Impeller Replacement - Questions - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-17-2012, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
1986 VN750
 
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Impeller Replacement - Questions

My Vulcan really keeps me busy sometimes. She's running and riding fine, but I have some noise from the bottom-right on the engine. It's now turned into a constant tap, that I think it's the impeller (not much else down there, really). Before it implodes on itself, I think I'll replace it in hopes that solves my issue. If it does not, then it's something that probably requires a case-split, and I'm not up for that right now. I don't have any overheating problems though, that's for sure. I did lots of traffic the other day and hung right at 50%, and never above.

My research suggests I don't have to do an engine pull (awesome). I can't find the a good parts list to get the job done, however. This is what I can see from the diagrams. Let me know if I missed something?

Code:
Kawa Part # 	Ref #	Description
-----------	------	--------------
59256-1058 	59256	IMPELLER
670D1509 	670A	O RING,9MM
11060-1090	11009C	GASKET,CLUTCH COVER
49063-1057	49063	SEAL-MECHANICAL
Subtotal: $59.40 (RonAyers)





1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350

Last edited by thtanner; 06-17-2012 at 03:14 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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I just ordered the above parts, so I'll document how it goes.

The noise is seemingly getting worse, and points to the impeller itself. I just hope the bearing is OK, but I think it is. *fingers crossed*

Went with PowersportsPlus ($58.54) as they are a tad cheaper than RonAyers ($59.40) this time. Shipping was also around $3.50 cheaper.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350

Last edited by thtanner; 06-30-2012 at 07:21 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 07:52 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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looking forward to see (hopefully) if all turns out well (fingers crossed).
WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-02-2012, 11:28 PM
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im still thinking this may be a problem with my bike too. interested to see how it goes, its on the to do list for me.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamTech View Post
looking forward to see (hopefully) if all turns out well (fingers crossed).
WilliamTech
The parts should ship tomorrow, via FedEx ground. I am hoping to have them by early to mix next week, so I can have the bike back together before the weekend. I want to get some good riding in to make sure it's solid prior to my week off.

Going to do a full service in prep for a long ride. Not sure where we're going.. maybe that's the point. I have 9 days to kill! Just going to start going north of LA.. or maybe just ride to Vegas. Who knows?

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
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Al-rite, well my VN750 has been feeling left out. I've put over 1800 miles on my new-to-me ST1100 in less than two weeks, so I feel kind of bad.

I'll be doing this tomorrow, and will attempt to document anything noteworthy. I hope the mechanical seal doesn't fight me! If there is anything anyone wants a specific picture of, or more details about, let me know and I'll try to take appropriate notes/pictures.

Also will be swapping my pilots and main jets (142/42) as I think the 40 pilots I have in there are too lean, and I have a 141 in the front, and I also feel that's too lean by just a tad. I can't get the front to stop popping on decel, and the rear does it occasionally too, so hopefully this will sort it out.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 12:33 PM
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
Al-rite, well my VN750 has been feeling left out. I've put over 1800 miles on my new-to-me ST1100 in less than two weeks, so I feel kind of bad.

I'll be doing this tomorrow, and will attempt to document anything noteworthy. I hope the mechanical seal doesn't fight me! If there is anything anyone wants a specific picture of, or more details about, let me know and I'll try to take appropriate notes/pictures.

Also will be swapping my pilots and main jets (142/42) as I think the 40 pilots I have in there are too lean, and I have a 141 in the front, and I also feel that's too lean by just a tad. I can't get the front to stop popping on decel, and the rear does it occasionally too, so hopefully this will sort it out.
Popping in the exhaust is usually fresh air getting in there, either from the emissions air injection system (as designed,) or a leak in the header crush gasket. I'm not saying you're not a little lean, but a rich mixture with an exhaust leak is the worst case for popping. If you are able to start up easily without a lot of choke, your mid-range throttle settings don't produce any hesitation at cruise, WOT acceleration is smooth, and you're plugs are a tan color without many white deposits, then you are very close. That being said, I'm probably going to go up one size on my stock mains because I don't like the transition from cruise to closed throttle (or vice versa)- I think the jerk is a little harsh. If I ever get a round tuit I'll post another thread with the results.

Last edited by Kelly2001; 07-27-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2012, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly2001 View Post
Popping in the exhaust is usually fresh air getting in there, either from the emissions air injection system (as designed,) or a leak in the header crush gasket. I'm not saying you're not a little lean, but a rich mixture with an exhaust leak is the worst case for popping. If you are able to start up easily without a lot of choke, your mid-range throttle settings don't produce any hesitation at cruise, WOT acceleration is smooth, and you're plugs are a tan color without many white deposits, then you are very close. That being said, I'm probably going to go up one size on my stock mains because I don't like the transition from cruise to closed throttle (or vice versa)- I think the jerk is a little harsh. If I ever get a round tuit I'll post another thread with the results.
I guess I should have listed I do have an ear-shave done, and the bike is coastered. All that emissions unhappiness removed. Prior to the ear-shave I was able to get the popping to stop by adjusting the idle-mixture screw, but post-ear-shave it's been a constant. I've re-seated the carbs, and replace the exhaust gasket just-in-case. I really think the idle jets being 40s are too small, seeing as everywhere I've read 42 is suggested for sea-level.

The bike needs choke to start in the mornings, but it will start without it as long as you keep the throttle up above 1100rpm. It won't just start and idle on it's own in a cold morning without choke, so I don't think I'm running rich.

The plugs look decent, good tan. The bike feels good through the power band, but if i keep my idle mixture too lean it'll pop when i let off the throttle, as well as on decel. Only the front does that, which is a 140 or 141 main, so I am thinking the main jet was too lean, on top of the lean pilot jet.

We'll see after my fiddling today I guess. Hoping the impeller is a quick thing because I know the carbs will fight me. :P

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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Well I went ahead and got everything taken apart. Here's a basic procedure rundown.

- Place bike on the center stand
- Drain the oil
- Drain the coolant (I took off the hose from the engine block)
- Remove RH exhaust
- Remove RH driver pedal assembly
- Remove plastic radiator cover
- Remove bottom-left (facing the bike from the front) bolt holding the raditor onto the subframe
- Remove the 4 allen-key screws, and two bolts securing the subframe, remove it
- Use paper or cardboard and sketch out the RH side cover. Mark each bolt location, and make holes for each. As you remove the bolts, place them in the corresponding place so they are not misplaced.
- Remove the bolts around the perimeter of the RH side cover.
- Remove the two bolts in the middle of the side cover
- Gently tap on the side cover with a rubber mallet, and use the pry point at the top-center of the cover to remove the cover. Remove it strait out.
- As you're pulling the cover out, wiggle the metal hose free from the engine casing. Mind the two rubber washers.
- Remove and clean off any remaining old gasket.
- Note the two gasket guides. I put them back on the engine-side.

This is where I got. My impeller doesn't look too bad, but my clutch pressure plate has tons of stress cracks. I have an offer in on one on eBay as I don't trust the current one. I'll continue removing the impeller and mechanical seal this week. I'm considering getting some clutch plates/springs while I'm in here, and doing the anti-coffee-grinder mod to the clutch-hub.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2012, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Continued work today, but I was sadly stopped short on re-assembly. I didn't have a 28mm socket (or pipe with that ID) to seat the mechanical seal. Continued from last time..

- Remove bolt in front of the impeller.
- Gently pry the impeller off. I used two equal sized large flat head screwdrivers on either side of the impeller. Take care not to damage the engine casing.
- Remove the o-ring that is now exposed under the impeller. It will most likely be pliable, so you can pinch it and it should allow you to grab it with needle-nose.
- Remove the spring part of the mechanical seal
- Gently pry the outer ring of the mechanical seal out of the engine casing. I used two two small pry bars, and a soft mallet. I gently tapped the small pry bars under the seal on either side, and pried it out gently.
- Clean the area the mechanical seal was removed from.
- Install the new mechanical seal by seating it into place with a 28mm socket. Do so with care!

I also installed the new clutch pressure plate. Super easy.. just removing the 5 bolts/springs, and replacing everything the same way it came off. I inspected my clutch plates and they are looking good.

I'll grab the correct socket tomorrow and I should be able to button everything up. Sweet deal!

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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