How to Create an MCCT using a Set Screw
There are two good DIY ways to convert the ACCT to MCCT. Both methods cost less than a cocktail.
Way #1. Buy a new hex cap screw, nuts, and washers. Throw away the old rod, bushing, spring, and internal washer. Use the new bolt instead of the old rod, replacing a moving assembly with a fixed bolt adjusted to tension. Cost: about $6/ea. Info here
Way #2. Install a set screw in the housing to hold the rod in place. The pressure of the set screw is applied directly on the rod and held by friction. Throw away the old spring. Cost: about $1/ea, or $10 total if you need to buy a tap too.
Both methods cheat the original design. They rely on the strength of the housing, which may be a fatal flaw. Way #1 seems safer in that regard; Way #2 is probably catastrophic to your engine if anything comes loose while you're riding (i.e., the cam chain will lose all tension and potentially tear up the cam).
I chose way #2, here's why...
* Fewer parts to swap out & match, lower cost
* Looks better. Uses original cap screw. The only visible difference is a cool looking set screw in the CCT housing
* No messing with washers or leaking oil, new washers/rings, etc.
* Seems easy to adjust from the road
* Requires permanent modification (drilling and tapping housing)
* Housing strength is unknown. Set screw could strip out, leading to engine damage.
Ok, so here we go!
Photo album here.
#10-24 x 1/2" Cap Screws (2)
Optional, if you don't have the right tap already:
#10-24 tap + #25 drill bit combo
Step 1 - Remove ACCT assembly
As others have said, you will need to bend a metal tab connected to the oil line. I accomplished this with needle nose pliers.
Step 2 - Disassemble
Notice that the spring is set aside. You will need all the other parts.
At this point you may be wondering what the set screw will hold in place. The smooth part of that long internal rod will be in direct contact with the end of the set screw when we're done.
Step 3 - Drill and Tap
First, drill a hole in the housing. Something in the middle will work. After drilling, use the tap to thread the hole. I used a lock wrench for my tap.
Your set screw will now screw in and out with no resistance.
If I were to do mine again, I'd go a little more on top because I had trouble getting my socket on the acorn nut without removing the set screw on installation.
Step 4 - Install and Caliberate
You'll need a screwdriver that can fit that rod in the assembly.
a. Re-install the whole thing, keeping the set screw loose. Don't worry about that oil line tab.
b. Go get an allen wrench. Tighten the set screw down against the tension rod until hand tight, then get your allen wrench in place. You're going to need it to tighten down the tension rod after getting it in place.
c. Adjust the tension rod to about half way. Expect to hear clacking when you fire the bike up.
d. Fire up the bike.
e. Use the screwdriver to adjust until clacking goes away. Being that this is my first time, I had to tighten it down much farther than I imagined before the clacking stopped. Don't be afraid to tighten "through" the clacking, and you'll hear it go away. You have to hold this in place, and you'll feel it in your screwdriver hand even though you can no longer hear a "clack".
f. When you find a point where the clacking stops, keep holding the screwdriver in place. Use your free hand and allen wrench to tighten the set screw. When the set screw snugs up against the rod and is tight enough, you won't feel the chain pushing against your screwdriver hand anymore.
Step 5 - Your Story
Come back here and tell us your story with a final pic
I want to give a huge THANK YOU to everyone who helped and came before me. I feel like I have a new bike.
for the inspiration.