More questions about the Goats Belly - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
Benjammin'
 
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More questions about the Goats Belly

Folks- I really appreciate all the incredible knowledge I have taken and used from you all. Thanks s bunch!!

Now that the buttering up is done I have a couple of questions around degoating my 2002 with 6k on the odo. FYI, funds are limited and wife is not real understanding with with spending big $$ on the bike....

1) I know Scootworks sells a degoat kit for around $60, but I was wondering if the kit included a crossover pipe for the bypass. Looking at the belly now, it appears that it allows exhaust to cross from one exhaust to another to balance it.
2) My reasoning for degoating is primarily for heat on the regulator. I have looked at moving it, but for the money, why not get sound too, right? Does degoating eliminate the potential for regulator overheat if I leave it where it was originally mounted?
3) Lastly, my bike overheated once because of a faulty fan switch connection (I learned of the problem in here ); do you think the heat from the situation may have caused damage and premature life to my regulator? It works fine now, but would replacing it with another aftermarket unit now make sense to keeping the bike trouble-free?

I know this is lengthy, but I appreciate everyone willing to share their knowledge and experiences. Ride On!

Ben-
SW Ohio

'02 VN750
Pipes drilled
Spline lubed
R/R relocated
AGM batteried
Iridium equipped
LED tail lighted
8000-ish miled
Soon to be MCCTed

Lovin Life.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 12:00 PM
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nop, there is no crossover pipe in scootworks kit. and thats why you will lose some power on take off while gaining a little in the top rpm range.
i think i've seen pics of an H-pipe to cross connect both exauhsts after belly removal but it was custom made by some welder for his own use only.

wife situation sounds fammiliar

Ride Safe

Anton.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 12:14 PM
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I also did the Scootworks kit, I did not notice a loss of power in the low gears. I also moved my R/R just to be safe. The motor oferheating sholuld not have affected the R/R. Yes some people have made a cross over pipe, I did not. You will have to coaster or marbel after the Goat removal, the Scootworks kit comes with rubber plugs to do that. The air fuel screws will also have to be adjusted, there are picts in the galery of where they are, yo uwill have to remove the lead plugs to get to them. Hope this helps

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
Vroc #17649
2011 HD Ultra Classic "angel"
2001 Nomad 1500 Sold March 2012
2001 VN 750 "Sold June with 2008 with 21,000""Serinity"
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccspinner
I also did the Scootworks kit, I did not notice a loss of power in the low gears. I also moved my R/R just to be safe. The motor oferheating sholuld not have affected the R/R. Yes some people have made a cross over pipe, I did not. You will have to coaster or marbel after the Goat removal, the Scootworks kit comes with rubber plugs to do that. The air fuel screws will also have to be adjusted, there are picts in the galery of where they are, yo uwill have to remove the lead plugs to get to them. Hope this helps
I already did the marble trick- helped a great deal, but I still have the occasional 'pop'. I am guessing an exhaust leak on the header to be the biggest culprit because I can hear a slight sound from there as well. Was planning on getting new crush rings with the degoat to 'seal up the deal'.

Does adjusting the carbs (richer, I am guessing) make any difference in the performance of the bike- either better performance or worse gas mileage?

Thanks a bunch!

Ben-
SW Ohio

'02 VN750
Pipes drilled
Spline lubed
R/R relocated
AGM batteried
Iridium equipped
LED tail lighted
8000-ish miled
Soon to be MCCTed

Lovin Life.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccspinner
You will have to coaster or marbel after the Goat removal, the Scootworks kit comes with rubber plugs to do that.
You don't have to, isn't that just to eliminate the popping ?
I don't mind that. Kinda like how the Hardly Deservinsom bikes mark their territory by 'leaving their mark' (aka oil leaks), my Vulcan marks it's territory by an unmistakable RRRROOOOAAARRR (cough cough) RRROOOAAARRR (cough cough cough cough) LOL


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin
You don't have to, isn't that just to eliminate the popping ?
I don't mind that. Kinda like how the Hardly Deservinsom bikes mark their territory by 'leaving their mark' (aka oil leaks), my Vulcan marks it's territory by an unmistakable RRRROOOOAAARRR (cough cough) RRROOOAAARRR (cough cough cough cough) LOL
True you don't have to if you like the popping.

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
Vroc #17649
2011 HD Ultra Classic "angel"
2001 Nomad 1500 Sold March 2012
2001 VN 750 "Sold June with 2008 with 21,000""Serinity"
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 12:04 AM
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If your bike overheated did you change the oil ?

Ron from Jersey
2005 VN750
HellFire windshield
Kaw extended backrest
Cobra exhaust
Re-located stator wires
Side bags
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It's PAID OFF ! May 2009
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 03:52 AM
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As to replacing the r/r, I wouldn't worry about it. Your engine overheated, not the r/r. The exhaust is going to get a certain temp, and not get much hotter. The engine, however, is supposed to be much cooler than the exhaust, and it is the engine that got hotter, but probably not as hot as the exhaust. The fact that the r/r is above the exhaust, and it is the exhaust that causes the r/r to overheat, not the engine heat, there isn't more damage done to it by the engine.

Now the stator, that's Hizzo's dept. He can probably tell you how the stator is doing from the excess heat. Do yourself a favor and check the AC voltage across the yellow wires, and make sure it is in the 50-60V range at 5000 rpms. 3 sets of measurements, 1-2, 2-3, 1-3. That should tell you what condition the overheating left your stator in.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 08:31 AM
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Stator check is as follows...
Unplug and test the three yellow stator wires;
they should be .34 to .52 ohms between any
combination of the yellow wires, with no shorts to
ground.

Check the Ohms.. not for volts.
Also in some cases a "short to ground" will only show up when tested after a warmed engine, usually a 5 mile ride will get it up to operating temp and the short to ground can be tested then.

Also check out the fault finding PDF in the yahoo group
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/QInxRIL...lt_finding.pdf

Also found here if you can't access the yahoo group
http://www.electrosport.com/electros...t_finding.html

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)

Last edited by Dianna; 08-27-2006 at 08:36 AM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dianna
Also in some cases a "short to ground" will only show up when tested after a warmed engine, usually a 5 mile ride will get it up to operating temp and the short to ground can be tested then.
Good point.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
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