What weight Mobile One? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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What weight Mobile One?

Subject says it all. Changing the oil on my 06 tomorrow
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:19 PM
 
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I don't know about Mobil 1, but I used 20/50 sythetic blend on my last one.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:32 PM
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I changed mine today, after which my bike wouldn't run. I could start it with the choke, and it would idle ok, until I gave it gas, and it just died. Tried this several times, until it wouldn't start at all. I didn't do anything to the bike other than put it on its center stand a couple of days ago, and removed/replaced the oil filter, then drained and refilled the oil. My battery is an MF, and the battery tender shows that it's charged. I figured it was my turn for something like this to happen - a simple oil change gone bad, but now I'm pretty sure I know what's wrong. Anybody wanna take a guess?

2000 A16
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relocated R/R
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:36 PM
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The bike went into shock because you got it on the center stand without resorting to blocks of wood???
My real guess would be out of gas.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:37 PM
 
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In your neck of the woods any good 10-40 will suffice, but M1 syn would be a very good choice as well as amsoil or redline, some guys have good luck with 5-40 rotella syn also. I would run just about any syn over the best dino oil. Overkill sometimes but it will keep your motor cleaner and better protected. If you don't live in the sun belt 20/50 is overkill in my opinion and if you ride in very cold weather(I ride until the snow flies) 20/50 is just to thick when cold for my likeing. I predict this will become a long thread as 50 people will give you 50 different answers.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:39 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cegodsey
I changed mine today, after which my bike wouldn't run. I could start it with the choke, and it would idle ok, until I gave it gas, and it just died. Tried this several times, until it wouldn't start at all. I didn't do anything to the bike other than put it on its center stand a couple of days ago, and removed/replaced the oil filter, then drained and refilled the oil. My battery is an MF, and the battery tender shows that it's charged. I figured it was my turn for something like this to happen - a simple oil change gone bad, but now I'm pretty sure I know what's wrong. Anybody wanna take a guess?
Let me guess, The label said Aunt Jamima on it. Pancake syrup is to thick for the oil pump.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:59 PM
 
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Woody is correct, 50 people would likely give you 50 different answers. Mineral v. synthetic, weight, temps, when, what filter...all up for debate...but here are the 2 basic criteria the oil you choose needs to meet.
1) Not "energy conserving" as it is damaging to the wet clutch
2) correct for temperature range you ride in

Other than that, you can choose just about anything you want.

That being said, I have the following to add to the discussion.
- The only mobile 1 I found that wasn't "energy conserving" was 20W-50 (red cap)
- I got the cold engine/clutch 'coffee grinder' thing using synthetic oil

I use Shell brand 10W-40 motor oil. No additives, not synthetic, just regular old decayed dinosaur.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 10:34 PM
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Why waist your money on synthetic? I have been working on motors sence I was 14, from race motors at over 700 Hp to lawn mowers and everytning in between. I never used Synthetic and never had a motor problem due to oil. Make sure you use oil that does not say Energy Concerving or Friction Modifiers on it. That is very bad for our wet clutches. I have used Rotella 10-40 got some noise from it, switchet to Pensoil 10-40, got quieter and still runs. Kawasaki won' t put in Synthetic why should you.

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
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2001 Nomad 1500 Sold March 2012
2001 VN 750 "Sold June with 2008 with 21,000""Serinity"
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 10:38 PM
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Sky Rider gets the trophy. I was out of gas. Putting it on the center stand leveled the gas in the tank, and made it lower than the pickup for the regular tank.

I bought Mobil1 10W-40 for motorcycles (WalMart), because ALL the other oil said Energy Conserving. Even the synthetics. It's a conspiracy, I tell you!

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-17-2006, 06:30 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccspinner
Why waist your money on synthetic? I have been working on motors sence I was 14, from race motors at over 700 Hp to lawn mowers and everytning in between. I never used Synthetic and never had a motor problem due to oil. Make sure you use oil that does not say Energy Concerving or Friction Modifiers on it. That is very bad for our wet clutches. I have used Rotella 10-40 got some noise from it, switchet to Pensoil 10-40, got quieter and still runs. Kawasaki won' t put in Synthetic why should you.
Not many Bike MFG's reccomend syn, hell for that matter most car mfg's didn't for a long time but things are changing.Harley said no untill they had their own branded syn oil.
Kaw didn't put in a better stator does that mean we shouldn't when they fo out?
Make a list of IRL/NASCAR/NHRA/IHRA teams that run dino vs Syn and let me know what list is bigger.
Not trying to to pick a fight CC but syn is not overkill unless you're only putting on a few miles per year. It allows longer change intervals and it does protect better in high heat leaving less deposits behind. The new SM rated oils are closing the gap with some of the cheaper syn's but they are energy conserving so offer no advantage to bikes.
Every year there are a lot of guys at work that go to Sturgis, Every year at least 1 more of them switches to sys so they don/t have to let their bikes cool off in 115 weather while the guys running syn can continue on.
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