Dampers installed, engine painted, and MORE! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Dampers installed, engine painted, and MORE!

So, as of late, my moto's been shakin' pretty good. Shook itself good enough to get full butt-o-meter and footpeg vibrations, even shook the top motor mount loose and almost out. SO! Tore the engine off and did the dampers to ease the obviously excessive engine vibrations. 3 weeks later, I now have:

PICS!

1-dampers replaced
2-stator cleaned
3-new gaskets/o-rings on everything
4-painted the engine Satin GM Black
5-installed a used MOSFET R/R
6-iridium plugs

and I more or less wanted to post the results (and some pics to come later)
excruciating details BELOW

1 - the dampers (92075-1748 x 2 ; 92075-1747 x 4) fell out of the balancer gear as soon as I pulled it out of its place. They were fully intact but were obviously shrunken and there was visible play between the gear and the balancer shaft when rotating the engine The new ones seem to have calmed the vibrations of the engine felt by touching the engine, and now the footpeg/butt vibration is not as violent as it was at 5k rmp, but the vibration is still there, albeit not harsh. The mirrors shake slightly at idle, as does the bike as it sits on the centerstand. Not sure if it could be considered "normal" but until it proves tiresome or harsh, I will assume it was a successful and proper install. Jacked the engine slightly, loosened all 3 motor mounts, then torqued them all to 33 ft-lbs (I believe this is the correct torque spec) and I will see if this helps.

2 - the stator was gunked up a little bit as can be seen in a previous post. I cleaned it with a bit of gasoline and rinsed it with distilled water while I had the stator case off to do the dampers.

3 - (stator case gasket 11060-1089 | exhaust crush washer x2 11060-1119 | screw o rings x3 92055-109 | stator cover o ring 92055-1319)

4 - Stripped the factory paint with a few coats of aircraft remover, a nylon brush, toothbrush, and a hose, then painted it with VHT Engine Enamel - GM Satin Black. Masked off the coolant tube, bevel gear case side chrome, and oil feed line up to the base of the V so they would remain chrome. Bought one can, got 3 light coats in and ran out before being able to apply a medium wet coat. Shoulda bought 2... but I ran to the store before it dried and finished it

5 - got a used FZ-09 R/R from ebay and wired it up with new Furikawa connectors and a 30 amp inline fuse. Keeps 12.5 at idle, climbs quickly to 13.6 and stays there. I may be experiencing a brownout in the wiring, or may not be fully charging, or simply have a faulty used R/R.

6 - NGK iridium IX. Had a coupon for 25% off at advance auto, that's a whole free sparkplug!


also, as a fun side note, the upper coolant spout from the rear cylinder sprung a leak as I filled it with coolant. Took it out, cleaned the o-ring, flipped it, dabbed a bit of RTV on there let it cure for 20 hrs, and now it's fine.

Always take your time, and for puttin' the engine back in, HAVE A BUDDY HELP. That sucker is HEAVY

If you have any pointers, comments, or questions, I'm all ears!

Last edited by ubertalldude; 05-08-2017 at 12:20 PM. Reason: continually updateing based on charging issue finds
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 12:53 PM
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Can't beat having the onboard voltmeter to monitor the charge.

Looks like success, since the vibration improved, sounds like it was on it's way to damper failure. Stock or aftermarket mirrors? I know my vn is as smooth as it will ever be, but I do see some vibration on the license plate at idle. My mirrors are always steady, just some $20 aftermarkets. What year and how many miles?

The rtv on the o-ring can work as long as it's a light dab as you said. The rtv will push gaskets out of place when it cures if over-applied. Next time I buy those o-rings, I'm getting a hand full, have one seeping now (rear). Cleaning the tube and the hole in the head can help, because the steel and aluminum mating together creates deposits from corrosion. Dissimilar metal corrosion. I used a touch of Bel-Ray waterproof grease, so I'll see if that helped any with the corrosion.

That gunk on the stator was probably from long oil change intervals. Cleaning it would have to help with cooling, as the MOSFET is an improvement too, we see a lot of burned positive wires on stock r/r.

Engine tilt job saved my back, no way I would wrestle that engine myself. Used to do that, but no more. Watching for pics.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 02:19 PM
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Looking good. My engine is prepped and ready for paint, but my daughter derailed painting plans lat weekend (hit a curb with her car, I had to play body shop.)

Bake on that VHT with a good run or two. It should last pretty well.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Pics are up! Check back at the top of the post

Spockster - it is nice to have, but now it has me worried again! It's actually charging at a steady 13.6 volts at almost all engine speeds except dead idle. At idle is maintains a steady 12.6. Not the standard "14.5 v at idle!!!" Ive seen before, so I wonder if my FH020AA is on its way out (used part) or if I should try a SH-775 R/R... I've heard they're better for flaky stators because they're not shunting-type R/R's so they allow the stator to run at low load rather than full load when no additional current is required at the terminals... They also hook up to the same terminals as the FH020AA so they're a direct swap. Food for thought, maybe I'll be a guinea pig if nobody else has tried this. I read about it on another bike's forum.

Maybe something to do with the blue wire mod and the fact that it was a hot day? Either way, I don't think my charging is QUITE right just yet.

thtanner - My younger sister drives my dad crazy with the same kinda stuff, hahaha. I've been running it all day in the hot FL sun, so it got a good baking for sure
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 12:30 AM
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From what i"ve learned, there's no real variation in stator output, except that related to rpm. It's essentially full output all the time, except decreasing somewhat with the lowest rpm. The MOSFET is supposed to do a better job at disposing of the excess current.

Not sure why your idle volts are so low, there could be something in the junction box pulling it down. The Two-Wire Mod can help with some low-volt situations. 12.5-12.6 is not charging the battery, the bike is running off the battery alone at that point.

My bike gets a low voltage situation at idle when the fan is on during high heat conditions such as a lot of stop n go/slow traffic/idling, sometimes. The fan relay is the only JB relay I haven't bypassed, which I plan to do. The voltage recovers after the fan shuts off. It doesn't always drop quite that low with the fan kicking on, so I suspect the JB and fan relay.

Is the idle set at least 1000 rpm?
Do you have the headlight relay bypassed (blue wire mod)?
Idle volts were verified with another meter?

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Gonna do some real investigating and probing with a multimeters after the paycheck comes in, that way I can verify what's up (and hopefully not have to dig into the electrical system). My voltmeter is suspect for sure. It will sit at 0.00 until it wakes up around 13+ volts, so it's probably just a POS, but it's better than nothing especially if I can verify 14v at the battery terminals

I am blue-wire modded
Idle is 1100

I may have been affected by heat soak, 'cause I was running it at idle in the garage a lot yesterday to let the paint cure and to let any leaks or shakedowns happen before I got on top of it.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 04:22 PM
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I take it the dash meter continues to read once it comes alive the first time?

Hopefully it's just a 1v variation on the meter. If so, you can just calibrate your eyes to do the math.

Lowe's had some decent meters around $25, I've seen four of those $4 Harbor Freight meters go up in smoke testing 12v dc.

My $500 Simpson got knocked to the floor, so I had to go to Lowe's.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, stays constant at 13.6v at all engine speeds except dead idle, where it returns to a no-charge (or very barely charging) state. I did have it around town, starting and stopping, chutting down and recranking in the hot FL heat yesterday, and every time I parked it I got 12.5-12.6 v on the resting battery with all electrics shut off, so it's pretty obviously working or else I would have definitely killed the battery yesterday.

I was more or less concerned because I went from 14.5v on the stock R/R to "13.6v" with a MOSFET which had me scratching my head. 13.6 seems to be an acceptable charging voltage, and it does that at 2k rpm so I think I'm ok for now. May still do the 2 wire mod down the line because I did have a couple 11.5v brownouts yesterday, but I was sitting idle in my garage with the engine hot hot hot
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 12:13 PM
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Ok, I must have missed the part about the voltage running higher before the r/r swap. Could be the new r/r just doesn't allow the voltage to run that high, or you've got a brownout situation.

Does appear you've lost 1v across the board. Could just watch it and see how it goes, as long as it doesn't go to 12.5v at higher rpm, idling at 12.5v for a minute or so shouldn't hurt. Idling for longer periods is below the VN's pay grade.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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