Fuel gauge does not work - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel gauge does not work

I have a fuel gauge that does not work. Any idea on how to fix it?
On a other note, I just switch my ACCT to MCCT with few screws and nuts from the MCCT posting. Real easy and cheap (under $5.00)
Charles
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guggech View Post
I have a fuel gauge that does not work. Any idea on how to fix it?
On a other note, I just switch my ACCT to MCCT with few screws and nuts from the MCCT posting. Real easy and cheap (under $5.00)
Charles
There's a plug at the back left of the tank next to the frame rail. Lift the seat to find it. Your issue may be as simple as it being unplugged.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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I tried that already but it seems that something else is the issue. Is the fuel sensor inside the tank?.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 09:22 PM
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Yep. There's a traditional float arm and wiper assembly. IIRC there's an explanation and diagram in the service manual.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'll take a look. Thanks
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 03:42 AM
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To isolate the problem stick a wire between the two female plugs that is on the bike for the fuel sensor. If the gas gauge goes up then that means that the problem is with the fuel level sensor (the unit under the gas tank), but don't leave the wire on too long or you'll break your gas gauge.

If the sensor is bad then it's not the end of the world. I had a bad sender and was able to repair without getting a new one. Take the unit out and connect a multimeter to the male prongs and see if there is a connection (resistance). The resistance should change as the float goes up. More resistance when float is down and less when up.

If you get a resistance then maybe the float is bad. Maybe it's stuck or puncture and can't go up.

No resistance might mean that there is a break somewhere. On mine one of the metal connection was broken so I soldered it and got it working again. Try to pin point where the problem is by putting the multimeter leads at various point so you know where it's still connected and where the break/problem is.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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When the connector is disconnected, and the side that is connected to the Fuel gauge is shorted, the fuel gauge goes up slowly to F in about 5 seconds or so. Looking at the Clymer manual test, it say to short the wire briefly but does not say if the gauge should go up quickly.
The other end that is connected to the fuel sensor, I get about 300 ohms with a full tank and seems to change a little when the moving the bike back and forth. Is 300 ohm reasonable? Should the gauge go to F quickly when shorted?
Thanks.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by guggech View Post
When the connector is disconnected, and the side that is connected to the Fuel gauge is shorted, the fuel gauge goes up slowly to F in about 5 seconds or so. Looking at the Clymer manual test, it say to short the wire briefly but does not say if the gauge should go up quickly.
The other end that is connected to the fuel sensor, I get about 300 ohms with a full tank and seems to change a little when the moving the bike back and forth. Is 300 ohm reasonable? Should the gauge go to F quickly when shorted?
Thanks.
....all sounds good to me......but check with others.

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 09:00 PM
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Yeah both sides sounds good from what your saying. On mine the gauge goes up slow too and the resistance does change a little when bike is tilted because the gas is tilted inside affecting the float.

Maybe check for corrosion or see if both the male and female are making a proper connection with each other. Otherwise I'm out of ideas.

Don't take my word for it. I'm just a foolish newbie.
When in doubt, just know that I am only joking around.

95 VN750
Top speed is 112 mph at ~7900 rpm
Blacked out engine
Dry rusty splines finally lubed for the first time
R/R relocated to the side of fuse box
Rust removed from tank
Marbled
In line fuel filter, 23-28 micron rating
Voltmeter
Gear indicator
LED turn signals & brake light
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 09:04 PM
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For some reason I'm thinking that resistance is supposed to be 0 (full) to 100 ohms (empty) ... I'll see if I can find anything to confirm that.

Last edited by calebj; 04-10-2016 at 09:06 PM.
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