Front Cam Chain Adjuster - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Front Cam Chain Adjuster

I want to remove the front cam chain adjustor on my 2002 VN to get better access to the bottom plate on the carb to remove the pilot jet and clean it.

Is it a big deal to remove and replace? The shop manual makes it a big deal rather than just removing the two bolts......pull out the adjustor.....put adjustor back in........replace the bolts.

What is the easy way to do this without breaking anything?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 08:26 AM
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not a big deal..

carefully bend the tab for the outer oil line when you remove the bolt that secures it..

remove the tensioner.

reinstalling is a little different, but not bad

if you still have the stock spring loaded tensioners, you need to remove the small bolt on the end to access the tensioner screw (dont loose the o-ring seal). then using a small screw driver, screw the tensioner back in. Now the tricky part.. need to keep the tensioner screwed in while reinstalling it. (they make a special 'tool' for this, but I did it without. Just hold the screwdriver and install it and put in 1 of the bolts (both if you can), then you can release the screwdriver to allow the spring to unwind, reinstall the small bolt (make sure o-ring is there for seal)

if you have modified (search for MCCT conversion for details) or an aftermarket manual adjuster, then just back the adjustment off while your reinstalling. then readjust tensioner

in either case, you dont really need to resecure that tab on the outer oil line, but you can if you choose.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 02:09 PM
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If your acct is a manual, you should not have to adjust it to reinstall it.
I've had my manual's out several times with no need to readjust.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 03:22 PM
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When I switched to manual tensioners, I used a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel to cut that tab off. You have to be VERY careful not to nick the oil line. When I got the tensioner off, and could get to it a lot easier, I used the Dremel to smooth out the edges of my cut. The oil line does not need that support. Mine is not the least bit loose. The reason I chose to cut it rather than bend it, is because that tab is fairly thick, and does not bend real easy. I was afraid of twisting or cracking the oil line trying to bend it. Replacing the oil line requires pulling the engine.


As far as what you have in mind, I have done it, but I will not likely do it again. It was the most frustrating job I have ever done on the Vulcan. It is almost impossible to get a straight shot at things, and it is really easy to damage the jets if your screwdriver slips. A small mirror and a flexible screwdriver would probably help, but I didn't have either one at the time. The main jet/emulsion tube can be removed in one piece with an 8mm socket, but it has to be a really thin walled socket. I had to grind one down to make it fit. I also ground 2 flat spots at the bottom end, so it could be turned with an open end wrench, as there is no room for a ratchet.

But here is what really pissed me off. After doing all that, I still wound up pulling the carbs and completely disassembling them anyway. They needed a good thorough cleaning. I'm still waiting for the little cotter pins to arrive at the dealer so I can put everything back together and get the carbs back on the bike.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
not a big deal..

carefully bend the tab for the outer oil line when you remove the bolt that secures it..

remove the tensioner.

reinstalling is a little different, but not bad

if you still have the stock spring loaded tensioners, you need to remove the small bolt on the end to access the tensioner screw (dont loose the o-ring seal). then using a small screw driver, screw the tensioner back in. Now the tricky part.. need to keep the tensioner screwed in while reinstalling it. (they make a special 'tool' for this, but I did it without. Just hold the screwdriver and install it and put in 1 of the bolts (both if you can), then you can release the screwdriver to allow the spring to unwind, reinstall the small bolt (make sure o-ring is there for seal)

if you have modified (search for MCCT conversion for details) or an aftermarket manual adjuster, then just back the adjustment off while your reinstalling. then readjust tensioner

in either case, you dont really need to resecure that tab on the outer oil line, but you can if you choose.
Thanks for the info. How far do I screw the adjuster in? All the way?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 08:49 AM
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the automatic adjuster is spring loaded, need to retract it fully (tightening the spring) while installing, then releasing will set the tension.

manual adjuster, just back off a small amount (or leave it set as previously mentioned). then when you start it you readjust it to quiet the cam chains (taking up the slack). do NOT run the engine with the adjuster set too loose, the cam chains can jump timing then. if manual adjusters, and you back them off a lot, make sure you tighten them up until you feel a little resistance before starting the engine.
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