Replacing stator without removing engine - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing stator without removing engine

Came across this,Dont know if it works or not but it sounds good.
They claim they can change stator in 12 hours.

.................................................. .........

To change the stator (and some other work) YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT
merely tilt it to the right to let the shift spindle clear the frame.


These instructions are based on the Clymer manual engine removal. If you have a Clymer manual, use its pictures as a guide.

The Clymer's manual is pretty good at describing what and how to Remove things. Follow the instructions as they are laid out, but there are some things that you DON'T HAVE TO DO BECAUSE YOU ARE NOT ACTUALLY GOING TO REMOVE THE ENGINE....

Total time: about 12 hours

Kawasaki parts needed:
* 11060-1086 Bevel Gear case gasket
* 11060-1089 Generator Cover gasket
* 92055-1319 Outer cover O-ring

Should also get:
* new crush gaskets for the exhaust
* 3 small O-rings for the outer cover bolts
* copper anti-seize for exhaust bolt threads

Tools & equipment:
* metric tools
* small auto jack
* 12" x 6" x 1/2" piece of wood
* a pad of some sort (carpet) for the engine to sit on
* pry bar (car wheel lug wrench)
* 3 or 4 standard size bricks for additional support
* 1/2" masking tape and a Sharpie for marking parts
* string or wire to secure things
* plastic or paper cups to keep bolts/nuts/washers (mark the cups)
* Clymer's manual:
* read Chapter 4 on removing the engine.
* when it says "remove the xxyy as explained in chapter Z",
familiarize yourself with the procedure,
WILL have to "disconnect" & remove a bunch of parts.

As much as practical, reattach nuts & bolts, to make reassembly easier. When nuts & bolts can't be reattached, put then in marked cups.

Clean the engine exterior, to remove dirt and grease -- it makes handling parts nicer. Some household spray-pump cleaners work well.


1. Place the bike on its centerstand on level ground.

2. Drain the oil, using the bottom plug.

3. Remove the shifter lever.

4. Drain the coolant at the radiator drain plug (lower right front).

5. Disconnect the coolant hose at the engine (NOT at the radiator).

6. Remove the seat (bolts inside the tool case compartment).

7. Remove both side covers.

8. Disconnect the battery + cable (be sure it can't touch the battery).

9. Remove exhausts (replace bolts & cap nuts so you don't lose them).

10. Remove the tank.
A. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to OFF or PRIM
B. Disconnect fuel lines from shut-off valve
NOTE: DON'T drain the gas, just store the tank right side up
NOTE: To get the fuel lines off, spray them with WD40 and twist
C. On '86-'9 _ models, disconnect shut-off valve vacuum line
D. Remove bolts at lower front of tank
E. Raise the rear of the tank
F. Disconnect fuel gauge connector
G. On California models, disconnect emission system vent lines
H. Lift and pull the tank off, to the rear

11. Unbolt the coolant reservoir (leave the hoses attached).
DON'T drain the reservoir unless planning to change the coolant.
Suspended the reservoir from the frame with some string.

12. Disconnect the spark plug wires and tie them off out of the way.

13. Pull the hose off of the rear head, suction box (on the left).

14. DON'T remove the Carbs, just disconnect boots from the surge tank.

15. DON'T remove the throttle cables, just loosen handlebar adjusters.

16. Remove the external oil line bolt (near the oil filler cap).

17. Remove the oil line bolt (top end of the line) on the cylinder head.

18. DON'T remove the:
- sidestand switch wires
- oil pressure switch
- ignition coils
- ignition pickup
- main engine ground

19. Remove the Front Bevel Gear case, being careful. A gear (damper cam)
inside can just plop out.


20. Set the jack towards the front of the engine case, with some bricks in back
prop up the rear.
Set the board perpendicular to the engine to give max support.
NOTE: Position the jack up/down control on the LEFT side of the bike
to easier check and adjust the shift spindle to frame clearance.

21. Remove the front brake and foot peg bracket

22. Remove Right side subframe.

23. When removing the right-side rear engine mount bolts (different lengths),
mark them: F, UR, LR (Front, Upper Rear, Lower Rear).

24. Lower the back end till the engine mounting holes have cleared their
brackets. Alternately lower & raise the jack to loosen things, while
prying on the back end with a padded/coated pry bar.
CAUTION: DON'T LOWER SO MUCH THAT THE SHIFT SPINDLE HITS THE FRAME!

25. With the rear mounting holes cleared, lower the engine to maintain
at least 1/4" of shift spindle to frame clearance.
Support the rear of the engine on bricks, lower than the front.

26. Turn the handlebars to the left. This turns the engine to the right.

27. Put the pry bar between the engine and frame near the shift spindle.
Hold onto the frame and gently & firmly pry the engine to the right.
The engine should move out of the frame easily. The shift spindle
needs at least 1 3/4" from the frame to remove the stator cover.

28. Reverse the procedures to reinstall the engine.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------=



A few notes on installing the stator
------------------------------------
1. After unscrewing the stator from the outer cover, clip the output
(yellow) leads as close to the grommet as possible on the inside of
the cover. You'll need to re-use this, so pry it out gently.

2. With the new stator mounted in the cover and the grommets in place,
seal around them and in the holes, with red RTV Silicone. Let this
dry a full day before adding oil (oil leaks suck)!!

3. Be sure the 2 circlips and outer shift spindle washer are in place.
They limit excess spindle in/out movement (about 1/16" w/ cover on).

4. Mount the cover (see below about silicone sealing the cases), route
the wires, and THEN re-install the engine in the frame.

TIP: Use KY jelly to rejuvenate the rubber mounts. It's water based
And will not harm the rubber.

5. Moly grease the Front Driveshaft splines on both the shaft itself and
the Bevel Gear case. As per the Clymer's, Moly grease the damper cam
and its shaft spindle inside the Gear case. When you're ready to re-install
the Gear case (AFTER you've re-installed the Stator outer cover (so you can route the output wires under the Gear case), it may help to turn the U-joint inside the shaft up and towards you, insert the Gearcase splines & rotate the rear wheel slowly while pushing on the Gear case, to help mesh the splines.

6. Even when using new gaskets, oil leaks suck! Take added precaution to paint a thin even coat of Red RTV silicone on both mating surfaces of the Bevel Gear case and the Stator Outer Cover before re-install.

7. After removing the old gasket material, paint the engine side first, then install the new gasket over the silicone. Paint inside the Cover and Gear case, and re-install. Let this dry for one full day before you add oil and test your repair!!
These were suggested by JOB.

10. Remove the tank.
A. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to OFF or PRIM
B. Disconnect fuel lines from shut-off valve
NOTE: DON'T drain the gas, just store the tank right side up
*** Drain the gas or it will leak all over the place!!

11. Unbolt the coolant reservoir (leave the hoses attached).
DON'T drain the reservoir unless planning to change the coolant.
Suspended the reservoir from the frame with some string.

*** Remove the rear head coolant hose and metal tube going into the
head.

17. Remove the oil line bolt (top end of the line) on the cylinder
head.

***Not Necessarily
(this one was an idea I had, without looking at the bike. The
original instruction said to bend the tab on the oil line in step
16, at a 90 degree angle.

19. Remove the Front Bevel Gear case, being careful. A gear (damper
cam)
inside can just plop out.

***Remove the clutch rod

21. When removing the right-side rear engine mount bolts (different
lengths), mark them: F, UR, LR (Front, Upper Rear, Lower Rear).

***Remove the front engine bracket
***Remove the right sub-frame (with a 8mm Allen wrench)
***Remove the UR right engine bracket held in place by 2 bolts
.................................................. ..........

Here are some topics (that I have reorganized the wording) from
postings by you and Red Baron, that may help you to reconstruct the
process.

Added steps from Red Baron:
Remove the back engine mount bracket (others said they didn't have
to).

Loosen or remove the left/rear/top radiator pipe.

This was the first part of the job where I had trouble.

There is very, very little clearance,
I had to move things like a 1/4 inch at a time.
.................................................. ..............

Added steps from Dianna Hughey:
Removed the front engine mount
Removed the rear engine mount bracket from the engine
Removed the coolant hose attached to the right side of the front
cylinder
Loosened the two side bolts on the radiator
Pushed it forward a bit and all that gave us the final clearance.
ALSO... Be sure and mark the pick-up coils as to which is top and which is bottom for when you pit them back in place on the stator inner cover. Otherwise your bike will go crank crank THUD when you try and start it.

Steve from Pittsburgh
2005 vn750
modified knifemaker driver boards
chrome levers, Shaved saddle
Ape manual CCT's, nylon saddle bags
engine mount covers, plexIII windshield
crash bar w/floor boards, air hawk pad
ear mod, rad cover/,w/ss mesh
chrome cable and wire covers
chrome anti-freeze cover
RR relocation,MF battery,drilled out
idle plugs,marbled

Last edited by Spriddle; 02-22-2007 at 12:44 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Can any of you tell me if this post is right. I cant remember where I copied it from,it was awhile ago.

Steve from Pittsburgh
2005 vn750
modified knifemaker driver boards
chrome levers, Shaved saddle
Ape manual CCT's, nylon saddle bags
engine mount covers, plexIII windshield
crash bar w/floor boards, air hawk pad
ear mod, rad cover/,w/ss mesh
chrome cable and wire covers
chrome anti-freeze cover
RR relocation,MF battery,drilled out
idle plugs,marbled
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 09:49 PM
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Steve -

By the time you do all of that, you're darn close to pulling the engine out anyway. Just remove the carbs with the cables attached (except the choke cable) and remove the motor. Much easier to install the new stator right working on bench level instead of 12 inches off the ground.

Plus, can clean a hole bunch of spots you couldn't get to before.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 12:43 AM
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I will be doing a complete how to starting this weekend how to do the stator change.... I will include pics... i also do recomend a TOC cover... helps the next time its needed.. Stator change is then a 15-45 min job + overnight cure time for the RTV

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 08:06 AM
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*LOL* Yeah! I can tell you if that is right cause.. I helped write it up with the help of a few others that "tilted their engines" to do the stator pull.
I've posted it here and on the Yahoo VN750 group, in fact it is in the Yahoo file section.

EnginePullWriteup.rtf
Step by Step procedure for Engine Pull/Tilt 11 KB ddhughey0620
Aug 7, 2006

Preface to the write-up says..
"Here is the list too that Doowriter and I are working on.. check out the additional notes at the end.. we hope to get it all put back in order along with torques for the bolts for reassembly.

I have converted the write-up about tilting the engine, into a numbered procedure. If you have time, I would appreciate if you could compare this version with whatever you use, and give me feedback about additions/deletions/corrctions that you experience while doing the tilt.

Thanks, Bill"

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Dianna;26294]*LOL* Yeah! I can tell you if that is right cause.. I helped write it up with the help of a few others that "tilted their engines" to do the stator pull.

Yep,I thought that might have been you Dianna.
Do you really think that saves any time over pulling the engine completly???

Steve from Pittsburgh
2005 vn750
modified knifemaker driver boards
chrome levers, Shaved saddle
Ape manual CCT's, nylon saddle bags
engine mount covers, plexIII windshield
crash bar w/floor boards, air hawk pad
ear mod, rad cover/,w/ss mesh
chrome cable and wire covers
chrome anti-freeze cover
RR relocation,MF battery,drilled out
idle plugs,marbled
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 03:18 PM
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ehh by having done the 'tilt' this time i am gonna pull it.. this way i can clean the hard to reach areas, wont take but an extra hour or so....

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hizzo3 View Post
ehh by having done the 'tilt' this time i am gonna pull it.. this way i can clean the hard to reach areas, wont take but an extra hour or so....
Not even that much longer, and the extra cleaning ability is well worth it.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 09:53 PM
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By the time you go to all the trouble of tilting the engine, you have pretty much removed it anyway. If you do remove it, just be aware that it loves to fall on your knee as you try to gently drop it out of the frame. Mine seemed to be stuck and when I tried to wiggle it loose, my knee was under the engine and when the engine dropped, there went the knee. Several others have 'fessed up to this as well. The tilt to me would just set up the smashed body part syndrome even better.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hizzo3 View Post
I will be doing a complete how to starting this weekend how to do the stator change.... I will include pics... i also do recomend a TOC cover... helps the next time its needed.. Stator change is then a 15-45 min job + overnight cure time for the RTV
Looking forward to this!


Anthony
1985 VN700 (Priscilla) Sold
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