2001 VN750 Problems dying when Idling - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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2001 VN750 Problems dying when Idling

So my VN750 had an issue last week where I rode it for about 10 minutes or so, and hit several stop lights and stop signs, with no problems idling. Everything sounded fine. After about 20 minutes of riding and after I got off at an exit by my house, I was sitting at the light and the bike just died on me. I was low on gas, but not empty by any means. I pulled off of the road, fearing the worst.

I got it started back up with minimal issue, but then as soon as I got riding and came to a stop again, it would die. Hell, even before stopping, if I just let off the throttle preparing to stop, the engine would cut off as soon as I let off the throttle. It got to the point where I had to choose my roads to get home wisely because if I would have gotten stuck on a hill at a stop light and it dies, someone might hit me from behind while i'm trying to start the engine back up. I made it home, the bike has been covered up all week. I went outside tonight and it started up like a champ and idled just fine...it was almost as if it didn't have an issue until the engine got warmed up or something, which is odd. Any suggestions on what to check or do?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 07:04 PM
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search the forum for POOGS syndrome (Phantom Out Of Gas Syndrome) caused by a blocked fuel vent hose.

If that isn't the cause, I would throw some seafoam in the fuel tank and run it and see if that helps. Sounds like it could be a carb issue or a fuel issue.

What are the RPM's during idle? it should be around 1100RPM at idle. If the knob on the left side is set for too low at idle this might be a cause for a stalling engine as well.

I am no expert, but those are some things I would start with until one of the more knowledgeable guys on here chimes in with suggestions.

Good luck! let us know what you find.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 08:28 PM
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POOGS link, diagnosis and cure: https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17572

If you don`t have a good Maintenance Free AGM battery and NGK Iridium DPR7EIX-9 spark plugs yet, change them out and see if that helps the hot starts. It usually does.

Good quality MF-AGM battery from Deka:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deka-ETX15L-..._Parts&vxp=mtr

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Purchased May 16, 2008
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 08:59 AM
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Dying at a stop sounds like an idle- pilot jet issue, but would not rule out sticky/bad clutch lever and kickstand switch.

Are you in gear when you stop?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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What are the RPM's during idle? it should be around 1100RPM at idle. If the knob on the left side is set for too low at idle this might be a cause for a stalling engine as well.
- I thought it might be the idle being set too low as well, but I checked last night and it was fine, it is set around 1100 RPM at idle. I started the bike last night no problem and let it run for about 5 minutes or so, I didn't ride it, just had it running and every once in a while I put some throttle on and let off to see if it would die on me like before, but it was fine.

Are you in gear when you stop?
- Yes, I was in 1st gear when stopped.

I read somewhere online that someone with a similar issue had used the choke to get the bike started (which is what I had to do) and didn't have it turned all the way off once they started riding so it began dying on them when idling as well. I started the bike without using the choke last night, and it seemed to run fine. I guess the only true test would be to ride it this weekend relatively close to the house for about 10-15 minutes (even just doing laps around the neighborhood) and see if it dies on me again. I could have just not had the choke turned off all the way.

I read the links you posted on POOGS. I put gas into the tank after it was stalling because I thought maybe it was just because it was low on gas, but upon switching to reserve, it still did the same thing when idling. I got new gas and it still was doing it, but I was able to make it home (It was about 1 1/2 miles from the gas station to the house).

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 09:49 AM
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I think I'd check those two switches, the one on the clutch lever and the one on the sidestand.

Be a good idea to check your battery terminals and ground wire for tightness.

POOGS usually happens while your riding, not when you come to a stop and never happens on a full tank.

Try stopping in neutral and see if that makes a difference. Possible your clutch is out of adjustment?

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 03:19 PM
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All good suggestions but is it possible that there is an air leak somewhere and when the bike comes down to idle there's too much air and not enough gas so she dies. It only happens when the motor is hot which could be a warp in the manifolds that the carbs sit on. Just a thought

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 05:13 PM
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I would get rid of those switches anyway, they are known to corrode and fail on all bikes. I remove them from all my bikes after having a couple fail out on the road. They serve no purpose for an experienced rider. But I don't believe they are the problem in your case, because if they were bad (either one or both) the engine would die at any speed, not just idle. An air leak is possible, but unlikely if it runs good other than at idle. To check and make sure, start the bike and let it idle until it gets hot (the fan will come on) then take an unlit propane torch with the valve about halfway open, and hold it around the carbs and manifold. If there is the slightest air leak, it will suck in the propane and the idle speed will go way up fast.

I suspect it is a problem with some part of the idle circuit, or, the throttle and or cables could be sticking slightly. You may have the idle set to low, but the throttle is not quite closing some of the time, so it keeps idling. Once in a while it will close all the way, letting the idle speed drop too low. I have encountered that on more than one bike. Thoroughly lubricate the throttle assembly, the cables, and the linkage on the carbs. The throttle should snap back hard when released, with no binding of any kind. You should easily be able to hear it snap closed. Then you can set the idle speed.

Not suggesting you do this, But I removed the "push" cable on mine, the one that connects to the back on the bottom of the throttle housing. Now when the throttle is moved, only one cable has to move in it's housing. It resulted in much smoother throttle feel, the "pull" cable opens the throttle, and the spring on the carb closes it. If the cable breaks, the spring should immediately close the throttle. If the cable breaks and binds in the housing (which could happen with two cables just as easily) the kill switch is just under your left thumb.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
I would get rid of those switches anyway, they are known to corrode and fail on all bikes. I remove them from all my bikes after having a couple fail out on the road. They serve no purpose for an experienced rider. But I don't believe they are the problem in your case, because if they were bad (either one or both) the engine would die at any speed, not just idle. An air leak is possible, but unlikely if it runs good other than at idle. To check and make sure, start the bike and let it idle until it gets hot (the fan will come on) then take an unlit propane torch with the valve about halfway open, and hold it around the carbs and manifold. If there is the slightest air leak, it will suck in the propane and the idle speed will go way up fast.

I suspect it is a problem with some part of the idle circuit, or, the throttle and or cables could be sticking slightly. You may have the idle set to low, but the throttle is not quite closing some of the time, so it keeps idling. Once in a while it will close all the way, letting the idle speed drop too low. I have encountered that on more than one bike. Thoroughly lubricate the throttle assembly, the cables, and the linkage on the carbs. The throttle should snap back hard when released, with no binding of any kind. You should easily be able to hear it snap closed. Then you can set the idle speed.

Not suggesting you do this, But I removed the "push" cable on mine, the one that connects to the back on the bottom of the throttle housing. Now when the throttle is moved, only one cable has to move in it's housing. It resulted in much smoother throttle feel, the "pull" cable opens the throttle, and the spring on the carb closes it. If the cable breaks, the spring should immediately close the throttle. If the cable breaks and binds in the housing (which could happen with two cables just as easily) the kill switch is just under your left thumb.
IIRC, your opinion on the safety switches has been debated on this foum previously. I would suppose that following your logic, riders don't need to wear safety gear if they don't plan on having an accident. Old dog is probably one of the most experienced riders on this forum, yet he thinks the accident that totaled his VN750 was due to a sidestand that wasn't fully retracted.

While having a single cable break and bind in the housing, it's much less likely that it would bind with another cable pulling it as well as the spring. Cables do not suddenly fail; it happens a strand at a time. Good luck with finding the kill switch under your left thumb.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
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Currently 23,298 miles

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
IIRC, your opinion on the safety switches has been debated on this foum previously. I would suppose that following your logic, riders don't need to wear safety gear if they don't plan on having an accident. Old dog is probably one of the most experienced riders on this forum, yet he thinks the accident that totaled his VN750 was due to a sidestand that wasn't fully retracted.

While having a single cable break and bind in the housing, it's much less likely that it would bind with another cable pulling it as well as the spring. Cables do not suddenly fail; it happens a strand at a time. Good luck with finding the kill switch under your left thumb.
he ment the "horn" as he gets out of control honking the horn

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