Left balance damper replacement - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
the exhaust. If it has to do with the cooling,
engine or exhaust, discuss it here!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
Left balance damper replacement

I know there is lots of info on the subject and I also have the manual but just want to confirm something. Do I need to remove the cluch cover on the right side of the engine to remove the left balancer shaft bolt?
I'm in the process of replacing my failled stator and bought new balance dampers (all 6). I still have to remove the flywheel so I will need to go get a puller.

There is a lots on the subject but still vague on how to remove the flywheel and the damper gear. I even watched the videos but no puller is used.

I will figure it out but anything help.

Thanks in advance.
Marty 13 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
Also do I need to verify of replace anything on the right side ? I seen some post on cluch basket mod? My bike is a 2006 with 14000 miles and a failled stator. The engine is out and I will also make the ear shave mods and fix the ACCTs. The season is over and I have all winter ahead of me.
Marty 13 is offline  
post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 11:34 AM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,635
iTrader: (5)
   
The balancer gear has a left-hand threaded bolt, so it loosens the opposite direction, this bolt also gets Loctite on assembly. Don't need to open up the right side, but you will need to block the gears from turning. Some people stuff a rag in the damper/rotor gears, I used a penny, the soft copper/zinc will bend, but won't damage the gear teeth.

The large post on the damper weight fits into the the small hole on damper gear, then you align the marks on the damper/rotor. Did mine twice because I installed the large post into the large hole, that's wrong and the bike shook so bad I couldn't see the handgrips and it hopped across the floor on the centerstand.

The clutch basket mod is for coffee-grinder syndrome, but mine cleared up after running seafoam in the oil.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
 
post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks for the reply, I read about the penny or a rag so I will do that and yes I will be careful about re-installing it properly. How about removal of the flywheel? And the big bolt in the center? I asume that the big bolt need to be removed and then pry the flywheel off with a puller?
Marty 13 is offline  
post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
As for Seafoam, I never heard about running it in oil. I always used Seafoam with fuel in my small engine equipement.
Marty 13 is offline  
post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 12:06 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 6,635
iTrader: (5)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty 13 View Post
As for Seafoam, I never heard about running it in oil. I always used Seafoam with fuel in my small engine equipement.
Dosage for use in oil is on the can, I ran it 300 miles before an oil change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty 13 View Post
How about removal of the flywheel? And the big bolt in the center? I asume that the big bolt need to be removed and then pry the flywheel off with a puller?
The puller is just a bolt, same threads as the rotor (flywheel) bolt, but longer. The puller bolt gets threaded into the rotor until it bottoms against the crankshaft and pushes the rotor off.

The thread size is listed here somewhere, M18 x (something), or just look up a puller for this bike and the thread size is usually listed.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks, I should be good now and the youTube video states a 18mm x 1.5mm bolt but I wasn't sure. I will get a longer bolt and try it out. So only the damper on the left side, nothing to replace on the right?
Marty 13 is offline  
post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
How do I remove the original rotor bolt? Can I just use an impact wrench? Sorry for all these newby question, I just want to get it right.
Marty 13 is offline  
post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 07:40 PM
Giggity!
 
kanuck69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ohio, Zanesville
Posts: 4,307
iTrader: (24)
     
Garage
I used an impact & just turned my pressure down to limit the impacts effect.
Another trick for blocking the gears is to use a 1/4" ratchet extension. Fitting it into the tooth of the gear. It nicely wedges in there. Move it to the other side for tightening.
kanuck69 is offline  
post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Marty 13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)
 
Your help is really appreciated. I will try to have this done this weekend. I want to put the engine back together before it gets to cold to work in my shed. (Winter is coming here in Nova Scotia, Canada!)
I still have lots of work/modifications to do but with the help of this forum and the service manual I should be good to ride next spring.

I'm also changing the look completely by replacing the rear fender with one of a 900 Custom Vulcan and new handlebars. I will post pics if I manage to get everything done.
Marty 13 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome