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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
When I switched to manual tensioners, I used a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel to cut that tab off. You have to be VERY careful not to nick the oil line. When I got the tensioner off, and could get to it a lot easier, I used the Dremel to smooth out the edges of my cut. The oil line does not need that support. Mine is not the least bit loose. The reason I chose to cut it rather than bend it, is because that tab is fairly thick, and does not bend real easy. I was afraid of twisting or cracking the oil line trying to bend it. Replacing the oil line requires pulling the engine.
As far as what you have in mind, I have done it, but I will not likely do it again. It was the most frustrating job I have ever done on the Vulcan. It is almost impossible to get a straight shot at things, and it is really easy to damage the jets if your screwdriver slips. A small mirror and a flexible screwdriver would probably help, but I didn't have either one at the time. The main jet/emulsion tube can be removed in one piece with an 8mm socket, but it has to be a really thin walled socket. I had to grind one down to make it fit. I also ground 2 flat spots at the bottom end, so it could be turned with an open end wrench, as there is no room for a ratchet.
But here is what really pissed me off. After doing all that, I still wound up pulling the carbs and completely disassembling them anyway. They needed a good thorough cleaning. I'm still waiting for the little cotter pins to arrive at the dealer so I can put everything back together and get the carbs back on the bike.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike