Pulling the Engine - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-15-2006, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Pulling the Engine

Okay, I've read all the ACCT stuff, done the mod with the TOC springs, played with it, I'm convinced I've got a stretch cam chain, and the tensioner is fine.

So, I'm currently in the process of pulling the engine so that I can replace the old cam chain. It's been tough sledding, but I've pull the bike apart, pulled the engine, and removed the front cam shaft. I am now working on the crank case, and getting the generator/alternator out of the way of the lower cam chain.

Unfortunately I've run into a snag with removing the generator rotor. According to the Clymer's book this should only be removed with a rotor puller. They claim this can be removed by any competent mechanic, or by using a special tool from Kawasaki.

However, the only puller's I've found use puller arms, which will not work because they must attach to the back of the rotor, with is rounded, instead of square. Looking at the Kawasaki website, it appears that the tool referenced in the book is nolonger sold, because it's not listed. Finally the instructions are very clear that it is NOT to be pulled without the tool or irrepairable harm will befall the rotor.

Anybody remove their rotor, and if so how?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 12:10 AM
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Oh Hizzo !!!
Your assistance is required here !!


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


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Aim for the apex."

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 12:17 AM
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hummm, to yank that rotor, there is that special tool that is required. here are your options....

1) try looking on ebay, i've seen them pop up about as often as the touring package, but it does happen
2) see if your local shop can lend it to you, you may have to suggest a lil cash exchange to get them to do it.
3) load the engine up, then take it to the dealer, and pay to have them to remove it. shouldnt be more then $10 to get them to do it since u already have it disassembled

also i did find this. i cant remeber how the rotor was attached as i didnt have to pull it when i was in there.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...18_x_1.5_r.h./

looks like it could work.

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
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TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hizzo3
as i didnt have to pull it when i was in there.
Opps, guess I put ya on the spot when I shouldn't have

That puller you linked to must be a bolt with a threaded hole inside of it for another bolt to then kind of 'push' the rotor off the shaft.

The idea about taking it to a dealer sounds like a good one, and shouldn't be too expensive.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 01:20 AM
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not a prob :P

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 03:46 AM
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That's what I did, drag it down to the dealer. Guy didn't charge me anything for it which was cool. Took him longer to find the tool than it did to use it. =)
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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I might drag it down to the dealer, but honestly it seems like it would be easier to just order the puller from motion pro. Thanks for the link!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 12:54 PM
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All the puller is is a bolt with the proper thread for the that part of the rotor. Thread it up and briefly hit it with an air wrench or muscle it by hand and it will slip off easily. If you do it manually, be sure the rotor can't turn. All it does is push against the crankshaft. DON'T TRY AN ARMED PULLER!!! I damaged the crankshaft threads and put some gouges in my rotor doing this. The crank was an easy fix done by retapping the threads but the rotor still has the gouges but it is working fine.
I can't remember the thread and bolt size now, I'm at work, but when I get home, I'll look at it. The bolt cost me a whopping $2.00 or something like that.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Jim. I was wondering if that was the case. According to the microfiche the bolt is a 12x40, so I guess that means that any 12 mm bolt of the right length will work. I'll have to try the local HW store.

Hopefully it's not too late to cancel my order for the puller. Even if it is, it's probably about what I'd pay somebody to do it.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-16-2006, 01:45 PM
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The local hardware stores didn't have it here so I ended up going to a Bolt and Screw company that handles just about any threaded fastener ever made. The bolt is 12mm in diameter as measured in the threaded area and the 40 means 40 threads per centimeter. As long as it's long enough to push against the crank, it'll be OK.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542

Last edited by Sky Rider; 10-16-2006 at 01:52 PM.
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