Acct to Manual - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 81 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Converting Acct to Manual

Ok Step one... Realize you have a problem.

Here's the parts used for the new "Manual" cct.
Added Content:This part "Must" be used.

The bolt will then press against this instead of the head/pin.



The asembled Manual. The thread count for the bolt (update when I remember) The length used here is 4" I cut it down to 3.5" (now modified down to about 1 1/2"). The only a deturant is the overflow tank hits the bolt. Solution, once adjusted mark the amount of excess & cut it out. Also, replace the short bolt holding on the resivoir with a longer one. On the backside of the resivoir add a couple nuts to create a spacer. this will push the resivoir out a little clearing the shorter bolt. If done right, there's actually enough room to adjust the bolt.

A rubber/metal combined washer and a nut with the nylon end to help lock the position of the bolt. Once the bolt it the right length. Back it out and apply black high temp silicone to help seal the rear MCCT.

You can see how the bolt goes through the old housing. The plunger is simply resting on the other side, held by the retaining ring. The bolt controls the plunger depth.

Here's the front cylinder. & next the parts to hold onto if you ever want to cenvert back! Obviously with new springs though!
Please disregard the threaded sections in the pic. The pic was taken before the update. Obviously

Last edited by kanuck69; 03-09-2010 at 09:49 PM. Reason: More appropreate title.
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post #2 of 81 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 08:31 PM
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Great pictures of the whole operation. I have been thinking how you could easily covert the ACCT to MCCT. One other post a guy taped out the housing and then installed a new bolt, like you did. With your convertion there is no drilling, just find the right size bolt and in stall. Is this how and what you did. I would think the manuel ones would be a lot better for the bike. I had looked up the new MCCT that they are selling, and it seemed to me that we could do something like you did. And it would be a lot cheaper, I think they wanted about 50 dollors for just one. Thank you for the great pictures.

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post #3 of 81 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I've got about $4.00 invested. I simply took the "Cap Bolt" to the acct with me to the store to find the right Metric Thread. So far everything is working great but the rear one at the down ward angle fills with oil. I hoped the rubber washer would seal against the bolt but it leaks alittle. Still thinkin about it. This is only my first attempt.
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post #4 of 81 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanuck69 View Post
Thanks! I've got about $4.00 invested. I simply took the "Cap Bolt" to the acct with me to the store to find the right Metric Thread. So far everything is working great but the rear one at the down ward angle fills with oil. I hoped the rubber washer would seal against the bolt but it leaks alittle. Still thinkin about it. This is only my first attempt.
I hadn't thought about doing it that way. Great idea!!
I was going to do it like Weh mentioned.
As for the leaking oil, maybe some teflon tape on the bolt threads or just some RTV sealant?


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post #5 of 81 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 06:45 AM
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Maybe a metal washer on top of the ruber washer to compress it better than just the nut itself. Is the original o-ring still in the end?
I read alot of warnings of striping out the Acct from overtightening so I wouldn't have thought of using the threads in the end of the ACCT. Nice Job!!

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post #6 of 81 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yes. The origional "O-Ring" is still in there. I figured with the flat rubber washer with a tight fit around the bolt being compressed between the nut and the o-ring, it would seal alright. And on the front cylinder it's fine. But the thought of a little teflon on the rear... Good Idea Hyper. Thanks.
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post #7 of 81 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 01:58 AM
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I know you've got some other problems now, but did you get that leak stopped on the right side CCT?

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post #8 of 81 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, till the bike is running (Waiting on a drive shaft) I havn't messed with it. I will soon thoght!
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post #9 of 81 (permalink) Old 09-04-2007, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, Now that I'm back mechanicaly. I'll be working on getting this figured out! Thanks All!
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post #10 of 81 (permalink) Old 09-05-2007, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj31702 View Post
Maybe a metal washer on top of the ruber washer to compress it better than just the nut itself. Is the original o-ring still in the end?
I read alot of warnings of striping out the Acct from overtightening so I wouldn't have thought of using the threads in the end of the ACCT. Nice Job!!
I used the metal washer from a self tapping screw that has a rubber washer stuck to it. You know the the screws that are used on metal roof tin. I combined it with the excisting rubber "O" ring, I have no leak. I also used shorted screws.

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