ACCT advice? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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ACCT advice?

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone can help me decide what my next course of action should be to fix my ACCT.

Just got done trying the Grambo Trick on my ACCT, but it didn't work. Nothing felt stuck. I did feel spring resistance as I turned the rod, but I don't know what a healthy spring feels like. The rod turned with moderate pressure.

After Grambo didn't work, I started the engine with the main upper ACCT housing bolt removed and was able to observe the movement of the inner threaded rod. The clacking sound definitely coincides with the rod winding up against the spring and then releasing back to its resting position repeatedly. Is this movement normal, or should the rod be relatively stationary?

If I simply hold a flathead screwdriver against the rod with light pressure, I can stop the movement and the clacking sound goes away. I guess that's essentially what an MCCT would do.

Does this indicate that I need to replace the ACCT spring? I found the TOC Manufacturing rebuild kit and confirmed they are still selling it.

If I do replace the ACCT spring, what level of mechanical knowledge do I need? Oil leaked from the bottom ACCT when I tried Grambo on it. I assume I should drain the oil first if I remove the ACCTs to replace the springs. I also read through the moonmist instructions (found in Wayback machine), but I don't know how to position pistons. That sounds over my current skill level.

Sorry for my lack of terminology and THANK YOU to anyone who can help me navigate through this. It's the only thing wrong with an otherwise perfect sled

Edit: for anyone interested in DIY MCCT, this thread seems to be the best info. If you want to buy an MCCT kit, TOC Manufacturing is where you go.

Last edited by benallfree; 05-09-2012 at 03:05 PM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 02:46 PM
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I am 100% in favor of moving to manual tensioners made by TOC. Replacing the springs is pretty pointless, and commonly doesn't solve the issue.

They're worth the $100, and real easy to install.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
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Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 02:54 PM
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I am gonna have to do this soon myself. The motor sounds too slap happy for my comfort. I am wondering, to replace the ACCT behind the coolant res, will I need to drain it or can it be repositioned for easier access?

Thanks

I only understand what I don't understand.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thtanner View Post
I am 100% in favor of moving to manual tensioners made by TOC. Replacing the springs is pretty pointless, and commonly doesn't solve the issue.

They're worth the $100, and real easy to install.
Wow thanks for the quick reply!

Any reason not to buy a bolt (search for thread #17917, I can't post URL's yet).

Do I need to worry about piston positions, draining oil, etc?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazblu82 View Post
I am gonna have to do this soon myself. The motor sounds too slap happy for my comfort. I am wondering, to replace the ACCT behind the coolant res, will I need to drain it or can it be repositioned for easier access?

Thanks
No need to drain coolant. I was able to remove the res and reposition. It's a little awkward but not bad.

Last edited by benallfree; 05-09-2012 at 03:00 PM.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benallfree View Post
No need to drain coolant. I was able to remove the res and reposition. It's a little awkward but not bad.
Nice! Thanks.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benallfree View Post
Wow thanks for the quick reply!

Any reason not to buy a bolt (search for thread #17917, I can't post URL's yet).

Do I need to worry about piston positions, draining oil, etc?
There is no need to position the pistons, and there is no need to drain the oil. The rear tensioner will dripple a little, but very little. The TOC MCCT's are easy to install.

~~C8>
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZCraggRatt View Post
There is no need to position the pistons, and there is no need to drain the oil. The rear tensioner will dripple a little, but very little. The TOC MCCT's are easy to install.

~~C8>
Sounds like a winner to me. Gotta save first to get the TOC's, but should be well worth the wait.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blazblu82 View Post
Sounds like a winner to me. Gotta save first to get the TOC's, but should be well worth the wait.
Another option is to drill a hole and use a set screw. No replacing anything, just adding a set screw.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 03:23 PM
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I heard many successful stories with rebuilding the ACCT's to MCCT's with a few items purchased from your local Home Improvement Center. I purchased and installed the TOC MCCT's for the engineering comfort level.

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