So many discussions about oil, and so little time. It comes up on every automotive forum I've ever been a member of, and I think sometimes newbies are innocently asking questions and might get intimidating answers from the old time members who get tired of the same question.
I'm no expert on oil
. But there are facts about oil that are readily available to read on the internet if someone desires to learn.
Here's a good paper on oil: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
Here's another one: http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
There are more if you look for them. Basically they have similar information in them and can help us understand the difference between dyno oil and synthetic.
Dyno oil starts as refined crude oil, and is sold as mineral oil, clear and oderless. Oil companies add in things that change the properties of the oil, give it lubrication capabilities, make it thicker and sustain that thickness even in high heat, and additives that make it stay thinner when it's cold. Multi Viscosity oils, like 10W40 have the properties of a 10 weight oil when it's cold, and 40 weight oil when it's hot. The thing you need to know about dyno oil is that it's additives will eventually break down (or get ground down) as the oil is "blended" for lack of a better word, in our crank case and clutch/transmission as it is spun through the gear teeth at a high rate and heated up to crazy temps. These additives are what gives you the protection you need for your engine. So as they break down, there is less protection. There are places you can send your oil that you drain from the engine at your oil change interval and they will test it for you to give you a read out of what is in the oil, it's viscosity etc. Some of the tests I've read about show that the oil is starting to break down at 1200 miles or even sooner. Just something to know. If you are using dyno, you'll need to change it more often. It still works great as a lubricant, but it just breaks down quicker than synthetic. Why is that?
Synthetic is an oil that is fabricated. When it is produced, it has the lubrication capability without having to add packages of additives to make it protect the engine. Because of this, there isn't all this stuff in there that can get ground up while your engine is running and blending up all that oil in the same environment as before. It maintains it's lubrication capability for much longer than dyno oil does. It will eventually need changing, because of bi-products that are produced in an internal combustion engine that pollutes the oil as we run the engines. But it has a longer life in the engine before it gets crudded up and needs changing. That is why you pay more for it, and why the car mfg's are stating much longer oil change intervals and require synth in a lot of vehicles.
Avoid using any oil, dyno or synthetic that has "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half of the circular API emblem on the bottle. This oil has some moly additives in it to make up for it's lack of protection (they hold back some of the protective additives to make engines run with closer tolerances and a little more wear, but getting better mileage out of them, sacrificing some longevity) as a last ditch effort to keep an engine from going metal to metal and distroying itsself. Generally, it will make your wet clutch slip, although there are arguments for and against. Most experts I've read say stay away from Energy Conserving oil with wet clutch motorcycles.
Anyway, read it for yourself. I just thought I'd summarize for the sake of the new members.
In my opinion, (here goes an opinion-and everyone has one...) if you use dyno, change it more often and religiously. If you use synthetic, you can run twice as long, but need to change it just as religiously. Either way, it probably works out to about the same cost.
There's a good list of filters that are recommended for our bikes in the Vulcan Verses. https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthrea...ghlight=filter