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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Degoating question

Hi, All - I've decided to go ahead and degoat and see how the stock pipes sound, and then put on the new MAC pipes, just for fun. Off hand, does anyone happen to have the ID measures and length of the cross-over pipe for the degoating? I can pull the goat's belly off sometime this week and take the measurements, but thought perhaps someone who's already slain the goat might know the numbers.

Thanks!!!

C
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 01:26 AM
 
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you gut it out, not replace it. You'll see the oblong ends where it connect to the left and right side exhaust. You will never find something to fit it. Remove it, gut it, and re-install it. My second one has been de-goated and isn't really that loud, it is louder than stock but it's not as loud as aftermarket systems by any means. The previous owner did the de-goat and said it was a major pain in the butt! Said if he could do it all over, he would have just replaced the entire system.
The VN700 I used to own had Cobra exhaust that exited the same side (right side) and was almost as loud as a 1200 Sporty. As soon as I get a deal on another Cobra system the current one is getting switched because I'm not happy with the de-goat sound. Personally I wouldn't waste my time on the de-goat and just put the MAC system on, especially if you're looking for true, louder and deeper tone.

Last edited by racohoon; 10-30-2006 at 01:38 AM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 01:31 AM
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I think the info you need is in the verses. And opposed to what RA said, you do remove it, and can either replace that area with nothing, or put an H-pipe in. Couldn't tell ya the ID numbers though, as I've found a baffle drilling to suffice quite nicely.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 01:59 AM
 
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Sorry about that should have looked at the stock exhaust closer- I thought it dropped from the oblong/wide part where it meets the pipes, not at the actual exhaust pipes.
Anyway RIP IT OFF--THROW IT AWAY--INSTALL THE MACS!!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 02:03 AM
 
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Hey--maybe thats why I'm not impressed with the de-goat. He said he removed all the catylitic material inside and re-istalled it. Maybe he didn't get it all out.
Damn it! Something else I need to add to my list! My list keeps getting longer not shorter.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cegodsey
I think the info you need is in the verses. And opposed to what RA said, you do remove it, and can either replace that area with nothing, or put an H-pipe in. Couldn't tell ya the ID numbers though, as I've found a baffle drilling to suffice quite nicely.
Well, you do have to replace with something if ya remove the goatsbelly but don't go the 'H' pipe route, otherwise ya got 4 open pipe ends.

You do need two to connect front and back, but do not have to connect left & right.(although many do for slightly better low end perfomance over no 'H' pipe)
(Unless with the MAC pipes, they're longer than stock pipes)

Here is a list of parts from the Y! site compliments of Maverick
(this is what he used, other options are probably available) ...........

These parts can be bought at any parts store but I got mine at Autozone. Here is what you need:

(2) 1 3/4" flexible exhaust tubing part # 17031

(2) packages of Victor muffler bandage part # V805

optional if needed- High-Temp red RTV silicone part # 26BR (can be bought at Wal-Mart)

(1) U-clamp (this should be included in the box of flexible tubing so check first before you buy one)

Save all four stock exhaust clamps


If ya need the rest of the directions, I can get them posted here to.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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Last edited by hyperbuzzin; 10-30-2006 at 02:18 AM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin

If ya need the rest of the directions, I can get them posted here to.
Thanks, Buzz, and maybe I do need the directions 'cause I'm envisioning this the wrong way. Here's what I thought to be happening under there: the exhaust is coming out of the *right* pipe, routed into the goat's belly, routed back out of the goat's belly through the muffler and out. But that's not right, is it? It's coming out of both the left and right exhausts, into the goat, and then out. So I need a crossover for both right and left sides since there's going to be a gap between the exhaust pipe and the muffler on each side. What was I thinking? Right side....

The thing with the MACs is that each is one piece, solid: the right one comes off the head and hooks up under the passenger footpeg; and the left one comes off the head, under the bike (where the goat would've been), and I think underneath the right pipe. No crossover needed 'cause they're both solid pipes. I suspect they'll be too loud for these old ears of mine, but I just wanted to goof around and learn a little more about the bike's systems. Seems like a good time of year to do that.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 02:14 PM
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I could be wrong, but I think the goat just connects the two exhausts. I don't think any particles are forced to go into the belly. It's like driving down Main Street, and you happen to pass by 4th street, but you aren't forced to turn there.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 02:18 PM
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Opps, I forgot all about both MAC pipes coming out just the right side !
The parts list I put up there ^ ^ was for pipes out both sides, as would be the directions I was going to put.

Sounds like with the MAC set-up, ya pretty much remove the stock pipes completely and replace everything.

Sorry for confusing ya

If ya still want directions for the degoat, with stock pipes, out both sides
(remember, this is what he used, other options are probably available)............

Remove the heat shields on both sides. Loosen the clamps on the mufflers. Remove each muffler by removing the mount bolt and twisting and pulling the muffler until it comes off. Set mufflers aside.

Now loosen the clamps on the header pipes. Remove the premuffler mount bolts. Remove the premuffler from the headers. I didn't need to remove the header pipes to do this but if you need to you will want to replace the gasket at the head.

Now all you should have left is the headers attached to the engine. Set aside the (4) stock clamps.

Now it's time to put it back together without the premuffler.

Mount the mufflers back on the bike. Measure the distance between inside of the muffler inlet where the tubing will bottom out, to the header where you want the tubing to end. Before cutting the exhaust tubing make sure it is compressed and not extended. This will make sure you have enough tubing and it won't be too short at the end.

The measurements will be different for each side so measure and cut each side separately.

Remove the mufflers form the bike. Bend the tabs of the muffler inlet out a little so the tubing will go in easier. Using the Muffler Bandage, wrap it around the tubing twice and cut. Now peel away a little of the film on the bandage that will need to be removed later to expose the sticky portion.
Using a hair dryer, heat up the end of the tubing that you are going to put the bandage on. Peel the film off the tape and wrap around the heated tube.

With the bandage on the tube it is going to be a tight fit getting the tube in the muffler inlet. Make sure the tabs are bent out enough so it doesn't rip the bandage when installing.

To install the tubing in the muffler I put the outlet of the muffler on a rug so it doesn't get damaged. I slid the tubing in the muffler as far as I could. I used a piece of wood and a hammer on the tubing end to tap the tubing in until it bottomed out. When you are done look inside the tubing and see if you can see any daylight. If you can then it is not in all the way. If it looks dark then you are bottomed out and will get a good seal.

Once you have the tubing installed on both muffler don't put the clamps on yet.

Mount the mufflers and insert the headers into the tubing. Now mark on the headers where the tubing ends. Remove the mufflers.

Using the muffler bandage, wrap it around the header pipe twice and cut. Using a hair dryer to heat up the header pipe install the bandage the same way you did on the tubing for the mufflers. Make sure you put the tape on about 1/2" from your mark so it will stick out the end of the tubing when installed.

Now it's time to permanently install the mufflers. Slide one of the stock clamps over each tube and onto the muffler inlet tabs. Do not tighten.

Slide the tubing over the header pipes being careful not to rip the bandage. Mount the mufflers.

Take the U-clamp and put it in position on the left header pipe but do not tighten.

On the right header pipe you will need to use a stock clamp with a shim. The header pipe sits too close to the frame and a U-clamp won't fit, plus the heat shield won't go on with a U-clamp there. As a shim I used the left over stock clamp and cut the ends off of it. Put the shim in position with the stock clamp over it but do not tighten.

Everything should now be in place and the clamps ready to tighten. Install the heat shields and check the clamps positioning. Since you are using flexible tubing check the tilt of the mufflers to make sure it looks right with the shields.

When the clamp positioning and the muffler tilt is correct snug up the clamps so they will now stay in position. Remove the heat shields and tighten all the clamps.

The mod is now complete and it is time to test for leaks. Start the engine. Before things get too hot feel around the joints for leaks. To fix leaks you may just need to retighten a clamp or use the high temp silicone to fill in the gap. Use the silicone as directed.



Note: The Muffler Bandage will start smoking. This is normal and will go away once the bandage has gone through the heating process which will give it a permanent seal and bond.

When you are satisfied that there are no leaks, install the heat shields and enjoy your new louder deeper sound!

Note: After each of the next few rides, let the bike cool off then check the clamps for tightness. They tend to loosen up.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

Author Unknown
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Fantastic directions, thanks!! I also like that the writer points out that there *will* be smoke involved, and not to panic... Been there, done that.

I figure I can degoat and see how the stock pipes sound; then, with the goat off, put on the MACs and see what I think (will probably hate them; look for 'em on eBay in about 2 weeks); and then put the stock pipes back on, with or without goat, depending upon how I like the degoated sound.

Now that my splines are greased and my carbs are sync'd (and my voltmeter is in the mail), just looking for something to keep me busy.

C
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