Killing multiple birds with one stone? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Killing multiple birds with one stone?

Vinny swallowed a front exhaust valve a few weeks ago. The piston took a bit of a beating, and the valve seat even more, so big brother and I will be replacing the piston, head, (gaskets of course) valve seals, blah blah blah.

Since the engine is off the frame and most areas of the bike are nicely accessible, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on other things we may want to at least take a look at while we're elbow deep in the muck - other than the area above the base-gasket. We're pretty well covered there.

So far, I've amassed the following expansive list:

1) Drive splines
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
3) Relocate R/R
4) MCCT?

I know - not a very long list, but I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or undertake nice-to-have mods. Just looking for a few high-value/moderate-cost suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkanclark View Post
Vinny swallowed a front exhaust valve a few weeks ago. The piston took a bit of a beating, and the valve seat even more, so big brother and I will be replacing the piston, head, (gaskets of course) valve seals, blah blah blah.

Since the engine is off the frame and most areas of the bike are nicely accessible, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on other things we may want to at least take a look at while we're elbow deep in the muck - other than the area above the base-gasket. We're pretty well covered there.

So far, I've amassed the following expansive list:

1) Drive splines
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
3) Relocate R/R
4) MCCT?

I know - not a very long list, but I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or undertake nice-to-have mods. Just looking for a few high-value/moderate-cost suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

I'd advise only to do the MCCT if you have good ears since there is no known way to adjust them if after putting one in finger tight you can't hear any noise.

Service manual is of no help there since the bike comes with ACCTs.

1987 VN750 California - "Lydia"
Reupholstered leather seat w/matching lockbox.
Rebuilt battery cage
Relocated R/R
AGM battery
Murican MCCT
Redesigned Rear - LED Tag/Signals/Harness
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkanclark View Post
Vinny swallowed a front exhaust valve a few weeks ago. The piston took a bit of a beating, and the valve seat even more, so big brother and I will be replacing the piston, head, (gaskets of course) valve seals, blah blah blah.

Since the engine is off the frame and most areas of the bike are nicely accessible, I wanted to get y'alls opinion on other things we may want to at least take a look at while we're elbow deep in the muck - other than the area above the base-gasket. We're pretty well covered there.

So far, I've amassed the following expansive list:

1) Drive splines
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
3) Relocate R/R
4) MCCT?

I know - not a very long list, but I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or undertake nice-to-have mods. Just looking for a few high-value/moderate-cost suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
engine already out.. do the balancers!!! (technically balance dampers)

drive splines.. thats a check and lube if needed.. replace with good used parts if needed (they aint cheap to buy new)

nothing wrong with relocating the R/R. do it if ya want.

MCCT conversion.. personal preference there. I would say do it while its out, but its not hard to do with engine in place either.

2005 VN750

Sold 11-27-17
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
2) Balancers (although I must confess I don't know exactly what to look for here)
The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
- - -

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 03:56 PM
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I'll skim back through my list to see if I've planned to replace anything you're not covering and vice versa.

For what it's worth, Lance328 used to recommend replacing the valve stem seals with viton units while the heads were apart. They're still available on eBay here:
Kawasaki VN750 VN 750 Vulcan Valve Seals Viton | eBay


Edit...
Okay, here are some things I've done or will do while things were apart:
Inspect and replace coolant hoses as needed
Replace all coolant hose o-rings
Inspect and repair the wiring harness as needed
Rebuild the starter (the kit's only $10-15)
Replace the stator (or set yourself up for future replacements with an adapter plate so you can do so by removing the outer cover)
Install a new thermostat (there's a compatible automotive thermostat but I didn't keep my notes on which so you'll have to search the forums)
Adjust the coil pickup gap
Drill the clutch basket to reduce the chance of coffee grinder noise
Replace the water pump mechanical seal
If you're splitting the case, check the oil pump chain

Hope that helps.

1986 VN750 27k miles
1999 EN500 32k
1983 GL650i in pieces. Someday it will ride again.

Last edited by calebj; 04-22-2016 at 04:05 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
If I'm reading correctly, this would involve removing the right-side cover to be able to hold the right-hand balancer bolt/shaft so that I can remove the left-gear to reach the dampers. Is that the extent of it?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calebj View Post
I'll skim back through my list to see if I've planned to replace anything you're not covering and vice versa.

For what it's worth, Lance328 used to recommend replacing the valve stem seals with viton units while the heads were apart. They're still available on eBay here:
Kawasaki VN750 VN 750 Vulcan Valve Seals Viton | eBay


Edit...
Okay, here are some things I've done or will do while things were apart:
Inspect and replace coolant hoses as needed
Replace all coolant hose o-rings
Inspect and repair the wiring harness as needed
Rebuild the starter (the kit's only $10-15)
Replace the stator (or set yourself up for future replacements with an adapter plate so you can do so by removing the outer cover)
Install a new thermostat (there's a compatible automotive thermostat but I didn't keep my notes on which so you'll have to search the forums)
Adjust the coil pickup gap
Drill the clutch basket to reduce the chance of coffee grinder noise
Replace the water pump mechanical seal
If you're splitting the case, check the oil pump chain

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the feedback!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkanclark View Post
If I'm reading correctly, this would involve removing the right-side cover to be able to hold the right-hand balancer bolt/shaft so that I can remove the left-gear to reach the dampers. Is that the extent of it?
No, it's all done from the left side.

Can hold with a strap wrench on the rotor, but most use a penny or rag stuck in the gear teeth. I used pennies, no problem, it bends the penny 90, but no sweat.

The damper gear bolt is left hand threads and has Loctite on it.

Download the manual from here if you need one.
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2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The rubber bushings on the damper gear become brittle, break, then the gear eats the side case. They can be hard to evaluate, since new ones are fairly hard. As mentioned, best to replace while the engine is out of the frame.
based on what i read ( thanks to you and others ) about tires... 6 years and the rubber is shot regardless of how far they travelled... well... if those dampers are rubber... just makes sense... may as well do them while in there.

Just curious though... has anyone ever used dampers made out of a better material than rubber?

1987 VN750 California - "Lydia"
Reupholstered leather seat w/matching lockbox.
Rebuilt battery cage
Relocated R/R
AGM battery
Murican MCCT
Redesigned Rear - LED Tag/Signals/Harness
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