Left balance damper replacement - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 07:26 AM
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Mine stayed on the crank, I did not try to remove it. I tapped on it a few times before reinstalling the rotor to make sure it was properly seated in the groove.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Spockster, you're right about the little effort but it all make sense now and it was easy with the bolt. The confusing part was to understand the difference between a longer original bolt and a 18mm puller. It got me confuse in the begining. The woodruff is still on the shaft but thanks for the heads up.

Now I have another question and hopefully there is an easy answer. I kind of move the front shaft (the one with the damper bushing on), this shaft only turns clockwise. When I put everything back togither, do I just keep turning another turn on that shaft to allign the marks? Does turning the shaft affect timing or anything else?
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 07:09 PM
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You can use a penny, or a nickel, to lock the gears in either direction. An impact wrench should get the bolt out, but you are going to need a torque wrench to put it back. I rarely use a torque wrench, but internal engine parts are an exception, IMO.

I know you are in a hurry, but it is a good idea to take your time. Imagine getting the whole bike back together and realizing you forgot to put something back inside the engine. I would at least write everything down, and cross it off as you do it. Also, it took me way longer to remove enough parts to get the engine out than removing the engine itself, and those parts have to go back. I put all the parts in plastic bags and labeled them.

Also, in order to get the airbox up high enough to be out of the way, you need to remove the front coil and wire harness connector bracket. These can be left just hanging there. You have to remove the air filter housings and the ducts that go from the air box to the housings.

With the rotor off, the balancer shaft can be turned in either direction. The reason you are not supposed to turn the engine counterclockwise is because it can damage or dislocate the cam chains. They are properly tensioned in only one direction. Upon reassembly, you will need to line up the marks. They are small and hard to see. Use a flashlight and magnifying glass if necessary. If the marks are even one tooth off it will be very noticeable. The reason for that is for timing the balancer to the engine. You check these marks after installing the balancer gear, but before installing the rotor bolt. You can put the rotor on part way and tell if the marks line up when the gears mesh. You can turn the balancer shaft either way to get them lined up.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 11-04-2015 at 07:21 PM.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 07:49 PM
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#1 - Make sure the damper gear is correctly oriented on the damper weight. The largest post on the weight, belongs in the smaller hole on the damper gear.

2 - align the mark on the damper gear with the line beside the teeth on the rotor

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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 10:45 PM
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Here's a pic of the marks aligned correctly, and the damper weight/damper gear installed incorrectly, the largest post is in the largest hole, wrong.


2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 10:50 PM
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There are a few alignment markings. Three or four throughout the engine? One on the starter clutch, one on rotor to balance gear. And that might be it, actually.
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowley1027 View Post
There are a few alignment markings. Three or four throughout the engine? One on the starter clutch, one on rotor to balance gear. And that might be it, actually.
There's also a painted stripe on the balancer shaft, yellow, blue, or white depending on the year.

The little dot near the center of the damper weight lines up with that stripe.



Again, largest post, goes in the smaller hole. I repeat because it really, really sucks seeing your bike shake so violently you can't see the handgrips as it dances across the floor on the centerstand, it sucks to grab those oscillating handgrips, and it sucks to turn right around and pull the engine again.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 11-05-2015 at 01:17 PM.
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for all your help. I will take my time for sure. This bike is a project and I can only work on it once in a while. I am curently working on my Bachelor of Technology ( yes at almost 40 years old with kids working full time and studying online 3-4 hours a night is a pain!, but it will be worth it after..Maybe :-) ) so the bike is kind of on the back burner.

Although your information is useful as I read the post before looking at the engine. I was only worried about moving the balancer shaft but feel good now as all I have to do is line them up. I did notice the paint (dot) on the gear to alling with the shaft. The woodruff key is there, and I'm aware about making sure the balancer is properly installed with the big part in the small hole.

My bike is a 2006 with only 14000 miles but since the stator was shot, I will replace the damper bushing. They seems fine but the new are looking better!

I also have all the new seals, o-rings and gasket. I just need to get a tube of blue locktite and a torque wrech. The airbox was removed as I will do the ear shave so it should makes things a little easier.

I will post a question if I need more help but so far other threads are helping also, there is a lot on here. I've owed many bikes in my life, especially sportsbikes such as Ninjas, GSX-R, CBRs, a RC51 (loved it!) and also a V-Star 1100. With the family life, they all had to go but this little VN750 is a good little project to work on while learning some new tricks. Hopefully I will have it on the road next season. I bought the Vulcan, drove it home (before the battery was out) and took it appart, I never really drove it yet!
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 12:36 AM
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 07:17 PM
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While I have loved both my Vulcan 750s more than any of the other bikes I've had as far as riding goes, IMO it does not make a great project bike. The engine is excessively complicated, and has a few design flaws. I think having to pull the engine to replace the stator is ridiculous, though a four cylinder Goldwing is the same way. I really don't like that the Vulcan has so many more parts than most other v-twin bikes have. I think an old Ironhead Sportster would make a great project. You can almost rebuild one with a hammer and a pipe wrench. Even the Yamaha Virago 750/1100 is much easier to work on. I bought my brand new Royal Enfield Bullet as a project. I've been working on it almost as much as riding it. Unfortunately it has fuel injection, but it is a retrofit. As soon as it is out of warranty (March 2016) I will be replacing that with a carburetor. The FI is too lean, and remapping it requires buying a $300 electronic device, about the same cost as installing a rejetable carb.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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