HELP!! Stator just replaced, bike won't run - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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HELP!! Stator just replaced, bike won't run

So I just replaced a dead stator and got the bike back together (with help from a few buddies), and now I can't get it started. Symptoms are a little different from most of the other similar problems I have read about on the forum. Here goes... hope I don't miss any important details...

Starter is cranking and sounds healthy - with the new stator and fully charged battery, sounds much better than it did when trying to start it before (bad stator, fully charged battery). Anyways... I cannot get it to run (even though it seems to turn over okay), and every once in a while, when trying to turn over I can hear and feel some kind of clunk or bang coming from the engine. This happens along with a hesitation... doesn't seem like the hesitation is coming from the starter, but it causes the starter to sort of bog down or something. I hope I'm describing this correctly... and this only happens with either the choke on or throttle applied. Otherwise the starter sounds very normal but will not start.

So after messing around some, and checking for hose & wire connections, everything seems normal; but I found that the front cylinder is not firing (I think, anyways... there is definitely spark to all four plugs, but the front plugs come out black & wet). I drained the front carb and tried again for a while to start it, then drained it again to confirm that fuel was flowing, and was successful in getting more fuel to drain.

I am by no means an expert with engines (especially carb-related issues), but it seems to me that this must be an airflow issue of some sort. However, I cannot find any pinched or disconnected hoses, including the vacuum and vent to the right ear. So I suppose it could also be some other crazy electrical issue... but seeing that there is spark and the plugs are brand-new, I would not know where to begin... I double-checked the pickup wires and the connection is fine. Stator wires are tight. Plug wires are not loose at the coils... etc.... Any idea what I'm missing?

Maybe I should mention that the clutch hasn't been adjusted properly yet - I adjusted the cable & lever and have the proper amount of play in the lever, and what seems like the right amount of tension (the clutch release lever seems to move correctly), but I cannot get the shifter to move out of neutral. At first, it would go between neutral and first gear, but now it feels like it's in first when pushing down even though it's actually in neutral... and it still will not shift up into second. This is a little off-putting to me, but once I mess around with the adjustment I'm sure it will be normal. Pretty sure it has nothing to do with the starting/running issue, but thought I should mention it just in case. I wanted to get the bike running and check the stator output before worrying about this kind of thing...

The only other thing I can add, for the sake of not leaving out any details, is that I was able to get it started and "running" for about ten seconds on one occasion by holding at WOT, and it died when I let off. While it was running it sounded extremely strained since it was only on one cylinder.

Sorry if this is too much information... but I could really use the help here. I haven't been able to ride at all yet this season due to the stator being dead, and now this... I'm hoping it will be a simple fix, or something I may have forgotten to put back together properly. Keep in mind, none of these symptoms existed before the stator was replaced - even with the stator dead and a charged battery, the bike ran normally until it died from the lack of charge... which reminds me - I replaced and relocated the r/r as well.

I'll shut up now. Ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 11:22 AM
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Before you start down a rabbit hole, check the pick up coils.

You could have damaged the wiring when installing the new stator. If you damaged the one for the front cylinder that would account for your issue. This could lead to weak or no spark.

The only other thing that jumps to mind is a stuck float in the carbs, flooding the front cyl.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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What is the best way to test this? I can't do electrical testing myself, but have a friend who can come over with a meter... just need to know how to test and what to look for.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 12:34 PM
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and all of your spark plugs are going to the right cylinder. Don't laugh.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofyfoot2001 View Post
and all of your spark plugs are going to the right cylinder. Don't laugh.
Not laughing... like I said, I'm not as experienced as I wish I was with this stuff... but I did go back over all the "obvious" stuff like this. It's really bothering me since this wasn't an issue before, so I know I did something wrong putting everything back together.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 02:25 PM
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Are you sure you put the pickups in the right location....if you crossed them it will not run.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are correct... is there a meter test I can do to rule this out, so I don't have to drain the oil and open the cover again? I have a friend coming over with his meter and it seems like that would be the quicker & easier way to check.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan04 View Post
I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are correct... is there a meter test I can do to rule this out, so I don't have to drain the oil and open the cover again? I have a friend coming over with his meter and it seems like that would be the quicker & easier way to check.
A visual inspection is all that's required. You can take the stator cover off with the 3 screws. If you did not use a mod plate, it should just have a rubber seal that you can re-use. You may lose some oil; do it on the center stand.

I really think the idea of them being backwards is probably the most likely culprit. Swap em around and try to start the bike (after putting the stator side cover on).

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 05:22 PM
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Remove and dry your spark plugs. reinstall and try to start engine.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 05:23 PM
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Also crank engine without the plugs to help get extra gas out of cylinders.

02 honda sabre 1100
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