Another Bike Temperature Question - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
Benjammin'
 
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Another Bike Temperature Question

Do our bikes have a slight potential to run the temperature gage close to the beginning of the red zone when setting in traffic on warm days? Last weekend, I was caught at a train crossing and watched the temperature gage rapidly move towards Hot (though didn't get there before we started moving). But, at the rate it was going, I had begun looking for places to pull over.

I had an overheat problem last year due to the fan switch being corroded, not making contact. Was sitting in stopped traffic, again, on an extremely hot summer day when it happened then. Cleaned up the contact, and now I can hear the fan run when the bike is shut off, so I assume it turns on when the bike is running. I have flushed and filled the radiator with quality antifreeze (50/50 mix) and refilled according to the procedures.

Couple of questions;
1) Do our bikes have another achillies heel as far as the cooling system doing its job when the bike is stopped?
2) I heard someone mention bleeding the thermostat to remove air. Not sure if I did that when refilling the radiator, but did it slowly, ran the bike and refilled. Do I need to remove the tank to bleed the thermostat?
3) Is it possible ait built up in the radiator system over time and a pocket of air that wasn't there last year now exists?

Sorry for the long post. But I know I come to the right place!

Ben-
SW Ohio

'02 VN750
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 10:51 PM
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Was the fan turning on?
They do run on the warm side if just sitting still.
Did you flush the radiator, mine had a slude on the bottom when I did mine.
That will not let the full radiator work to its full potential.
If you have a bubble it will also hurt. Is there coolent in your overflow?
Hope this helps.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-23-2007, 10:59 PM
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They do seem to run warm, which probably doesn't help the charging issue at all. I rode on Sunday in about 85 degree temps - slow ride on back roads, some of 'em gravel. Temp gauge sat towards the high side of the middle, but the fan was working fine. Once I got moving, she cooled down right away.

If you think you have air in your radiator, your best bet is to pull the tank - the bleed valve is right by the thermostat housing. Never hurts to double-check for that.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 05:06 AM
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If I know I'll be stopped in traffic for more than a few minutes, and it's quite warm out, I'll shut the bike down to keep it from getting too hot.

And, like it's been said, wouldn't hurt to check if ya got all the air outta the cooling system.


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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSkaggs513 View Post

Couple of questions;
1) Do our bikes have another achillies heel as far as the cooling system doing its job when the bike is stopped?
2) I heard someone mention bleeding the thermostat to remove air. Not sure if I did that when refilling the radiator, but did it slowly, ran the bike and refilled. Do I need to remove the tank to bleed the thermostat?
3) Is it possible ait built up in the radiator system over time and a pocket of air that wasn't there last year now exists?

Sorry for the long post. But I know I come to the right place!
1) The Achilles heel of the cooling system is probably the fan. If it can't run, you're in serious trouble. The fan's gotta work. I don't have any trouble telling when it kicks in-my legs start to slow roast like a turkey on Thanksgiving. It should turn on just after the needle passes the half way mark, not wait until it's almost in the red.
2) If your not sure you bled the thermostat, then you didn't bleed the thermostat. If you're dexterous, you can probably work the bleed screw without removing the tank-but it's easier if you do. Careful you don't loose the rubber bushings under the side bolts. Stuff a rag to catch any coolant that spits out. If you can enlist some help, you can probably bleed the thermostat without taking the tank all the way off by having them hold it up while you work. I only mention that option since it's a real bear getting the hoses on and off the petcock.
3) If the overflow tank went empty, the bike could suck air in then.

'04 750A- and loving it!
VROC 13864
Using a Purlator One PL14610
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 11:35 AM
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I turn mine off as well when I'm stuck at an RR crossing or accident etc. No reason to idle and waste gas and sit there heating up. It also runs your fan at idle if it's hot enough, which adds more drain on your electrical system, another bad thing. The cooling system on our bikes acts like the cooling system on old cars. Temp gauge goes up and down. I've wondered over the last several years what they changed on modern vehicles to make the cooling system maintain the temperature of a car so effectively. You can sit for 30 minutes in 100 degree temps idling, and the temp gauge never budges.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-24-2007, 11:51 AM
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For bleeding the thermostat... (not nescissarily reccomending this for cherry bikes) - no need to remove the tank - just move it a bit.

Seems like I put a scrap piece of 2*4 under the tank (might have been something else the "right size") and then had plenty of room to work with the bleed valve. Probably could bleed the valve with the tank unmoved with the right tools and dextarity, but it takes 5 minutes to tilt the tank and it's well worth it (those with cherry bikes could stuff a rag down there or the like.)

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like I'm gonna have to bleed it. Is ther anything in the Verses explaining how to do this? Like- should the bike be warmed up, should it be running, kickstand matter? Those sort of things.

I did the flush, all fluid levels are good. I felt the turkey roast on my legs while riding, so I know the fan came on when running. It also came on after I shut the bike down when I reached my destination. Sounds like air entrapment...

Ben-
SW Ohio

'02 VN750
Pipes drilled
Spline lubed
R/R relocated
AGM batteried
Iridium equipped
LED tail lighted
8000-ish miled
Soon to be MCCTed

Lovin Life.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 05:36 PM
Drive less, ride more...
 
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Someone on another thread said something in the owner's manual about not letting the bike idle for more than 5 minutes (at a time).

I looked in my owner's manual, and sure enough, on page 43, there it is....clear as day.

I wonder if stator/electrical problems were mainly what Kaw had in mind when they wrote that part of the manual???.....
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 07:05 PM
 
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I just changed my antifreeze recently and had to rock the bike from side to side to insure any air pockets were eliminated. I did this until the filler tube showed no indication of the coolent lowering in the tube. I then used the bleeder to bleed any excess air. My gauge never reaches the red zone but will noramlly run at the white mark. The fan will come on if the the needle touches the white mark. I wander if your thermosat may need replacing. You can remove it and test it it by inserting it in heated coolent. The manual tells you how!
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