Do I Really Have To Change My Oil Every Year? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Do I Really Have To Change My Oil Every Year?




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Dear MOby,

I just saw your answer regards oil change. My manual says that I need to change oil every 3000 miles. But I only ride about 1000 miles per year (very short commute). By the book, I need to perform oil change every three years. Do I really need to change oil every year? Is it okay to change oil every three years, just because I donít ride that much?

Thank you
Jay

PS: Just to make myself comfortable, I do oil change once a year.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 07:37 AM
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Yes, it breaks down. And when our oil breaks down, the MACHINE breaks down and when the MACHINE breaks down, WE break down.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 02:35 PM
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Yes,I agree,it's worth it for what it costs to change it every year,and also adds to peace of mind when you open it up ,which I like to do when I hit the highway....hah!!!
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 04:40 PM
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It isn't necessary. Oil doesn't go bad or "acidic" from sitting, even in an engine. There are so many myths and misconceptions with vehicles, it's tough to sort through it all sometimes.

Also, 3,000 or even 5,000 mile changes are more frequent than necessary with modern oils, especially on a water cooled vehicle. 5-8k changes are cheap insurance though.

Without getting into the chemistry of it, the main thing is how much crap it's picked up from the engine and whether the lubricating molecules have broken down from lots of mileage and high heat.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 02:27 PM
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I agree with Hex, but I would ask where you live. If up north, does the bike sit all winter in below freezing temps? You can get condensation in your oil, and it can change its chemistry if subjected to below freezing weather.
I had one that I rode in the winter and the oil looked like spoiled mayonnaise...

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 02:20 PM
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If you are assuming the environment is climate controlled perhaps but you are watering (oxidizing) the **** out of oil in a metal engine that has rising and falling temps. You can not spend the $40 bucks once a year if you like. I change that **** every 3000 miles even with full synthetic. With my sporty I can tell the difference and it's not in my head as the primary drive is wet. These vulcans have twice the RPM as my sporty (half the raw ass power Doc) so I would be an oil changing fool if I were you.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 02:40 PM
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especially considering how smooth and vibration free my vn750 is with good balancer bushings,I wouldn't know how much raw ass power it has,cause it never vibrates my ass raw.😉

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofyfoot2001 View Post
If you are assuming the environment is climate controlled perhaps but you are watering (oxidizing) the **** out of oil in a metal engine that has rising and falling temps. You can not spend the $40 bucks once a year if you like. I change that **** every 3000 miles even with full synthetic. With my sporty I can tell the difference and it's not in my head as the primary drive is wet. These vulcans have twice the RPM as my sporty (half the raw ass power Doc) so I would be an oil changing fool if I were you.
The only way any appreciable amount of condensation would collect is if the bike never gets up to normal operating temps. It really should not be an issue. In that case, I'd check the t-stat. They're designed to fail open rather than failing closed and overheating.

Also, in my experience, water in sporty primaries is usually from rain or wash water getting in through one of a few places.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by OleDirtyDoc View Post
especially considering how smooth and vibration free my vn750 is with good balancer bushings,I wouldn't know how much raw ass power it has,cause it never vibrates my ass raw.😉

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Hexadecimus View Post
The only way any appreciable amount of condensation would collect is if the bike never gets up to normal operating temps. It really should not be an issue. In that case, I'd check the t-stat. They're designed to fail open rather than failing closed and overheating.

Also, in my experience, water in sporty primaries is usually from rain or wash water getting in through one of a few places.
Since when? The first sign you'll see is overheating, because when they stick open, it's not so noticeable. Might see a lower engine temp, or the heater not so good in a car. Most I've changed have stuck closed, and it was known right away. Motorad Failsafe t-stats are designed to fail open, I know of no others at the moment.

Short trips on any engine will make the oil or at least the valve cover milky. Let it go long enough and the oil turns to paste. Somebody that only drives a short distance to work and home will certainly see a problem.

With the temp swings in my garage the past three months, all metal looks like it was misted with a spray bottle. Has to happen in the crankcase too.

To say that oil does not go acidic, flies in the face of decades of motoring data that says otherwise.

At 3000-3500 miles, my oil sure looks and smells like it needed changed. The VN manual says a lot more miles, but that really looks like a misprint.

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