No thermostat, still over heats - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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No thermostat, still over heats

Ok, i'm having a bit of a stumper.
I've still got overheating issues...even after having removed
the thermostat. I'm beginning to wonder if im running
lean at high rpms/speeds. It seems to be when the bike wants to
overheat the most often.

I had my fan sensor go bad and i've ran a toggle switch to compensate.
If im in stop and go traffic...i flip it on when i sense the beast is getting
a bit toasty. However, long (fast) trips ...above 65 mph... she wants to puke
coolant even with running the fan intermittently.

I've got ear shave done, and rejetted, etc etc... all that jazz.

Any thoughts?

"95 FrankenBike 750VN
Jetted/Coastered/Shaved
Chopped/Bobbed
Splines Lubed
Tank Kreemed
Drag Bars w/risers
Instrument cluster customized
Frame powder coated
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 09:08 AM
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oil not pumping?

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 09:38 AM
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Put a new thermostat in and a new radiator cap, the radiator cap is an important part of the system if the spring gets week or fails they will puke coolant out way toe early . Believe it or not no thermostat will make it run hotter , the coolant doesn't have any restriction and the water goes through the radiator faster than it can lose heat. tour T stat may be good, test it with a pan of water on the stove and a meat thermometer and see if it opens up at near the proper temp range. Just don't let the thermometer or the T stat against the bottom or side of the pan suspend them with a string and a big spoon laying across the top of the pan(just don't let your old lady catch you with her cooking stuff,bad juju ).

I am betting you have bad rad. cap, either the gasket or spring. Good luck.




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Last edited by denny6006; 06-23-2014 at 09:42 AM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 11:03 AM
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it may also be possible that you have restricted lines or an air pocket in the system.

Did you flush the system...not just the radiatior?

There are 2 bleed screws on the engine for filling the system....you fill to the point where coolant comes out the engine drain, then insert plug and keep filling to the top. This helps from getting air trapped in the tiny internal lines.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 10:22 PM
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Where exactly r the 2 bleed screws on the motor?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2014, 01:23 PM
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trying to source a photo for reference....they are on the jugs

EDIT: see this thread and reference step 8 in the instructions with photos.

Last edited by kc2dgq; 06-24-2014 at 01:26 PM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2014, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, that all makes sense... i'll prolly do a complete once thru to see if i have any issues.......i've ordered a new rad cap.... i'll get a new t'stat too.
See if my results are any different.

"95 FrankenBike 750VN
Jetted/Coastered/Shaved
Chopped/Bobbed
Splines Lubed
Tank Kreemed
Drag Bars w/risers
Instrument cluster customized
Frame powder coated
Engine/exhaust blacked
Seat recovered
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-24-2014, 05:26 PM
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One other thing. Look to see if you can see through the front of the radiator. Hold a light behind it if needed. You front tire slings road grin up into the radiator cooling fins along with it caughting bugs and can be stopped up to the point air cannot pass through it to do it's job. If you cannot see good unrestricted light through it, it wouldn't cool.
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