First Oil Change - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Red face First Oil Change

Well, I finally got over the first hump. The PO had the drain plug on so tight I couldn't budge it. Almost gave in to going to a shop but instead bought a pair of the good old Vise-Grips and a 12" length of steel pipe (ended up not needing that). I still almost rounded the nut. I can't believe how tight he had it. Finally got it clamped with enough pressure to break it loose. Yahoo! Anyway, the rest was a piece of cake. Used Rotella T synth (blue) and a Mobil1 M1-110. Thanks guys for the tip about covering the starter with some tinfoil. A nice surprise came when I pulled out the screen. It looked pristine. No metal or junk of any kind. Got it buttoned up and She doesn't leak and sounds sooo happy. Have a friend coming Sunday to help me tackle the splines. Printed out Fergy's procedure (Thanks Fergy) and, hopefully things will go smoothly. Also will change the gear oil.

Also tightened the side stand and found the plunger on the safety switch was bent so I straightened it and worked it in and out while spraying with contact cleaner. Was hoping that was the cause of my jumping tach but no change there. Actually, it appears the switch is not working at all. The bike runs in gear whether the switch is depressed or not. I guess I need to replace it but, except for the tach, the bike runs great.

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 05:12 PM
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as far as gear oil change, i would do it last after the splines are done. there is a breather hole (not accessable/visble when the wheel is on) on the final drive unit, you might loose some oil from there.

the switch supposed to kill the engine whenever bike is in gear (clutch out) so i gues in your case it is bypassed somewhere.

for the jumping tach problems you definetly need to check and clean contacts starting with ignition switch wires. my bike quit on me once 200 miles away from home (restarted 15 min later but it still was kinda scarry) and jumping tack was presseded the stall. also look at your battery contacts - my negative cable snapped and was lying on the battery contact causing wierd stuff.

Ride Safe

Anton.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 05:41 PM
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My sidestand switch wasn't bypassed - but had issues. Would usually do the same as described above (same with the clutch switch).

Bypassed both, bike runs better.

Curtis - Albany Oregon.
Currently receiving therapy from "Doc" - My 1985 VN700.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankist View Post
as far as gear oil change, i would do it last after the splines are done. there is a breather hole (not accessable/visble when the wheel is on) on the final drive unit, you might loose some oil from there.

the switch supposed to kill the engine whenever bike is in gear (clutch out) so i gues in your case it is bypassed somewhere.

for the jumping tach problems you definetly need to check and clean contacts starting with ignition switch wires. my bike quit on me once 200 miles away from home (restarted 15 min later but it still was kinda scarry) and jumping tack was presseded the stall. also look at your battery contacts - my negative cable snapped and was lying on the battery contact causing wierd stuff.
Yes, that's the plan. First the splines then reassemble and do the gear oil. As far as the electrical, that's where I'm kinda gun-shy. Looks like I'd have to do a lot of dis-assembly to try and find out where the cables go -- and then get it all back together again. I notice, especially on the freeway, as the bike warms up the tach will start reading somewhat stable but at twice the revs that it should be.

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis97322 View Post
My sidestand switch wasn't bypassed - but had issues. Would usually do the same as described above (same with the clutch switch).

Bypassed both, bike runs better.
That's the weird thing. The bike runs soo good. I commute every day to work. Never a hiccup.

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 08:36 PM
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Is rotella T synthetic motorcycle wet clutch approved?
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2007, 11:12 PM
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Rotella synthetic is not officially wet-clutch approved by its maker (Shell Oil), but I've read on different forums and websites where riders have used this stuff in different bikes (but all wet clutch aps) and each of them had very satisfactory results.

For the moment, Rotella T appears to be the synthetic oil of choice, if you want the most value for you maintenance dollar.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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I've only put about 100 mi. since the change. Shifting is smooth & quiet and no clutch slippage. This oil is highly recommended here and I have confidence that these guys know what they're talking about. The main oils to avoid are those with the "Energy Conserving" label which includes most, if not all, 10w-30 weights.

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 11:04 AM
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Just for fun I decided to try Mobil One 15W50 when I changed oil this last weekend, mainly preparing for the increasing heat. It seems to quiet the top end noise down a little, but most impressive is my sudden increase in mpg. I've averaged 43 forever using the Rotella Syn. I did nothing but change my oil and filter, same Purolator Pure One filter and Mobil One oil and this last tank I got 48 mpg. Same gas too. I'll keep checking it (I always do) and let you know if it stays up there or if this was just a one time deal.

By the way, no clutch slippage and haven't noticed the coffee grinder either, but I have learned to mostly avoid that by feathering the clutch when the bike is cold, so I just may not be letting it make coffee.

Wally World has the Mobil One 15w50 in a 5 qt jug for around $24.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
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Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
Just for fun I decided to try Mobil One 15W50 when I changed oil this last weekend, mainly preparing for the increasing heat. It seems to quiet the top end noise down a little, but most impressive is my sudden increase in mpg. I've averaged 43 forever using the Rotella Syn. I did nothing but change my oil and filter, same Purolator Pure One filter and Mobil One oil and this last tank I got 48 mpg. Same gas too. I'll keep checking it (I always do) and let you know if it stays up there or if this was just a one time deal.

By the way, no clutch slippage and haven't noticed the coffee grinder either, but I have learned to mostly avoid that by feathering the clutch when the bike is cold, so I just may not be letting it make coffee.

Wally World has the Mobil One 15w50 in a 5 qt jug for around $24.
That's interesting. It's still early but my mileage looks like it may have dropped slightly since the change to Rotella. My gauge usually reads 1/2 tank around 60-70mi. Now, half way thru my first tank I see in the mid 50's. Could be other factors. Don't know if it's happened yet but this is around the time of year when they start changing to the Summer gas formulation.

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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