another member of the broken exhaust stud club - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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another member of the broken exhaust stud club

Yepper.. the back one on the right side broke today. (more issues with trying to remove that engine guard) MY stud seemed to be turning with the nut.. maybe i'm nuts but it felt that way. Mine broke right at the cap nut, so with the header and flange off, you can still grab the stud. Whats the easiest way to get that out and put in a new one. In the meantime, i assume there is no problem with running the bike. The other cap nut on that side is plenty snug

BTW.. all other issues seem to be resolved and Franco is running great.. topped 100mph just to say i did

Pittsburgh Dave
2001 VN750...old ride
2003 VN1600.. new ride
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 04:46 PM
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Next ya gotta top 110. She'll just barely do it. I was at 112 when my rod bearing let loose, but the one did not cause the other as I'd been up to that speed a couple times before.

I'm curious about replacing the stud as well. I had one break on the old engine, but the one good one still seemed to seal the exhaust well enough so I never worried about fixing it. But it DID break off on a buddy's bike, so would like to know how to replace it.

Or would it just be easier to replace the whole exhaust header?

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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well.. as im 265.. i dont know if it will go that high with me on it

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pittdave View Post
Yepper.. the back one on the right side broke today. (more issues with trying to remove that engine guard) MY stud seemed to be turning with the nut.. maybe i'm nuts but it felt that way. Mine broke right at the cap nut, so with the header and flange off, you can still grab the stud. Whats the easiest way to get that out and put in a new one. In the meantime, i assume there is no problem with running the bike. The other cap nut on that side is plenty snug

BTW.. all other issues seem to be resolved and Franco is running great.. topped 100mph just to say i did
The good news is that you still have a substancial portion of the stud to grab onto.
I suggest spraying the stud joint with your favorite penetrating oil (PB Blaster or whatever) 2 or 3 times during the day, and let it sit for a few hours or even overnight.
Grip the exposed remaining stud firmly with a pair of Vice Grips with good teeth.
Beginning gently, slowly twist the stud back and forth to break the corrosion seal. Don`t break the stud again!!

Alternate firm raps with a hammer on the stud with further twisting.
Judicious application of heat with a propane torch may help as well.
Just don`t put too much heat into the aluminum block.
Go slow and easy. The expression "worry it off" comes to mind here.

When you get it out, clean the blind hole threads with the appropriate sized thread tap.
Keep it lubricated with squirts of penetrating oil as you turn the tap in a bit and feel resistance.
Stop, back tap out, clean crud off with spray or small brush and repeat unil you get to the bottom of the hole.

Prior to installing a new stud, apply a bit of CopperCote or other anti-seize coating to the threads.
On the upper end of the stud, screw on two nuts and using two wrenches tighten against each other to lock them together. You now have a place to use a wrench to tighten the stud in the hole. Use the two wrenches again to unlock the nuts and remove from stud.

You can also use an ordinary cap screw (bolt) instead of a stud and nut, if you are not concerned about not having a shiny chrome acorn nut in that place.
Stainless steel might be a better choice if you go this route.

Gordon

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Purchased May 16, 2008
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TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 06-30-2012 at 10:17 PM.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 12:55 AM
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I had this issue on two of mine, one on each cylinder. One we used a vise grip to remove, the other broke off flush so I drilled it out completely and stuck a bolt of similar size through it and used a nut on the other side, the other came out and I used a tap of the same size Ans thread pitch to clean out the corrosion in the threads then found a matching 9.8g bolt to use. No problems since. The stud that came out was so stuck that we wore it down so much the vise grip had nothing to grip so we put a bead of weld on it to help out. Also, heat and vibration are your best friends here.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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how much of this is or can be done without removing the manifold

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 10:34 AM
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I took two out, the ones that hold the tach cluster, by drilling them out. I drilled a bit out of center. And when I was a bit into the thread on one side, I took a small chisel to work the rest of the broken threads out. I started with small drill and worked my way up to the largest that was safe to use before getting too much into the threads.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 11:04 AM
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I did both of mine without removing anything but the header pipe
I have a feeling if you try to remove the manifold your gonna have even more of a headache
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-01-2012, 09:39 PM
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no matter how it is done there will be plenty of kicking and cussing so keep the women and kids out of ear shot take your time use plenty of pb blaster and a lot of prayer
when you put the vise grips on the first time tighten them to where you have to use every ounce of strength in both hands to lock them in if you slip off the stud even once it makes it twice as hard to get out good luck man
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-02-2012, 08:49 AM
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Pittdave if you can get her to me we can fix her! Its really not that bad there's several options to getting it fixed. I fix broken bolts at least a few times a week at work and I've done two on my Vulcan
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