Lube for reassembly - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Lube for reassembly

I knew it was going to take a while for my son and I to fix his broken shift rod. I was right. It took a long time. We kept doing more and other things. Ear shave. Setting pickup gaps. Getting new hoses. Ordering parts that weren't in stock. Other things in regular life also kept coming up but we finally got her together and fired up. I still need to sort out the clutch and we seem to have a slow off and on drip from the weep hole. I installed a new seal on the oil pump/impeller shaft and used antifreeze to lube it so I think it will sort itself out after we get a few miles on her. I did not disassemble the impeller.

One question though. I used moly lube on the camshafts so the oil is kind of murky. Any idea if moly lube will cause any problems or does anyone think we should change the oil sooner than later. I would have usually used a lithium based assembly lube on a car and not even noticed it on a dip stick but the bike has a sight glass so I can see it. Clears up after sitting for about 1/2 hour. I had originally used Lucas assembly lube no almost everything but seeing how long it was taking I wanted to be sure the lobes of the cams had protection when we finally started her. Hence the use of the moly.

Anyone else use moly for assembly?

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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I occurred to me overnight that the moly could have an adverse effect on the clutch plates so I think I will try and get it out of there ASAP.Does anyone think I will need to pull the plates to clean them in new oil again? They were coated in fresh oil initially and the bike hasn't been driven yet just started. I was going to do the final adjustment and test ride today. Going to see if the moly will drain off first as it seems to settle to the bottom of the oil leaving the sight glass clear until starting (but it may be to heavy to drain if not mixed and in suspension.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 11:26 AM
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I don't think you need to remove the plates. Thinking the moly should be diluted enough, but not sure it would cause problems anyway, and it wasn't applied directly to the plates.

If the clutch happens to slip any, you can do an early oil change. I know that simply changing oil cures slipping from using oil with friction modifiers.

I'm pretty sure the old Crane Cam lube was moly paste, have used that on bike cams.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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If it was a car motor I probably would not have even seen it. But with the sight glass the oil is murky when it is running. It was only applied where specified in the book. But a little more than I applied got put onto the cam lobes (my son thought I wiped to much off when I bent over the motor. I still do not think we used more than 2 teaspoons, if even that. I just know that, if I can have a problem I will. That if why I will live forever, probably working on this bike everyday. My life sucks.

Still it runs and the specs on everything we checked were good. I think an oil change will help. The plates were lubed using Castrol which is what I run in these bikes so they would only get what was washed off the lobes and the "bearing" surfaces of the crank a thrust sides of the cases. We used Threebond Liquid Gasket, Gray Solventless Silicone to seal the cases, purchased at the local KTM shop, and it seems to have worked well.

The only problem so far is the nanny switch on the kickstand no longer functions. To me, hooray, to my son, fix it. Oh well he rides it.

Thanks for the reply Spockster.

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