2000 750 Timing and Cylinder bolt Torque Specs - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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2000 750 Timing and Cylinder bolt Torque Specs

as the title suggests, i need:

timing specs as I am having the valve push rods replaced ...
and the torque specs for any of the bolts required to be removed to access the push rods.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 03:21 PM
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push rods... lemme see, last time *I* seen a push rod was when I was helping a friend build a big block chevy...

there are no 'push rods' in the conventional sense on the 750. details on the valve train are:

4 valves per cylinder
double over head cam (4 cams total, 2 in each head)
chain driven cams (2 chains for each cylinder)

grab a manual for the bike and it will have all the details for disassembly, torque, how to set timing, the whole 9 yards..

btw, you can download it for free!

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 03:24 PM
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https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28793

this is the link for torque values, hope it helps

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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hrmmm... no push rods huh >.<
Curious as to what the loud tapping is that seems to come from the top of the cylinder? O.o

It wasn't an instantaneous tapping ... it gradually became worse as I was riding.

What happened was the throttle got stuck a little over half open and as I was gaining speed upwards near 80-90mph I didn't want to hit anyone in front of me, so I pulled the clutch in, depressed the brakes and hit the kill switch.... unfortunately since i pulled the clutch in (like a dumbass ... was in a bit of panic lol) the engine redlined at about 11 almost 12k rpm for about 4-5 seconds.

I got the throttle free after a bit of toying (damn hose clamps :/) and rode it home ... on the way home the tapping was slightly noticeable. When I got home, shut it off, let it cool for a bit ... I came back out, started it up and the tapping was LOUD... it didn't sound anything like a rod knock. It was firing on both cylinders so i don't think its a thrown rod.

I found a video of a 1985 Vulcan 750 rebuild and it showed how to set the timing, piston top dead center and the exhaust\intake cam positions so i assume this would apply to my 2000 model since the engine hasn't changed much.

It didn't go into great detail on all the torque specs for bolts, except for the ones that were removed.


Appreciate the link to the torque spec guide, that'll help tremendously.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeSon View Post
hrmmm... no push rods huh >.<
Curious as to what the loud tapping is that seems to come from the top of the cylinder? O.o

It wasn't an instantaneous tapping ... it gradually became worse as I was riding.

What happened was the throttle got stuck a little over half open and as I was gaining speed upwards near 80-90mph I didn't want to hit anyone in front of me, so I pulled the clutch in, depressed the brakes and hit the kill switch.... unfortunately since i pulled the clutch in (like a dumbass ... was in a bit of panic lol) the engine redlined at about 11 almost 12k rpm for about 4-5 seconds.

I got the throttle free after a bit of toying (damn hose clamps :/) and rode it home ... on the way home the tapping was slightly noticeable. When I got home, shut it off, let it cool for a bit ... I came back out, started it up and the tapping was LOUD... it didn't sound anything like a rod knock. It was firing on both cylinders so i don't think its a thrown rod.

I found a video of a 1985 Vulcan 750 rebuild and it showed how to set the timing, piston top dead center and the exhaust\intake cam positions so i assume this would apply to my 2000 model since the engine hasn't changed much.

It didn't go into great detail on all the torque specs for bolts, except for the ones that were removed.


Appreciate the link to the torque spec guide, that'll help tremendously.
Tapping ? or clattering ?
Have you checked the ACCT's ?
Search the threads for ACCT fix / read up about ...prior to any tear down.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
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Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
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Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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haven't checked the acct.

its hard to describe how it sounds ... its a lot more like a synchronized tap vs a random clatter. Then again, it could be a clatter because sometimes you can hear a couple other quiet like taps just before or after the main louder tap. it comes from the top of the cylinder.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 05:07 PM
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your in the panhandle I see...

there are a couple people in northern florida (over near jacksonville) that would be close to than I am (I way down near Port Charlotte).

the ACCT's when they go, will allow the cam chains to slap around a lot.. it is somewhat rhythmic tho, as the valves are opening and closing, the chains undergo a lot of different forces.

Not saying there isnt a top end problem, the HLA's could be going/gone, or maybe you damaged followers...

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
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Tapping ? or clattering ?
Have you checked the ACCT's ?
Search the threads for ACCT fix / read up about ...prior to any tear down.

yup, rule out the easy stuff before diving into the guts of the beast

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the guy I have working on it is a more patient grease monkey than I am so I figured this would be something I would rather more experienced hands to have the reigns of.

He has mentioned to me when I first told him of the issue and he heard it running\tapping that it could be as simple as a chain guide slapping around... so I imagine he is still going to get into the top of the cylinder where the rockers are and check things out as well as the acct.

I need to get a new O-ring for the thermostat housing ... before I took it down to him, I had to change the coolant hose that plugs into the metal tube that is stupidly secured by 1 bolt ... all I did was remove the hose and put a new one on and all of a sudden it spits coolant out of that joint ... makes me mad when the slightest touch breaks something lol.


Had this dern bike running just right till that throttle stuck. :/


Whats the difference between the ACCT and MCCT? What does swapping over to the MCCT accomplish in terms of noise, reliability, etc.?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 06:08 PM
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as far as the difference between the ACCT and the MCCT, the ACCT is the automatic one (stock from factory, and it will eventually fail, there is a spring in it that dies). the MCCT is a manual one, you basically adjust it when its installed, then forget about it for thousands of miles when it may need adjusting again..

oh, btw.. ACCT=Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner, MCCT=Manual Cam Chain Tensioner.

work on the ACCT/MCCT is easy, and does not need any engine pull or even major parts pulled from it. they are on the back side of each cylinder, the front one is easy to see, rear one a little tougher (its kinda hidden by the coolant bottle). 2 bolts each to remove/replace

that o-ring you need is a pretty common problem, if you need to seperate that joint for any reason, and sometimes just movement there will cause it to leak.

when you go to replace it, make sure to clean the surfaces (both the part the o ring goes on, and the housing itself), good. else it will leak again. been there, done that, even with a new o ring. my 2005 had a some deposits and small amount of corrosion in that area, so I can probably guess yours does too.

I got my o ring out of an assortment I got from the local autobone store.

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