Possible ACCT Noise Among Other Issues - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Question Possible ACCT Noise Among Other Issues

I've posted a few times about different issues I've had trying to get my '99 VN750 up and running. I've had it in the shop a few times for "Flooding Carbs" and I thought that might still be the issue and I posted here about it. I tried the blowback method that was suggested and that seemed to work but when I went out on the road it died while I was driving. I was able to get it going again after a good backfire and get her home. I figured it was the carb flooding out again but the tech has been in there 2x and replaced the floats and needle 2x now, once with aftermarket and once with OEM so either they are bad at their jobs or I need to throw my carbs in a river. I ordered a carb rebuild kit in case I couldn't fix it with seafoam.

I dumped a whole can into a 1/4 tank and ran it for like 20 min, figured that would get enough seafoam in the carbs to eat up whatever was in there. I know that sounds excessive but I figured I'd be pulling the carbs off anyway. Well, I let that sit for like 24 hours and that seemed to do the trick as far as the low idle and I was able to ride it around yesterday without much hesitation and any hesitation I felt I just chalked up to the fact I'm pretty much running on seafoam.

I figured I'd check the voltage just to make sure I was charging right because after running it for a while at idle to see if it would flood my battery was at 60%. When I hooked up the meter it seemed all over the place I was going from ~ 9v to 17v depending on the speed of the engine. That told me the r/r was shot so I swapped it out for a new one and relocated it by the left rear foot pegs like in the other threads about the r/r. Hoping that solves some issues.

The engine sounds pretty good now and I'm hoping that with the changes I can ride over 2 miles from home w/o getting stranded again. With all that said I'm now hearing this loud ticking. I know that we have the ACCT and that they tend to wear out over time. This bike has 19k on it 19.7k to be exact which I know is right around the mileage they start to go. Here is a vid of the noise (hopefully someone hears something and can tell me what they think I have no idea -- total noob ):


I changed out the oil because after the flooding there did seem to be some gas in there as it was very high and coming out of the overflow in the left airbox. Hoped that would do the trick and ran it after the oil change for around 15 minutes. It was running ok (again thinking it was hesitating because of the seafoam) so I added some fresh gas in there to dilute out the seafoam and get some better combustion going. I started it up this AM and it backfired but ran fine and stayed at 1200 once I took the choke off. I'm hoping once I run through this tank the backfire and roughness will go away (get all that seafoam out of there). The video above is from last night.

I've never worked on motorcycles before and this is my first bike. It had been sitting for like 4 years w/o being ridden before I brought it to the shop to get it running so hopefully I'm just working out the kinks and I didn't buy a hunk of noisy metal that moves from time to time.

Any help with what I've described would be hugely appreciated. I've already sunk $1400 at the shop to get the $800 bike back that keeps dying on me and the first time I brought it in they had it for 2 months and the last time 3 weeks. That doesn't include what I've spent on parts and things I've tried to do myself. I would like to avoid sinking a lot more into in it or bringing it anywhere and handing someone money for a repair that I'm not totally sure was done correctly, also being without the bike in the spring for another month sounds pretty terrible. So, hopefully, with your help we can figure this out.

Thanks, guys!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 11:34 AM
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ACCT noise.

Swap to manual tensioners.

With 'cheap' bikes, unless you can work on them yourself, you end up sinking a lot into labor.

If you haven't swapped to iridium plugs, and an AGM battery, do so. Weak ignition is usually the reason for backfire on startup.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:02 PM
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You've got the right idea with the seafoam, no worries on overdosing it that stuff can work miracles sometimes.

Another item to look at if you think the bowls keep flooding/floats keep sinking is to check and see if you're getting gas on the lower tube of the gas petcock on the tank. Sometimes the petcock can leak through the vacuum inlet which would act just like a flooding bowl/stuck float. If it's bad you can disassemble it and clean it up a bit or get a different petcock.

Seconded on the battery and plugs. Mine is running an Autocraft AGM Powersport battery, works well for now, but the Yuasa is recommended. Iridium plugs are a bit expensive but worth it, proper NGK coppers would suffice for the time being but aren't ideal.

As for the ACCT's you can convert them yourself. I would recommend doing them with the "JB-welded nut" type conversion. It's much stronger and less prone to letting go, which would be a very bad thing at speed. Check the other postings on the site for some more info.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:11 PM
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yea, overdosing on seafoam isnt easy...

one day I bought 2 cans from local parts store, mentioned I was putting in my motorcycle, and said one can will treat 20 gallons. I told her both are going in the tank right now and its less than 1/2 full (so figure less than 2 gallons). she about bugged out on me. I dumped them in, started it and proceeded on my way.

yea, it was not real happy idling for a tank or 2, but it solved my issue (jets where gumming up).


also, have treated many an auto engine with it.. get it warm, dump some into intake slowly (keeping engine running), then just at the 'end' of your treatment, go for broke and let it kill the engine. then wait 20 mins or so, and proceed to clear 'skeeters for 2 blocks

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I'm running an AGM battery (brand new) and the NGK DPR7EA9 regular ol copper plugs. I have a set of the NGK Iridium plugs but I didn't realize I needed new connectors too. That's on my list.

Keep the suggestions coming I love it!

Last edited by scc1233; 05-25-2017 at 12:20 PM. Reason: Spelling
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:31 PM
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Iridiums shouldn't need new connectors, just unscrew the "car" style plugs from the threaded bit at the end of the spark plug and they'll connect right up to the stock wires

Last edited by ubertalldude; 05-25-2017 at 12:33 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well ubertalldude you just made my day also I feel dumb lol. Does anyone know if that TOC Manufacturing is still in business? I ordered 2 from him (figured if I'm going to fix it I might as well do it with what I've read on here to be "bulletproof") but I haven't gotten any confirmation from the site and saw it hasn't been updated in a long time. My PayPay did go through ok. - Thanks!
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