oil change newbie - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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oil change newbie

gonna attempt my first oil change this weekend.. anything i need to look out for??
whats the going opinion on best oil and filter?? do i need a special filter wrench or will a basic oil filter wrench work?

Pittsburgh Dave
2001 VN750...old ride
2003 VN1600.. new ride
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 02:10 PM
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I standard filter wrench will work. Regards on oil type: Everyone has a different preference, I use conventional Castrol GTX 10w-40. If there is a sale on another oil, i'll use that but generally you want to pick one oil and STICK with it cuz of the additives in the oil.

As far as procedure: You can do a search on here, there is a thread that has a very detailed step by step list. If you know which way loosens a bolt, and which way tightens a bolt you will have no problem if you just follow the steps.

I always use 4.0 qts, and its just at the full mark, some guys say theirs is full with 3.5 qts so keep an eye on that.

1986 Vn750
18,800 miles, and counting
Bone Stock
New cam chain tentioners
all fluids changed
Spline Lube
Engine Guard
B-stone S11 RWL-stock sizes
New grips

2001 Vn750
13,100 miles, and counting
spline lube
Bridgestone S11 100/90
Shinko 170/80
rear end oil change
aftermarket mirrors
otherwise all stock
*anticipated mods*
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 03:24 PM
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I went to Wal-Mart. First thing I bought was Rotella T 15w-40. Do not buy a 30 weight. It has some energy saving stuff in it that is not good for a motorcycle. I also bought a Boosh 3323 long distance oil filter. It is longer then the standard oil filter on the bike. Also bought a oil filter wrench. Now when you go to change your oil, let your bike run a good 5 min. That is to warm up the oil in your bike. Make it come out of your bike a little easier. You don't want old oil in your bike mixing with your new oil. First loosen your oil fill cap, then take off the drain plug. There is a spring a metal o ring and a metal mesh type filter inside. I hade to reach in with my finger to pull all this out. Check and clean the metal mesh filter. You will notice small metal flakes on it. Just make sure there are not too many. Put your bike on the side kick stand so it tilts. Let it all the oil drain out. I held my bike a little more to the side then the kick stand does. The bike is a little heavy, so DO NOT DROP YOUR BIKE!!! LOL!!! When the oil is all drain out,put all the stuff back in. Start with the metal mesh filter,then the metal o ring then the spring and last the drain plug. Next take thing to do is get aluminum foil. Put it on your stator that is under your filter. Make sure it is covered all over. Then take off your filter. Next what you would want to do is fill your filter with the new oil. This might take about 15 min. Keep checking the filter when you fill it until all oil is absorbed in the paper of the filter. Put the new oil filled filter on. Next you want to put your bike on the center stand. Make sure the ground you are on is level. Sit next to the bike so you can see the oil level glass. Now fill the bike with oil watching the glass. The you should eventually see the oil level start to fill the glass. Fill it till there is a little bubble left in the glass. Now screw on your oil fill cap. Start the bike and let it run. You might notice that your oil light stays on. DON'T PANIC. All you do is get your oil filter wrench and loosen your oil filter until a couple drips of oil comes out of the filter. Make sure your bike is still running during this,and make sure your aluminum foil is still on the stator. Now as soon as a couple drips come out of the filter,tighten the filter back up. The oil light now should have gone out. let the bike run a minute or so after that. Shut of the bike and wait a minute. Now, check your oil level in the oil level glass. Fill the oil until it is full in the glass. Run again about a minute. The check one last time. Make sure your bike is still on center ground,and on center stand. Once you done this, your are now done. Hope this helps a bit.

2002 Vulcan 750
V&H Pipes
K&N Air Filter
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Green Led Night Lights
Shinko 230 Tour Master Tires
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 05:05 PM
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Please read and follow the oil change procedure as mentioned in the first response to your posting as there maybe some confusion after reading the steps mentioned by others. This can be found by doing a simple search. The step by step outline will answer any and all your questions. Also remember that your bike will need between 3.5 and 4 quarts of oil. It is much easier to be a little short and added to it than to drain oil when over filled. As mentioned, it is a good idea to warm up the oil before draining and always give the bike time to sufficiently drain fully. My waiting time was used to do some good cleaning of the lower end of the bike that was missed all too often. It also gives you a chance to look for small leaks, check cable ties and electrical connections which also get overlooked. It is a very easy proccedure and an excellent way to get a better understanding of your machine. Good luck.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

Vulcan 2000
New ride: 2009 Victory Vision Arlen Ness Signature Series
4507 miles
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-03-2012, 09:16 PM
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Here is Harvey birdman`s oil change thread with pictures:


1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15

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