Okay, so I broke an exhaust stud bolt..... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I broke an exhaust stud bolt.....

I was able to get the nut off so I could remove the exhaust. Now that the engine is out I thought I would work on that stud knowing it had to be replaced.

After soaking it with penetration oil for a few days, it snapped off when I tried to back it out with a small pipe wrench.

Whats the best way to remove the broken part from the exhaust manifold?

I guess I could drill all the way through and then use a nut/bolt combo instead of a stud.

Ideas are welcome.

Jon

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 08:05 PM
 
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Jon you could try and drill thru it and use an easyout, or if you have an old busted drill bit you could try and hold it firmly against the busted bolt and put the drill in reverse....I had that work b4
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 10:35 PM
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They also make left handed drill bits. I have had them work also, drill in reverse and sometimes it will catch and back out the bolt.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 10:29 AM
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I assume you used pb blaster or liquid wrench to soak the bolt. I'd soak it some more with either. Pick up a set of screw extractors at Sears. Backwards drill bits basically. You might even be able to drill the center out (carefully) with a smaller bit then use the extractors. The heat of drilling the center out will help free up the stuck bolt.

Fergy
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy
I assume you used pb blaster or liquid wrench to soak the bolt. I'd soak it some more with either. Pick up a set of screw extractors at Sears. Backwards drill bits basically. You might even be able to drill the center out (carefully) with a smaller bit then use the extractors. The heat of drilling the center out will help free up the stuck bolt.
You know about assume......only had WD40 on hand, I know doesn't work for that application.

I will pickup some PB Blaster and an extractor.

Thanks,

Jon

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MF AGM Battery
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Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 10:53 AM
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Well, I can't say that using pb blaster would have kept that from happening, but it sure would have given you a better shot at it.

I replaced the suspension on an older jeep two years ago. Two days before, I sprayed every bolt and nut that was going to be removed with pb. I let them soak then hit them again the night before the take down. Some of them were huge bolts that I had to use my 1/2" ratchet and a piece of pipe on the end for leverage, but every single one (all of them rusty as heck) came right off without a single problem. It was the first time I had ever used or even heard of pb, but everyone on the jeep forum said to use it. I was sold. Been using it every since. So far, 100%. (knock on wood!) Wish I had talked to you a week ago!

Fergy
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 12:34 PM
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I did the exact same thing shortly after I got my Vulcan. I tried drilling it out from the back side of the exhaust manifold and then retapping the threads. I ended up breaking the tap off in the hole and that was a real pain.
The solution was to take it to a muffler shop where they heated the tap to red hot and then gave it a good whack with a punch. It shattered and they were able to finish retapping the hole. It cost me about $25 but I got the manifold back and it is in use today. I bought generic studs for it and used anti sieze upon reassembly.
Be careful if you use the Easy Out or reverse drill method of getting it out because if you break them off in the stud and you can't get the pieces out, you will be faced with the same situation I had.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the warning, I will hope for the best.....

Jon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky Rider
I did the exact same thing shortly after I got my Vulcan. I tried drilling it out from the back side of the exhaust manifold and then retapping the threads. I ended up breaking the tap off in the hole and that was a real pain.
The solution was to take it to a muffler shop where they heated the tap to red hot and then gave it a good whack with a punch. It shattered and they were able to finish retapping the hole. It cost me about $25 but I got the manifold back and it is in use today. I bought generic studs for it and used anti sieze upon reassembly.
Be careful if you use the Easy Out or reverse drill method of getting it out because if you break them off in the stud and you can't get the pieces out, you will be faced with the same situation I had.

93VN750, under re-construction
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Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 01:32 PM
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Better Than Easy-outs (that Also Try To Expand The Bolt In The Hole Which On This Type Of Rusted In Bolt You Will Have To Use A Lot Of Force) Is The Splined Extractor , You Get A Drill Bit The Right Size And A Holder To Fit In The Socket Wrench And Most Kits Have A Guide For Drilling The Hole Central. Snap-on Do A Very Good Version Of This Type And If Your Going To Get It Out Without Drilling The Whole Thing Out And Retapping This Type Is Your Best Bet. Good Luck

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 08:10 PM
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EDALBRIS,

Is this the kind of extractor you are talking about?:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Thanks

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Last edited by Loran in Npvl IL; 12-05-2006 at 08:13 PM.
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