front cyl problem....good spark. pipe cold - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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front cyl problem....good spark. pipe cold

Good morning all...well finally sent the vulcan 750 for it's maiden run. Put about 30 miles on it, noticed running a bit rough....The front cylinder has spark available at both plugs. Spark was quite impressive. The plug didn't seem gas fouled, just a faint odor and trace. The exaust pipe was very cool. the other pipe was well up to temp. front coil is working, plug wires ok, and plugs not shorted...Could this be a carb problem?? thought I had the carbs all squared away last week....all jets were cleaned, and any internal orifices were clear of any contamination or buildup...I know one of you gurus has the fix...thanks all
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 09:59 PM
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I was going to make my own thread with this exact problem but searched and found this one. I am not getting combustion in the front cylinder, it has filled with gas 2-3 times now. The back one will work fine, it idles fine right at 1k. Left it on so long the fan came on and yet the front cylinder pipes were room temp, rear pipes could cook an egg.

If I give it any gas, it will kill itself. I just recently rebuilt my petcock and it seemed like it wasn't opening enough to let fuel through so I took the vacuum part out and now gas is definitely getting to the carb. Doing compression check next, any ideas for the both of us?

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 09:35 PM
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carb sync needed?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 12:56 PM
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...9 times out of 10, if only one cyl is filling with gas and there is spark, then it means a stuck float (the left side carb). Remove the air filter from that (or the rubber snorkel if youre stock) from the back of the carb. Drain the carb thru the bottom. Place a piece of vacuum hose onto the drain nipple, and blow. You'll see all the stuff spitting out from the carb intake. Close the drain, refill the carb, drain again and blow it out again. I need to do this myself in about 15 mins soon as I finish my beer. Oh yeah...you'll more than likely gave gas in yer oil too...usually can tell by a raised oil level. If ya cant tell that way, drain a lil into a bottlecap and place a wooden match to it. If it lights, oil in the gas and needs to be changed.



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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post
...9 times out of 10, if only one cyl is filling with gas and there is spark, then it means a stuck float (the left side carb). Remove the air filter from that (or the rubber snorkel if youre stock) from the back of the carb. Drain the carb thru the bottom. Place a piece of vacuum hose onto the drain nipple, and blow. You'll see all the stuff spitting out from the carb intake. Close the drain, refill the carb, drain again and blow it out again. I need to do this myself in about 15 mins soon as I finish my beer. Oh yeah...you'll more than likely gave gas in yer oil too...usually can tell by a raised oil level. If ya cant tell that way, drain a lil into a bottlecap and place a wooden match to it. If it lights, oil in the gas and needs to be changed.
gas in the oil.
No more beer for you lol.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 02:48 PM
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Another way to check the front cylinder is to remove the carb boot, open the throttle, and spray a short dose of carb cleaner or ether into the carb. Close the throttle, and crank it up, if the front cylinder fires, then you aren't getting fuel through the carb.
If it don't fire, then you most likely have an ignition problem.
I have purchased plugs and have had them fail right out of the box.
You need 3 things to make an engine run. Fuel, spark, and compression, and of course oxygen.
Have you checked the compression on the front cylinder?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
gas in the oil.
No more beer for you lol.
Ooops...thats twice in the past week Ive gotten dyslexic, lol....ruh roh...

After doin mine today, went on an orange juice run (22 miles), and prob fixed...95% of the time its crep jammin the float needle...

Quote:
Another way to check the front cylinder is to remove the carb boot, open the throttle, and spray a short dose of carb cleaner or ether into the carb. Close the throttle, and crank it up, if the front cylinder fires, then you aren't getting fuel through the carb.
If it don't fire, then you most likely have an ignition problem.
I have purchased plugs and have had them fail right out of the box.
You need 3 things to make an engine run. Fuel, spark, and compression, and of course oxygen.
Have you checked the compression on the front cylinder?
But he's GETTING a good spark and its just flooding out...too much fuel with kill the spark at higher revs (fouling)...its the float...only thing I know of that will flood only one cyl. Carb cleaner in the intake is fine fer de-gumming, but to clean out real crud, ya need to go in reverse, else yer just shovin the stuff further.




Last edited by Wolfie; 07-25-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 08:06 PM
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Alright, I'll try blowing in to the drain nipple, seems simple and easy. I JUST readjusted the float bowl for the front cylinder (right side) side of the carb. I took the needle out and it looked clean and functioning. Hopefully that will fix it, other wise I will take off the carb and clean it as well as I can.

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 08:20 PM
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How would I go about draining the carb?

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
seems simple and easy.
Well thats whay I try to show folks "simple and basic" before they spend a lotta possibly unnecessary time and bucks...

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How would I go about draining the carb?
At the bottom of each carb is a screw and nipple....just loosen the screw until gas comes out (hold a piece of tube to the nipple, else will drain onto the crankcase) and loosen but dont remove. Through the same place it drained from, blow back thru after removing either the aircleaner or the rubber hose. You'll see it spit out from the intake on the carb. Do it twice, and should be good to go, at least for awhile, if ther's fine particles in yer tank that keep returning, like in mine, either install inline filters, or get the tank cleaned properly. But I go 2 months in between cleanings if the carb, and Im a daily rider. The "reverse blow" method works and makes sense...surprised nobody else did it here. All my Harley friends with CVK carbs do it once a month...just takes a few minutes, and yer back on the road.



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