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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Wire routed

Can someone tell me how the wire that hooks up to the corner of the radiator that you can disconnect by pulling it loose to shut off the fan. How is that wire routed? I want to put a switch in line so I don't have to keep pulling that wire loose to shut off the fan when the bike isn't running.

I contacted Kawasaki and that piece cost over $100.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mrseedsower View Post
Can someone tell me how the wire that hooks up to the corner of the radiator that you can disconnect by pulling it loose to shut off the fan. How is that wire routed? I want to put a switch in line so I don't have to keep pulling that wire loose to shut off the fan when the bike isn't running.

I contacted Kawasaki and that piece cost over $100.
Wait a minute. Wouldn't it be better to fix the problem and not have a switch that can be forgotten to be turned back on and therefore is not working when needed? Just a simple opinion on my part but if that is what you want then go for it. Just be sure to tell us when you forget to turn it back on and you over heat one day. You know it will happen. Good luck.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 09:22 PM
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 09:47 PM
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and its not a hundred bucks...

can even find used ones for less, sometimes including a radiator and fan!

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
and its not a hundred bucks...

can even find used ones for less, sometimes including a radiator and fan!
Replacing a sensor seems much easier than adding a switch that may cause a problem later (including resale if that ever happens). Again it is my opinion and possibly a few others here but you may have specific reasons for going your particular route. If so, let us know or if there are other factors involved. Just trying to give you a little opposite view point so you can make proper decision for your application. You stated that you contacted Kawi concerning a replacement. Going direct will always cost you more and remember our term for the dealer: "Stealership". List your need here under the Sell and Swap heading and you may just come up with exactly what you need for a lot less money and then there is always Ebay. Feel free to follow your own thoughts now and always as it is your cycle and it should be how you want it to be. Good luck and keep posting here on your progress for this issue.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
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New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles

Last edited by Vulcan2000; 11-01-2015 at 09:14 AM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 09:48 AM
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i run a elec. fan on my ministock racecar this work very well to control the fan http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...at/267187_0_0/ set the temp where you want it to come on and forget it
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 12:22 PM
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i run a elec. fan on my ministock racecar this work very well to control the fan http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...at/267187_0_0/ set the temp where you want it to come on and forget it
Yes there are many ways to cool the radiator including plumbing the whole thing with a coil of tubing that sits inside a cooler of ice but there is a reason the engineers originally designed it a particular way. One could do anything they want to get things cooled and no one is saying you can't do to your cycle what ever you want but why go through the trouble of mounting a second switch to turn the fan on or off or the trouble to mount an electrical fan that wasn't designed to fit on the bike?

Still waiting for mrseedsower to let us know why he was thinking of adding a switch rather than fix the problem and keep the set up in the original configuration. I am sure there is a good reason other than the initial comment that Kawi quoted a cost of $100.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles

Last edited by Vulcan2000; 11-01-2015 at 12:25 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrseedsower View Post
Can someone tell me how the wire that hooks up to the corner of the radiator that you can disconnect by pulling it loose to shut off the fan. How is that wire routed? I want to put a switch in line so I don't have to keep pulling that wire loose to shut off the fan when the bike isn't running.

I contacted Kawasaki and that piece cost over $100.
I am the kind of guy that would use a separate switch for the fan also. To save a $100.00. However in this case my fan will run well after I shut off the bike during most of my summer rides. It also cycles a lot on the open road and/or around town so the fan does not run all the time. Since these bike don't have a mechanical temp gauge I think a temp related switch is best. I was able to get an extra radiator, fan, switch, thermostat housing and hoses off Ebay for way less than $100.00. It should not be that hard to do. There have been other options presented so I think you can still do it for less than the Kawasaki price. Spend some time on Google and you will find something I am sure.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 04:19 PM
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I am the kind of guy that would use a separate switch for the fan also. To save a $100.00....... I was able to get an extra radiator, fan, switch, thermostat housing and hoses off Ebay for way less than $100.00........
Exactly. If all the parts necessary plus some are available for less than $100 than why use a two bit switch which will be forgotten at least once and cause an over heating problem? I would rather pick up everything and use what I need plus have the extra parts to sell and make up the money I just spent. Sounds more like a win win situation. I have bought additional parts in the past for my 750 and ended up using them at a later time plus I sold some to make up for my initial outlay. I made a nice profit along the way plus have a good additional inventory for sale or trade in the future.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Tom
Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-02-2015, 02:33 AM
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I have had a couple of bikes that ran hot for other reasons besides the fan. Never figured it out. But I was able to partially solve the issue by wiring the fan motor directly to the ignition, which meant the fan was on whenever the engine was. Of course I believe fixing it right, the way the engineers designed it is usually the best idea. I still have my original intake and exhaust systems, including the "goats belly" OTOH, I have TOC cam chain tensioners because oem ones were junk, and a TPE stator because Kawasaki wanted almost $500 for one and TPE stators are supposed to be better. Once in a while engineers mess up too. Having to pull the engine to replace a stator is a good example of bad engineering.

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