again.

Slim - What jetting, how many shims, and what mixture screw turns did you wind up with?

Jon
 
#10 ·
I ended up with 140 main, 40 pilot, stock needle with 2 shims each. (Stock needle works much better than aftermarket) and 3 turns out on mixture screws. I am pretty sure i originally had an intake leak.
 
#11 ·
That's great, glad it's worked out.

Thinking I may have an intake boot issue so pulled carbs to check.

Favor to ask. Can you tell me where the projection is on the rear boot as mine must have worn off during the numerous on/off cycles.

Perhaps reference where the part number is stamped into the end, or in relation to the seam.

I don't want to do this again.

Jon
 
#12 ·
Just a thought Jon, but maybe you should order a set of new ones? I know they get beat up with taking the carbs on and off and might make a big difference in seal. I think the pair cost about $50. I know they're not cheap, but it could solve the problem.
 
#13 ·
Fergy -

I gave them a good once over while they were out. Flexed them every which way looking for cracks. Couldn't find any breaks or cracks.

Think I figured out the projection for the rear one from picture in the Kaw manual. Put it back together but have not ridden it yet.

Jon
 
#15 ·
I didn't figure it out before I put mine back on. I did wrestle with them till they looked like they fit right. I guess I got lucky.
 
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