no coolant in radiator - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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no coolant in radiator

Hi everyone, sorry in advance for my bad english. I have a problem with my coolant. I have a vn750 1985. Here's the problem: There is no coolant going down the radiator, not at all. If I fill it with the cap that is on the top, just in front of the gas tank, it will do white smoke. Can it be something else than the cylinder head gasket? If it's this gasket, is it that hard to change? and I also heard about the product of Blue Devil , here's the link http://store.gobluedevil.com/pour-n-...-sealer-00209/ Do you think this product could work on my bike?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 09:56 PM
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Don't run the bike without coolant. Sounds like its leaking into engine. A sealant is not the way to go. You need to find out where it is leaking and have it fixed. Is hopefully just the gasket.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 01:35 AM
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Agreed, do not run the bike until you get this fixed.

When you fill the radiator as you mentioned, how quickly is it emptying? How much fluid are you putting back in?

The white smoke does make it sound like it is the gasket leaking into the cylinders, however, it's possible that that two are unrelated. Is it smoking from both mufflers, or just one?

In the event that the leek is not the gaskets, you will need to find the source of the leak. check around the outside of the engine looking for any drips. Check the hoses to make sure they are securely clamped in place and not cracked and leaking. If it is a gasket issue and it is leaking into the crank case, then there is a fair chance that the coolant is getting into the oil. I would recommend draining the oil to see what it looks like.

If it is a gasket that needs changing, this will be a decent amount of work. You will need to completely remove the engine from the frame to get the head off, whether it be one or both that you need to do.
This will of course then involve having to time the engine/cams once you put the head back on.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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The smoke is coming from both pipes so I guess the problem is in both cylinder. When you tell me to look for a drip, it's a drip on the exterior of the engine? because I m already losing oil from somewhere in the bottom of the engine. Ok, I will tell you a bit more about the bike. I am running it since the beginning of the season apparently without coolant. I only do short trips (5-6 miles) because I knew that my radiator fan wasn't starting. My bike was running well (on short distance). The sensor was in two parts and the relay wasn't working either. I change the heat sensor, I did an independent relay with an independent fuse. It's from there that I realize yesterday that I have a bigger problem. I was already planing to rebuild the engine this winter to have the time to do it because the summer here in Quebec is short, I don't know too much about mechanic and I don't want to lose one or two weeks waiting for parts and rebuilding this. I only read good reviews about the product, do you think it could make it last until next winter? or do you think it could be bad for the engine and it will be a pain in the ass when I will rebuild it after.

Two more quick questions: timing the engine and the cams, is it possible if I am not an expert? It's my first bike and I never did that. I have my clymer and I know I can get a lot of help from here. I know that I will need another pair of hands But I can find this.

Other question: I heard about liquid gasket but I am very skeptical about it. What do you think of this? If if really work it could save me a lot of money because right know I don't have much, and this is another reason why I want to wait till the winter.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yennk View Post
I only read good reviews about the product, do you think it could make it last until next winter?
I don't think a band-aid style fix will be appropriate if you're literally burning coolant out of both cylinders. If that is indeed the case, a rebuild (at least to replace the gasket) will be needed. The others can help track that down, but from what you're describing, you have a fairly bad blown gasket.

Based on our thin cooling pathways I'd think that you'd run the risk of clogging your cooling system with those products.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 02:21 PM
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None of this explains why it isn't going into the radiator. It should still be getting to the radiator, maybe not staying there for long but something has to be getting there unless maybe the thermostat is closed?

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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It's get to the radiator when I add some because my fan is working when it's hot. But I will burn it all until there is no more coolant in it if I let my engine run.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yennk View Post
It's get to the radiator when I add some because my fan is working when it's hot. But I will burn it all until there is no more coolant in it if I let my engine run.
Ah ok. Yep best not run that pup till ya figure that one out.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014, 10:38 PM
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I don't think this is the op's case but its worth mentioning. You can get white smoke outta the exhaust if the carbs are getting too much clean air (humidity/steam) like if the ears are not seated properly. Also I had a spare motor that needed fixing. The person I got the motor from knew nothing of its past. When I took it apart there were signs of a blown head gasket and the passageways in the cylinders were gel'd/clogged up from using a non silicate free coolant.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 02:10 AM
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Could be as simple as the water pump seal.....no ? mon ami ?....



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