If this is half the problem, I'm quitting my day job - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-27-2007, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb If this is half the problem, I'm quitting my day job

Okay, broke open the right side of the crankcase, and here's what we've got: a royal mess. I had both coolant and oil leaking from the front of the case - and you can see a spot on the one pic where there's oil dribbling in to the right of the impeller (there's also a pic of the crankcase cover - inside showing, inverted - with the same oil, same spot). As for the impeller itself - it doesn't look too spanky to me. Not that I've seen any others with which to make a comparison, but it's got rust and junk all over it (sorry for the yellow lighting, too - camera isn't happy, either). Haven't pulled the impeller to see what's behind the flange, but I'm guessing all of that needs to be replaced.

As for the gaskets for this side of the engine, they appear to be made of construction paper... Is there anything I need to do on install to make sure they behave? That is, do I need to put some engine oil on 'em? Scotch tape? Rubber cement?

C

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-27-2007, 10:20 PM
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Duct tape works better than scotch tape..hehehe

You can go to Auto Zone, Advanced or Napa and get some rubberized gasket material. It's better than paper and apply a light coat of oil to it to help it seal. Light=just stick your finger in it and rub it on to make it wet.....

'92 Vn750

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-27-2007, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365 View Post
Is there anything I need to do on install to make sure they behave? That is, do I need to put some engine oil on 'em? Scotch tape? Rubber cement?
IIRC, the gasket, case and cover should be dry at install.
Oil has a tendency to let the gasket get squeezed out while tightening.
I believe I read this somewhere talking about the stator cover and gasket,
but I don't see why the other side would be any different.

Did you ever happen to do a compression test on the cooling system?


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-28-2007, 04:39 AM
 
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Kawasaki says dry and no sealant, however when I did the stator on my old VN700 I went thru 2 gaskets (and 2 engine pulls) before I talked with Sherms cycle repair and they said every Vulcan they worked on leaked if they did not use sealant with the gasket. I did as they said and the third time using a thin layer of sealant on bothe sides of the gasket. I had no leaks finally!
I would recommend using a very thin layer of hi-temp silicone sealant on both sides as I did with mine. It beats having to pull the motor!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-28-2007, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Black RTV sealant - lightly applied - will do the trick? Works for me.

Anybody got a spare impeller and mechanical seal that s/he just has to get rid of??

C
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-28-2007, 09:41 AM
 
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"The Right Stuff" made by Permatex. It costs more then RTV but isn't as slippery and sticks better. Most mechanics who have used it wont go back to normal RTV.
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