engine removal front bevel gear removal? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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engine removal front bevel gear removal?

when removing the engine do i have to remove the front bevel gear. looks like 7 bolts. when i remove this will it release the drive shaft.
thanks
maybe one day i will be able to give advice instead of asking so many questions lol.

2003 kaw vn 750 pushing 40,000 miles.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 06:25 PM
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It is not neccesary but it does make it easier just be sure to pull it off slowly so you don't bend the push rod for the clutch

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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it doesn't look to hard to pull figured i would go ahead and put some Molly to use while I'm that far into it.

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2003 kaw vn 750 pushing 40,000 miles.
tp stator
dampers
coil relay mod
other stuff not listed
mustang seat
motorcycle repair at a stealership 1 million bucks, repairs with the help of the Vulcan750 forum priceless.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new rider 9984 View Post
It is not neccesary but it does make it easier just be sure to pull it off slowly so you don't bend the push rod for the clutch
X2
Also go slow putting it back on for the same reason, mine kept trying to hang up on me.
As you said also a great time for moly.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 04:19 AM
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Keep in mind while doing this that there is a spring at the rear of the drive shaft pushing the drive shaft onto the front bevel box assembly, it makes things a little more tricky.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 06:25 AM
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When you put it back on:
After you've had it off pull the rod for the clutch out and set it aside. Disconnect your clutch cable from the spline in the bottom of the housing. Remove the cover on the side of the housing (has a slot in it and it just unscrews). Turn the spline (the one that had the cable on it) and remove the little slider that is in there.

After you line the bevel gear casing up and have a few bolts in you can just slide that rod in and you will feel it go all the way in. Then you just put the slider in next and put the cap back on. I've found this to be a lot easier than trying to get the housing over the rod and keep the gasket lined up. You should then adjust the clutch cable when you reinstall.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 10:13 PM
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I just went thru this....remove your front exhaust manifold first....makes twisting the engine easier....remove the rear wheel, and undo the 4 bolts for the final drive housing....in/out then easily.....but like Gibbo stated, dont forget that spring when reassembling....with the rear of the driveshaft exposed, you can move it some to line up when reinstalling the engine....

These driveshaft bikes suck btw.....chains/belts made things so damned easy !....lol....



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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the info. every little bit helps. all the info on here saves a lot of time and money. love this forum.

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2003 kaw vn 750 pushing 40,000 miles.
tp stator
dampers
coil relay mod
other stuff not listed
mustang seat
motorcycle repair at a stealership 1 million bucks, repairs with the help of the Vulcan750 forum priceless.
emtdon is offline  
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