Red Oil Light Blues - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Red Oil Light Blues

I've only seen a few topics here about this issue, but have never really been able to find a definitive fix.

The last few months, occasionally on a cold startup, usually the first startup of the day, I will start the bike, get it running and warmed up a bit, and then once I go to take off the oil light will come on. At first I just burped the filter every time it would happen and all was well until the next day would roll around and the bike would do it again.

I got sick of this happening so I tried a Bosch oil filter rather than the Supertech (WalMart) filter I had on before. Seemed to help alleviate the need to burp the filter, but it still the oil light would come on when cold after taking off and I would have to blip the throttle to 4k RPM to set it straight, sometimes 2 blips.

Filter helped, but not perfect, so I put 1/4 can of Seafoam in the oil and rode the bike out of town for a weekend, covering approx. 350 miles. All weekend, same thing, oil light off when starting, comes on on the first takeoff, blip it to 4k RPM and all is well after that.

Coming back from the weekend I drained the seafoam oil, cleaned out the oil pressure switch with carb cleaner, added Shell Rotella T4, primed and burped the filter, and it's STILL THERE! Start bike, oil light off, warm it up 20-30 seconds, take off, oil light on, rev to 4k, oil light off for the rest of the day.

Oil pressure switch gone bad? Oil lines still clogged after 1 seafoam treatment? Not warming it up long enough? What do you all think might be my next step here?

I'm almost just resigning myself to having a finnicky cold blooded bike, but I'd LIKE to not have to worry about oil pressure so that if somebody else wants to take my bike for a spin they don't have to worry about it (my bike gets off the line faster than my dad's Heritage Softail so he likes to ride it when I go back home )
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 12:18 PM
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I would try a new sender.

I'm having a similar problem, though not quite as bad, first saw it a couple of years ago. Oil light would come during warmup, then go off after a rev. Seafoam in the oil cured it for a couple of seasons.

Last Fall, oil light came on during a ride, pulled over and shut down, restarted and oil light stayed off. Yesterday during warmup, light comes on, shut down, restart, light stays off. So it seems cycling the key off/on helps whatever is happening. I suspect a sticky/dirty oil switch, but my engine is spotless inside, so maybe just a bad switch.

I'm trying a new switch, both our bikes have done this enough, they should have blown or at least have serious knocking by now. You only get a couple of mulligans with low oil pressure, we've both used ours. Got to be a switch, almost.
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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, whenever I get the light I'll pull over, put it on the center stand, get it running and then check to see that the oil sight glass goes down, that way I can verify that I'm getting oil flow even though the oil light is on. Only a few times have I had no oil flow, but that could be fixed by burping the old Supertech filter, but seems not to be as much of an issue with the Bosch.

Guess I'll be looking for a salvage part on eBay unless I can get a new old stock switch.

Hopefully somebody else might have some insight, but at least I'm not alone in the madness! Thanks for your input, Spockster.
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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 02:32 PM
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Part number is 27010-1313

27010 is on all Kawi oil switches, 1313 is the one for the VN750 and a wide range of other Kawi machines, including an atv or two. Others may fit the threads, but the pressure calibration is unknown. Did see one other part number that was 3psi.

There's no shortage of used ones on ebay, but I wonder how many sticky ones I'd have to buy first. $30 looks like the going rate for a new one.

Had considered installing a gauge, but decided only if I can get a braided line, or other safe installation. I've already been down on a Goldwing due to a massive oil leak.

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Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 01-19-2017 at 02:35 PM.
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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 04:24 PM
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edit: wrong info deleted. Oil switch has M10-1.0 threads. (see post #14)

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 02-02-2017 at 11:45 AM.
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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Nice research, and great finds! I'm waiting for an oil filler cap to come in the mail before I can ride again (my dumb ass forgot to tighten the oil cap down before taking it for a spin - lucky for me I noticed the weird noise and oil all over myself before I lost much oil) but after that comes in I'll try one of these out if you haven't already.

Please let me know how it works when you get it installed! Even if you don't, I may just try it myself and report back. $10 shipped is well worth the shot vs $30 + shipping...
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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 05:28 PM
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Will try to slap it on there as soon as I get it and report back. As long as it's not too cold to start the bike. 50-60 right now, we're having a mild winter up here.

Will need to get a hex nut for the connection, the stock one uses a machine screw. Keep the lockwasher.

edit: wrong part deleted

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 01-25-2017 at 03:28 PM.
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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 05:48 PM
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Just remembered, right before this oil light came back ...

Last summer, had a leaky petcock that filled up the crankcase with gas, a lot more than a seafoam treatment. Might have washed some gunk into the old switch. Right after rebuilding the petcock, the oil light began acting up. One or two short rides is all I did after that.

Petcock can leak through the vacuum line to the left carb, gas runs straight to the cylinder and fills the crankcase while the engine is not running..

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-19-2017, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Something like that is very possible with my bike. The petcock isn't leaky, but based on the rust, low mileage, sediment in the tank and bowls, and how wacky the carb is I think this bike sat for a looooong time. So after months/years of sitting here I come and start riding it at least 20 miles a week and maintaining/fixing everything I can get my hands on, so some nasty oil was bound to be there, and that switch is 10+ years old at this point.

Also considering just getting a remote oil pressure sender/gauge kit and mounting the gauge in a dash plate like what user Knifemaker designed, but I shouldn't get too far ahead of myself... haha
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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 03:37 PM
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Update: Switch was delivered Monday, but I goofed and ordered the wrong switch with the thread size too large, 3/8". Went back and deleted links to that piece.

Still looking to find an adapter, no luck so far but have another store to try.

Still need to verify if the VN750 oil switch is 1/8" npt or metric. So far it looks like it's M10-1.0 (metric threads). edit: threads are definitely M10-1.0

Apologies for the mixup, will edit more once I know.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 02-02-2017 at 11:44 AM.
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