She's alive! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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She's alive!

So a few months back I set out to replace the stator the old fashion way by pulling the motor. I did it this way because i believed the muddy looking stuff in my cooling water and the over heating was due to a leaky head gasket.

For those of you who are avid followers of this site subsequently read my post about ripping the head off of the reverse threaded bolt on the end of the balancing shaft.

Well, I split the crank, and got it all back together, got it back in the bike and SHE'S ALIVE! cranked her over with no gas for a good amount of time to get the oil circulating then turned the gas on and she fired. Not right up, but still.

I'm in the final fine tuning and i have some questions.....

1. I did an ear shave when i was putting it all back together and is there suppose to be noticably more engine noise? it doesn't sound clicky like valves or timing chains or anything, nor exhaust noise, just like loud haha. Hard to explain. I just want to make sure its not a problem from my rebuild.

2. The elbow that comes out of the right cover that goes into the crank case between the jugs leaks, i really dont want to pull the cover off the side and this motor WILL NOT go thru another rebuilt as far as i'm concerned. I was going to just JB Weld around it and call it a day but does anyone have any better ideas? The previous rebuild that someone else did involved a pile of O rings there that i replaced with gasket maker that i guess i didn't use enough of.

3. I replaced the stator with one from TPE and the voltage at the battery while running is still under 13V, i've heard lots of claims that his are suppose to be like 14V. Even while holding at 3K it wont go over 13V. should i just replace the R/R. It looked new and the previous owner said he replaced it so i believed him. If i do i've got my eye on a MOSFET universal conversion.

Theres a big difference between starting in the driveway and reliable daily driver but considering the rebuild was done by me and my buddy, which for all practical purposes was a science project over many 30 packs of busch, starting a reving is a big step in the right direction.

Thanks for the info, i couldn't have done it with out this forum
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 08:21 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgell001 View Post
So a few months back I set out to replace the stator the old fashion way by pulling the motor. I did it this way because i believed the muddy looking stuff in my cooling water and the over heating was due to a leaky head gasket.

For those of you who are avid followers of this site subsequently read my post about ripping the head off of the reverse threaded bolt on the end of the balancing shaft.

Well, I split the crank, and got it all back together, got it back in the bike and SHE'S ALIVE! cranked her over with no gas for a good amount of time to get the oil circulating then turned the gas on and she fired. Not right up, but still.

I'm in the final fine tuning and i have some questions.....

1. I did an ear shave when i was putting it all back together and is there suppose to be noticably more engine noise? it doesn't sound clicky like valves or timing chains or anything, nor exhaust noise, just like loud haha. Hard to explain. I just want to make sure its not a problem from my rebuild.

2. The elbow that comes out of the right cover that goes into the crank case between the jugs leaks, i really dont want to pull the cover off the side and this motor WILL NOT go thru another rebuilt as far as i'm concerned. I was going to just JB Weld around it and call it a day but does anyone have any better ideas? The previous rebuild that someone else did involved a pile of O rings there that i replaced with gasket maker that i guess i didn't use enough of.

3. I replaced the stator with one from TPE and the voltage at the battery while running is still under 13V, i've heard lots of claims that his are suppose to be like 14V. Even while holding at 3K it wont go over 13V. should i just replace the R/R. It looked new and the previous owner said he replaced it so i believed him. If i do i've got my eye on a MOSFET universal conversion.

Theres a big difference between starting in the driveway and reliable daily driver but considering the rebuild was done by me and my buddy, which for all practical purposes was a science project over many 30 packs of busch, starting a reving is a big step in the right direction.

Thanks for the info, i couldn't have done it with out this forum
1. idk
2. yeah, not uncommon O'Ring replacement.
3. yes, your words are correct. Suggest you check ALL electrical connections AND perform the electrical Stator/RR check which is well documented in the verse's. This should attain your proper readings.
Keep up the progress.



'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 09:28 PM
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1. carb noise: sounds alright at full throttle, annoying at part throttle IMO. (like a weird mutated duck)

2. new o-rings are a must

3. What is your standing battery voltage? If it's not fully charged, you won't see 14.5v when it's running @3k rpm. When I take mine off the trickle charger, I can see as much as 15v, running, but usually 14.5v.

I wouldn't replace an R/R without testing it first.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 09:42 PM
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For the love of all that's holy don't just smear jbweld on that pipe and call it good. If you haven't really put any miles on it just take the subframe off, loosen all the bolts on the side cover and if you go carefully the gasket will be fine. Replacing the o rings is simple and the right way to fix it instead of making a small job much harder than it needs to be.

Lol sorry if it sounded like I was flying off the handle but its a shame to see a simple job turn into something ridiculous. If you already put this much work into it you might as well fix it right, right?

Yeah the ear shave will cause more noticeable intake noise.

2003 vn750
1988 Pontiac Trans Am (project/driver)
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