broken exhaust stud pt2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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broken exhaust stud pt2

The saga continues

After breaking a drill bit off on the first manifold and finding out that the machine shops won't touch a stud with a drill bit in it I bought a manifold on eBay.

Guess, what. Both studs were broken off on it too! So I did some experimenting....

Stud 1: I soaked it in liquid wrench and then put my stud extractor on it. The first extractor I used is the type that has the grips that you tighten down first. I got it good and tight and then started to turn. It smoothed the stud but didn't loosen it. Then I used my cam style extractor which promptly twisted the stud off flush.

Stud 2: Soaked in DOT 3 over night. Then I hit it with a torch until the manifold was red, I wicked in some bee's wax and then hit the stud with an ice cube. Then I put the stud extractor on it after it cooled and it twisted the stud off flush.

So, aside from spending hours drilling these large enough to drop a coil in, I really don't see them being fixable. I"m going to try another ebay wrecker and zoom in on the pics to double check the studs aren't broken.

-Robert
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 01:50 AM
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using the posted tool, I have never ever had a failed stud come out (as long as there was enough stud left to protrude from the top of the tool

if there isn't enough stud, I take a cutting wheel and cut the stud off flush, once the stud is flush, drill the hole for the appropriate extractor using a left handed drill bit (cuts counter clockwise)

if the drill bit doesn't snag it and the extractor doesn't snag it, then I drill it out two sizes smaller than the original hole and clean up the threads with a tap... my methods have never failed me...
if the
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
using the posted tool, I have never ever had a failed stud come out (as long as there was enough stud left to protrude from the top of the tool
Quote:
if there isn't enough stud, I take a cutting wheel and cut the stud off flush, once the stud is flush, drill the hole for the appropriate extractor using a left handed drill bit (cuts counter clockwise)
Quote:
if the drill bit doesn't snag it and the extractor doesn't snag it, then I drill it out two sizes smaller than the original hole and clean up the threads with a tap... my methods have never failed me...
....has alway's worked for me.
....just sayin'


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 09:04 AM
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then I drill it out two sizes smaller than the original hole and clean up the threads with a tap.
I'm with slim on this one,you can buy the right size bit and drill slowly without a lot of pressure or speed. And you can probably get the bit and tap for less than another manifold and you already have two, if you mess up on the first one.




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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
using the posted tool, I have never ever had a failed stud come out (as long as there was enough stud left to protrude from the top of the tool

if there isn't enough stud, I take a cutting wheel and cut the stud off flush, once the stud is flush, drill the hole for the appropriate extractor using a left handed drill bit (cuts counter clockwise)

if the drill bit doesn't snag it and the extractor doesn't snag it, then I drill it out two sizes smaller than the original hole and clean up the threads with a tap... my methods have never failed me...
if the
The above extractor is what I have and it twisted the studs off flush.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 11:04 AM
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As I posted earlier in this thread, heat is the only way. Especially when a steel stud/bolt is in aluminum. The way to look at it , all of this drilling/extractors/etc is after you have failed.

I have an oxyacetylene torch and typically use a large welding tip. Heat the bolt/stud itself cherry red. Let it cool until the color is gone and try to remove it. Do not try hard or aggressively. Reheat and try as many times as necessary.

Most do not have the ability or means necessary to remove things broken flush. If it is an expensive piece, take it to a competent machine shop. Piece of cake for them. Most have no way to drill the center of a flush break.

This episode has traveled a predictable path.

edit- I see this is a new thread. Same topic and I believe the same poster.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 12:22 PM
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Hitting it with ice before trying to twist was a mistake. Keep it hot. The heating/cooling I mentioned previously is just to wick lube into the threads.

What's the deal with the machine shops? I know they ain't what they used to be, but damn. There's a tool called a drill extractor and drill bits can be drilled too.

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