balancer dampers - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Angry balancer dampers

hi guys, is it possible to change the balancer dampers without pulling the engine out.

all the best Steve
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 12:17 PM
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Mmmm......nope sry

But it isnt as hard as you think it is going to be and the job doesn't take all that long to do.

2003 vn750
1988 Pontiac Trans Am (project/driver)
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 12:23 PM
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No.
To access / replace balance dampers (6 rubbers) you must pull the Stator / Balance Damper cover...
...the left frame prevents cover being pulled w/o pulling/or just tilting the engine.

btw: Balance damper bolt is LH threaded bolt.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 02-25-2014 at 01:35 PM.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Okay thanks for the info, i thought the engine would have to come out, there is a knocking coming from the bottom of the engine louder if you stand on the left side of the bike is there anything else that might cause this apart from the dampers or bigends.

steve
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 01:07 PM
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If its a ticking or clacking sound it would suggest the acct's or lifters a knock as you say would suggest the dampers or rod bearings (big ends) or possibly a stuck valve, either way you should not run the bike till problem is fixed. Does your bike vibrate more then usual? Pulling the engine and fixing the dampers really isn't that difficult as mentioned above.


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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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i did put some more tension on the acct's but the knocking is at the bottom of the engine, the oil presure light goes straight out when you start it, with a bigend going i would expect a drop in presure, as for vibration i dont know when i got the bike the carbs were removed along with other parts so all i have done is put the carbs back on and got it running.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEVEUK View Post
Okay thanks for the info, i thought the engine would have to come out, there is a knocking coming from the bottom of the engine louder if you stand on the left side of the bike is there anything else that might cause this apart from the dampers or bigends.

steve

Advise you not to run the engine until diagnosed...
if the knock is your Balance damper rubbers, the Balance damper itself can/will become damaged (nubs break off).

pics of my damage are in my Avatar Photo Album....


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 02-27-2014 at 01:39 PM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 04:47 PM
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Have you checked your oil? If the dampers have failed you should see rubber bits in your oil screen when you drain it.
Also, the engine doesn't have to come completely out. Disconnect everything as if your going to remove it & you will be able to cock it to the right enough for the stator case bolts to be removed. Then you have access.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanuck69 View Post
Have you checked your oil? If the dampers have failed you should see rubber bits in your oil screen when you drain it.
Also, the engine doesn't have to come completely out. Disconnect everything as if your going to remove it & you will be able to cock it to the right enough for the stator case bolts to be removed. Then you have access.
If you do this procedure, or a full engine pull for that matter make sure you do not bang the shift shaft on anything (frame), if you do you can bend the shaft or ruin the oil seal which means a case split for repair.


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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Well drained the oil the screen was trashed some of the mesh was in the oil drain cap was at the end off the passage way, i found 1 piece of rubber looked to be from on of the 2 damper with the grooves. started taking the bike to bits to remove the engine.

steve
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