It's Alive !!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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It's Alive !!!!

but not without it's issues.

Gas leak was the bowl gasket I removed to change the jets. It has a 1/8 inch gap in the oring. Bought oring of similar diamater and cut small piece to put into the gap. Coated it with gasket sealer and conditioned. Leak gone.

No spark was due to the four pin connector from the pickup coils had so much corrosion, I am surprised it worked before I took it apart. Cut off the 4 leads and butt spliced them together. Bike started almost before I had the starter button completely in!

Voltage at idle 13.0Vdc, at 4K 14.1 Vdc (measured at the battery). New stator & R/R from Rick's looks on target.

Now for the problems:

Clutch: Grabbing way out, probably the last 25 % of travel.

Poor performance: Shaved and MAC exhaust installed. Rejetted to 40/140F 40/142R. Almost feel like ignition but its not. Bogs down low and seems to fight itself up top. Considering the carbs need to be synced???

Would a carb re-sync be warranted after what I have done? Can it be done without some elaborte fixture? Did not thouch the mixtures screws, but that should effect idle only.

Ideas are welcome.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
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Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)

Last edited by 93VN750; 12-28-2006 at 12:56 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 08:13 PM
 
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if you removed the carbs then you got to re-synch J
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by free wheel-e View Post
if you removed the carbs then you got to re-synch J
I hope its that simple. It has all the symptoms of needing to be sync'd.
Now if I can just find an easy way to do that......

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 08:47 PM
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I haven't synched the carbs yet, but it sounds pretty straight forward. A simple manometer can be made out of a really long piece of vinyl tubing and some any light weight oil that won't hurt the bike if it gets sucked into the carb (which would only happen if they're really out of sync to begin with or one end of the tube falls off during testing. Hooking up to the vacuum ports should be pretty easy for anybody that's taken the carbs apart.


Adjusting the clutch is pretty simple. I followed the directions in Clymer's and it made a big improvement.

'04 750A- and loving it!
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Using a Purlator One PL14610
"Sixth gear? I don't need no stinkin sixth gear!"
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
I haven't synched the carbs yet, but it sounds pretty straight forward. A simple manometer can be made out of a really long piece of vinyl tubing and some any light weight oil that won't hurt the bike if it gets sucked into the carb (which would only happen if they're really out of sync to begin with or one end of the tube falls off during testing. Hooking up to the vacuum ports should be pretty easy for anybody that's taken the carbs apart.


Adjusting the clutch is pretty simple. I followed the directions in Clymer's and it made a big improvement.
I've found a few homemade manometer's around the web, looks like the way to go.

I did the Clymer's method for the clutch and it just seems to grab too far out.
Perhaps I'll re-read it again and see if I overlooked something.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 12:57 AM
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You can adjust the clutch to your own liking by using the Clymer's as a starting point and going from there. I used the center adjuster for the rough and the handlebar adjuster for the fine adjustment. Now if I could just get rid of the coffee grinder noise in the morning!!!

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Rider View Post
You can adjust the clutch to your own liking by using the Clymer's as a starting point and going from there. I used the center adjuster for the rough and the handlebar adjuster for the fine adjustment. Now if I could just get rid of the coffee grinder noise in the morning!!!
good point.... coffee grider can be fixed with stronger clutch springs

'04 Vn750
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hizzo3 View Post
coffee grider can be fixed with stronger clutch springs
Or better ear plugs ! LOL
Glad ya got it runnin' Jon. Just the tweakin' left to do. That should be the easy part.
I should probably get a manometer made up now, before I need it.
As for the clutch issue, wouldn't hurt to make sure the cable is seated propery at both ends and doesn't seem to be binding anywhere. Did ya lube it at all?


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Last edited by hyperbuzzin; 12-28-2006 at 02:41 AM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 07:33 AM
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Way to go, Jon!!! Hooray!!

The carb sync is really easy - the manometer build is cheap, and I used final drive gear oil in mine. It needs to sit a little while so that the air bubbles work their way out, but if you put the oil in today, you could be using it by tomorrow night.

Some folks will hook up an external fuel source to compensate for the slow decline of fuel in the carbs while sync'ing, but you can sync without that. I first ran the engine for about a minute; then hooked up the manometer; turned the engine back on and you'll see instantly in which direction your carbs are off. Turn off the engine and adjust the screw accordingly (if I've got this right, the screw only adjusts the rear carb - your goal is to get the rear vacuum the same as the front). Turn the engine back on, quick-check the manometer, and adjust again. You may have to unhook the manometer once or twice, hook the tank lines back up and fill the carbs with fuel again, but it's really straightforward. Also, your adjustments should be small - doesn't take much turning to change the vacuum. But then you'll know when you've overshot.

I think in all, it probably took me about 15-20 minutes max to sync 'em (once I realized that I didn't need an external source, life got easier).

GREAT JOB!!

C
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Cindy -

Thanks, but I'll hold off on the congratulations until it is running right, which it is not now. I hope the carb sync will take care of the problem.

Probabaly not going to get to it until the weekend.

Keep you posted.

Jon

(But thanks )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crobins365 View Post
Way to go, Jon!!! Hooray!!

The carb sync is really easy - the manometer build is cheap, and I used final drive gear oil in mine. It needs to sit a little while so that the air bubbles work their way out, but if you put the oil in today, you could be using it by tomorrow night.

Some folks will hook up an external fuel source to compensate for the slow decline of fuel in the carbs while sync'ing, but you can sync without that. I first ran the engine for about a minute; then hooked up the manometer; turned the engine back on and you'll see instantly in which direction your carbs are off. Turn off the engine and adjust the screw accordingly (if I've got this right, the screw only adjusts the rear carb - your goal is to get the rear vacuum the same as the front). Turn the engine back on, quick-check the manometer, and adjust again. You may have to unhook the manometer once or twice, hook the tank lines back up and fill the carbs with fuel again, but it's really straightforward. Also, your adjustments should be small - doesn't take much turning to change the vacuum. But then you'll know when you've overshot.

I think in all, it probably took me about 15-20 minutes max to sync 'em (once I realized that I didn't need an external source, life got easier).

GREAT JOB!!

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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