Timing Chain Removal Help - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Timing Chain Removal Help

We have both side covers off but we can't get the stator magnet/flywheel off the one side nor the gear that is preventing us from getting to that timing chain either... any help?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgell001 View Post
We have both side covers off but we can't get the stator magnet/flywheel off the one side nor the gear that is preventing us from getting to that timing chain either... any help?
Copied + Pasted from a Spockster Post:

Quote:
Rotor puller bolt (861 0449?) - M18 x 1.50 x 60mm , the 60mm length isn't so important as long as it's close. Only takes a few twists and it pops loose, real steep taper on the crank. I got the Bikemaster Fly Wheel Puller - 150618 Marked $13.95, dealer sold it at $9.95. I can get a box of 25 bolts that size for $22.99.

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-01-2013, 01:45 PM
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Yeah get the right bolt! I borrowed a wheel puller from auto zone or maybe it was advanced auto they both have a program that you can borrow tools. (So does O'Reillys Autos)
anyways I useed a mismatched bolt inside and ruined the threads and had to re-do the threads then...But any wheel puller will do the trick also.

BeeSea
1986 750 Vulcan
Coastered
Relocate R/R to side cover
Re-did the engine
from the case up.(And it runs)
YOU CAN TOO!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-01-2013, 01:47 PM
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Also doesn't the bolt on the balancer tighten backwards, or is it the one on the rotor?

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-01-2013, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
Also doesn't the bolt on the balancer tighten backwards, or is it the one on the rotor?
Correct ...The balance gear center bolt has a Left Hand threads.....torqued to 51 ' lbs.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!

Last edited by WilliamTech; 07-01-2013 at 03:20 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-01-2013, 02:43 PM
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.....And threadlockedi n place.

One can never have too many alternative forms of transport.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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ok so about that reversed thread one..... broke the head off. Thats what happens when you get in the groove and have had a few beers. Whats the info on that reverse threaded one so i have order in and have it in by this weekend?

Also, i've watched the videos on youtube about the rebuild and he's making this timing this seem really easy.... its not that easy, the timing marks after 27 years are not as obvious as one might think. If you know where to look maybe... any help with this would be great too. I've got the rear head off and the chain back on (wrong) so that needs redo'ing and the other side is untouched other than ripping the head off the balancer bolt
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 07:06 AM
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I did mine the other day after having the cases apart to renew all the water pump stuff + the oil pump rotors and chain. Also fitted the uprated tensioner. My bike is a neglected 1985 VN700, yet the marks were all there after I cleaned the area and used a good light source. Here is what I did if it helps. Start on the front cylinder. Have the alternator side facing you.Turn engine in normal direction only (anticlockwise on alternator rotor, rotor facing you) set front piston at TDC (top dead centre) I used the rotor, just pushed it on with the woodruff key in place and hand turned the engine. remove rotor and verify timing mark on crank sprocket is next to "pip" on casing. The lower cam chain is the narrow one, it may have no paint marks on it. Take the chain and mark a pin with tippex or similar, count that pin as "1", count up the chain in a clockwise direction and mark pin number 38. Place the chain over the idler sprocket with the timing mark tooth in the space next on from the 38th marked pin. loop the upper chain over the idler. Feed the idler sprocket down and loop the lower chain onto the crank sprocket with the timing mark on the sprocket tooth going into the space one below the pin marked as "1". You should now have the crank sprocket marked tooth with a white marked chain pin one up from it, 38 pins later up the chain you should have the idler sprocket with its mark vertical (reference the cylinder) and the 38th marked pin just before this vertical mark. Place the exhaust cam with its mark to the left and level with the top surface of the head,make sure you don,t have slack on the left side of the chains (opposite side to the cam chain tensioner). Install the left inlet cam with its timing mark to the right and level with the cylinder head top surface. Count the number of pins starting from the first pin level with the timing mark on the exhaust cam, call that pin one and count along to the pin in line with the mark on the inlet cam, should be pin 24. Install the guides etc and double check all the slack is on the right side and that all these marks and number are correct. that is the front one timed. bolt down the front cylinder cams. Turn the engine again in the anti clock direction using the alternator rotor until the rear cylinder comes NEARLY up to top dead centre. Physically spin the whole assembly on the bench so the clutch side is now facing you. Reach round and continue turning the crank until the rear piston is at TDC and the timing mark on the sprocket (Clutch side) is in alignment. Remember that the crank sprocket you are now looking at turns clockwise because you are now facing the other side of the engine. do exactly the same on this side as you did on the other, BUT the counting of the 38 pins on the lower chain and the 24 on the top chain are done starting from the right side and round anticlockwise on the chains and the slack must be on the left side of the chains. Also remember that the inlet cam is still on your right and the exhaust cam is still to your left. Do not mix the cams up and do not mix the front and rear cams. Double check everything. It takes longer to write this than it does to do it for real. That's it done.

One can never have too many alternative forms of transport.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a ton. I'll have this post open when I dig into it this weekend. Anyone know the specs on that reverse thread fastener? I need that replacement to make progress and MSC will get it to me in 2 days
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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I just order the OEM replacement from bike bandit, but i still can't find an M18x1.50 on MSC, McMasterCarr, or Grainger. WTF? looks like i'm going to have to rent a puller remover from autozone.
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